#1
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Brightwell bio brick
Thought I would show people this new product I got from brightwell it's called a bio brick.
Here a write up from brightwell Xport Bioplate is a new biomedia product from Brightwell Aquatics which can satisfy the most demanding needs for biological filtration. We’ve seen this form of molded biomedia products for years but Brightwell has actually been perfecting the ‘recipe’ for this loaf of biologically active surface area for many years now. The new Brightwell Xport Bioplates are ceramic bricks with a huge surface area due to a huge concentration of microscopic and nano sized pores. The total surface area of each Xport Bioplate is upwards of 97,000 square feet that brightwell claims can treat up to 1,250 gallons of aquarium water each. So the brick got a quick ro rinse, then doped in a large zip lock bag full of tank water and aquaforest pro bio s (bacteria source) over night. Next day it was placed in sump on egg crate stand so top 1/4 inch or so is exposed to air. Last step is adding a slow water source over the top. More pics Most of this info of propper use came straight from the owner of brightwell aquatics thanks to jess 😀 my brick has been in my new system for about a week I'm hoping it will help create a healthy environment with minimal live rock. Right now nitrates in system are 0 and phosphates are anywhere between .02-.07 I'll keep everyone updated on how this works out. |
#2
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I didn't realise it was actually the size of a brick.
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#3
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what did it cost roughly?
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150 gallon reef mostly softies/lps. 50 gal sump with bubble magnus skimmer/ Led fuge light/refugium/ 1200 return and tunze powerheads. Dual pharoah main tank led.4 pump dosser. 550 gallon stingray tank water drip system 150 bowfront. 75 turtle tank, many others |
#4
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I have it fully submerged in my tank and it has been doing wonders. NO3 went from 10 plus to 2 ppm in less than 2 weeks. These blocks are embedded with sulfur hence the dramatic reduction in NO3. I got another one coming from JL aquatics as they will be carrying it. Great product, would recommend anyone who has trouble keeping their NO3 down to give it a try.
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Though a tree grow ever so high, the falling leaves return to the root. 300DD - 140DD TOTM Fall 2013 |
#5
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I think JL will have them around 50-60 bucks
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Though a tree grow ever so high, the falling leaves return to the root. 300DD - 140DD TOTM Fall 2013 |
#6
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Rich the no3 brick is embedded with sulfur not the bio brick not sure what yours is. Mine was 36 american if I remember correctly.
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#7
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not on j and l website yet
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150 gallon reef mostly softies/lps. 50 gal sump with bubble magnus skimmer/ Led fuge light/refugium/ 1200 return and tunze powerheads. Dual pharoah main tank led.4 pump dosser. 550 gallon stingray tank water drip system 150 bowfront. 75 turtle tank, many others |
#8
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website says this
You can use more bricks than the capacity shown above. You can't have too much filtration, the bacterial growth will be self limiting. It is prudent to use a whole brick even in smaller systems down to about 50 U.S. gallons. If the system is smaller than that, then use the cubes instead. For nitrification, or removal of ammonia and nitrite, employing the brick aerobically, or above the water line will provide maximum results. To do this, mount the brick in air, above the water level, and run a small stream of water through the brick. It is not necessary or desirable to run the whole flow of the main system pump through the brick. A flow of about 40 to 80 liters per hour is ideal. An adjustable flow control will allow you to adjust the water flow to only that which will flow through (and not around) the brick. On the other hand, removing nitrate is an anaerobic process and limiting oxygen to the brick as much as possible will maximize the nitrate removal. In this case, mount the brick beneath the water surface in the sump in a very low flow area, if possible. To use one brick for both aerobic nitrification and anaerobic denitrification, mount the brick below the water surface and provide medium flow around it. The bacteria growing in the top 1/4" of the surface of the brick will be aerobic and will use up all the oxygen so that the inside of the brick goes anoxic or anaerobic. Anaerobic denitrifying bacteria will then colonize the internal surfaces of the brick and you will get both nitrification on the surface and denitrification in the internal parts. While the BIO Brick will perform both nitrification and denitrification, if your need is primarily for denitrification, you should purchase the NO3 Brick instead or in addition. One important criteria in marine systems is gas exchange. Xport is the best bacterial media in the world, but it is not good at gas exchange. Bio balls are the best for gas exchange, so any system will work better with a small stack of bio balls placed in the main flow (in air).
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150 gallon reef mostly softies/lps. 50 gal sump with bubble magnus skimmer/ Led fuge light/refugium/ 1200 return and tunze powerheads. Dual pharoah main tank led.4 pump dosser. 550 gallon stingray tank water drip system 150 bowfront. 75 turtle tank, many others |
#9
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Wow this is a much better explanation thanks dino
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#10
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Help my brick is crumbling apart? I guess I'll try to contact JL to see if they can help
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150 gallon reef mostly softies/lps. 50 gal sump with bubble magnus skimmer/ Led fuge light/refugium/ 1200 return and tunze powerheads. Dual pharoah main tank led.4 pump dosser. 550 gallon stingray tank water drip system 150 bowfront. 75 turtle tank, many others |