RO/di machine headache

[Craigdillman]

i have the dial cranked as tight as it can go for the flow restrictor,

Tank is 150g total water and also there is pressurized drinking water container attached that we use for drinking so its probably pretty used

[Craigdillman]

tap TDS is 250

[Craigdillman]

Thanks for the help guys I'm going to tackle the rest of this tomorrow (with a bomb and get a real unit for once lol )



Cheers

[Myka]

Ok, good luck.

If you end up buying a new unit, Vertex makes an RO only unit (for a good price too!) that you could hook up to your DI cartridges. It comes with filters and a membrane.

[Craigdillman]

Ok thanks Yea was looking at the vertex ones or one from Bulk reef supply they do a RO only one as well

[Myka]

Originally Posted by Craigdillman

Ok thanks Yea was looking at the vertex ones or one from Bulk reef supply they do a RO only one as well

Ya but then you pay shipping and exchange which is like 35% right now if you pay with a credit card. Buy Canadian!

[hillegom]

Check your plumbing, paying attention to where the flow restricter and the output RO is coming form
Maybe the flow restrictor is toast. Take it offline and blow through it when it is dialed closed
Found a diagram: Not affiliated to me or anyone I know, just reference
http://www.watergeneral.com/support/...struction2.pdf

[mike31154]

Might be an idea to have a look at the drinking water pressure tank part of your system to make sure that's not causing you all the grief. Perhaps bypass it if you can & see what happens. I don't have anything like that on my system, so don't know anything about how they plumb in, might be a red herring. It does add complexity though & more things to go awry. Personally for drinking water, I simply bypass the DI stage when I do a water production run & deliver the 1st 6 gallons of water to a standard water cooler jug. This has a side benefit of ensuring that when I do open the valve to the DI stage, I know the RO from the membrane is as low as it will get. Short production runs are hard on a RODI system & filling the drinking water pressure tank could be considered a short production run. It will take a few minutes for the RO output TDS to drop to optimum based on your tap TDS.

[mike31154]

Just had a quick look at the system via the link you provided.

http://www.aquasafecanada.com/maximu...-instructions/

OMG, if that's your system it's way complicated, what with the pressure tank & "remineralization" stage! So many things that can go south in something that complex. I assume you have one or multiple valves that allow you to bypass the pressure tank when you're making DI water for your fish tank? Page 12 of the instructions you linked to mention that a change in the factory set 7 psi of the pressure tank air bladder can cause the Auto Shut Off Valve (ASV) to malfunction. Something else to look at. Again, personally, quite a while back I completely removed the ASV from my system. Once I started thinking about how the system worked and the fact that I don't use a pressure tank nor a float valve in my water reservoir, the ASV was obviously redundant, so the choice to take it out was a no brainer. Besides, when my system was new & I tried to use a float valve, the waste water never did shut off completely, couldn't get the ASV to function as advertised no how. Now that it's gone, I also get better pressure at the membrane. Of course you need the ASV in there as long as the pressure tank is there as well. Anyhow, still might be an idea to troubleshoot your system by completely isolating the pressure tank circuit & without the ASV if that's not too much of a hassle.

[mike31154]

Originally Posted by Craigdillman

i have the dial cranked as tight as it can go for the flow restrictor,

Tank is 150g total water and also there is pressurized drinking water container attached that we use for drinking so its probably pretty used

How long have you had the dial on the flow restrictor cranked all the way in? I'm assuming that there is still some water coming through the waste line?