tank overflow prevention?

[cwickham]

hey

i use ball-valves to limit the return from my main tank to the sump. I adjust the level of the tank so that the return is completely under water to reduce micro bubbles and noise.

The problem is that if the power goes out and the tank level drops, air gets into those pipes and when the power comes back on, the air gets trapped at the ball-valve and limits the flow even more cause my tank to overflow if im not there to release the air.

is there any way around this, is there somthing that will shut my return pump off when the water gets to a certain level(just for emergency if im not home)

i have tryed to find a normally open float switch to make somthing, but can only find normally closed ones.

thanks for your help
craig

[superduperwesman]

If it's just one return with a ball valve then you are crazy... you'll always have problems even if the power doesn't go out. Any small thing that partially blocks the ball valve will cause your tank to over flow. If you want to have a valve on the the drain to reduce noise you'll need a back up drain

[Todd]

You want a herbie overflow system. Doing this with only one drain is asking for a flood.

You could get around this by hooking up your return to a float stitch and then inverting the operation of the float switch (or inverting the switch itself I guess). But still would not be as good as a herbie system would be.

[wickedfrags]

Why not just leave the ball valve all the way open???

If you are concerned about the level of water in your sump, you can create a siphon break by drilling a small hole in the return line, about 1/4" to 1/2" below the level of your water. This will allow air into the return system faster, resulting in more water staying in your tank and less being directed to the sump.

Also, avoid using ball valves to regulate water flow, that is what gate valves are designed for. Ball valves should be open or closed.

Originally Posted by cwickham

hey

i use ball-valves to limit the return from my main tank to the sump. I adjust the level of the tank so that the return is completely under water to reduce micro bubbles and noise.

The problem is that if the power goes out and the tank level drops, air gets into those pipes and when the power comes back on, the air gets trapped at the ball-valve and limits the flow even more cause my tank to overflow if im not there to release the air.

is there any way around this, is there somthing that will shut my return pump off when the water gets to a certain level(just for emergency if im not home)

i have tryed to find a normally open float switch to make somthing, but can only find normally closed ones.

thanks for your help
craig

[Skimmerking]

Originally Posted by cwickham

hey

i use ball-valves to limit the return from my main tank to the sump. I adjust the level of the tank so that the return is completely under water to reduce micro bubbles and noise.

The problem is that if the power goes out and the tank level drops, air gets into those pipes and when the power comes back on, the air gets trapped at the ball-valve and limits the flow even more cause my tank to overflow if im not there to release the air.

is there any way around this, is there somthing that will shut my return pump off when the water gets to a certain level(just for emergency if im not home)

i have tryed to find a normally open float switch to make somthing, but can only find normally closed ones.

thanks for your help
craig

Craig its really easy to sort out here keep your plumbing the same way open your ball valve full open.
what you need to do is drill a small hole in your return pipe just above the water line in your tank. This is going to allow you to back siphon the water once it reaches the water line so make the hole just below the water line then the pump goes off the water will drain only to the pipe with the hole. SUPER EASY

[mark]

Sounding like a Herbie without the emergency back up (probably not the best idea).

Guess I can't understand why the air would be trapped, but could it be how the valve is orientated, could the valve be relocated.

[Parker]

I'd take the ball valve off the drain side and put it on the return side ( after the pump ) if you want to limit the flow.

[cwickham]

that would work, but id like to keep the same amount of flow, just reduce how fast it flows from the main tank to the sump

[Parker]

You would be keeping the same amount of flow. Your tank will only drain as fast as your pumping water into it ( to the flow limits of your drains ). I'm assuming you are running your return pump wide open? If you are your present drain is able to keep up with it even though it's restricted. The amount of water your return pump moves won't change.

[superduperwesman]

Originally Posted by wickedfrags.com

Why not just leave the ball valve all the way open???

I think he wants to minimize noise

Originally Posted by wickedfrags.com

If you are concerned about the level of water in your sump, you can create a siphon break by drilling a small hole in the return line, about 1/4" to 1/2" below the level of your water. This will allow air into the return system faster, resulting in more water staying in your tank and less being directed to the sump.

His problem seems to be too much water in the tank?? So much so that it's overflowing... so I don't think he wants "more water staying in the tank.

Originally Posted by wickedfrags.com

Also, avoid using ball valves to regulate water flow, that is what gate valves are designed for. Ball valves should be open or closed.

I wouldn't say that gate valves are design for flow control... but yes they will do a better job then a ball valve in this application