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  #41  
Old 02-14-2012, 07:56 AM
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I run two heaters on my 165g. Not sure why so many heaters are in your sump. That's waaaaay overkill.
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  #42  
Old 02-14-2012, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaHorse_Fanatic View Post
I run two heaters on my 165g. Not sure why so many heaters are in your sump. That's waaaaay overkill.
There is redundancy here, yes, but I'm not running them all, just the 200 watters.
The 2 x 250w heaters are backups on a Ranco, just in case the main heater circuit craps out due to either a Reefkeeper failure, or a Heater failure tripping the GFCI.
As for the 3 x 200w heaters; I prefer smaller heaters rather than large ones that can go haywire and cook things. I feel 3 x 150w just wouldn't cut it as it can sometimes hit 68F in our Livingroom.
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  #43  
Old 02-16-2012, 12:45 AM
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Just ordered the Reefkeeper Elite, some switches and a Hub. I received a decent offer from a member for used, but for the cost difference, new it is.
Time to get some more plumbing done.
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  #44  
Old 02-16-2012, 12:48 AM
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cant wait to see more pics!
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  #45  
Old 02-16-2012, 08:36 AM
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OK, more pics, but only 'cause you asked
I wasted half my night on the phone with 2 members ... 2 1/2 hours talkin' 'bout reef stuff. Not that there is anything wrong with that, but, trying to be polite while doin' plumbing is difficult.
So ... here is what I got done tonight.
And because we can't edit our posts, I have to post new pics of where I'm at;

I re-arranged the drain plumbing under the tank. I still want to brace the main drain line to alleviate any stress from the bulkhead while I'm crankin' the valve. Only issue is I haven't found a chunk of something to stuff in there yet (see second pic to understand space between pipes and wood).



I got the lines run to the sump ( on the right you see my SW holding tank with it's outlet valve )


I had to re-arrange the heaters as the drain lines interfered with their locations, so this is where we're at now


It's kinda hard to see in the last pic, but that's my skimmer stand. It's reflecting off the back glass.
The wife used to work with stained glass, so I used her glass grinder to round out the upper corners of the gussets to let the bubbles out.
Maybe tomorrow I'll get enough done to glue the pipes and do a water test.
I still have to plumb the DT pump before that happens. After that there is the Sump pump with it's circuit of 2 x reactors, UV/Chiller and Chaeto.

Last edited by gregzz4; 02-16-2012 at 08:43 AM.
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  #46  
Old 02-16-2012, 12:52 PM
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Looking good dude! I see what you mean with the heaters can never be too careful
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  #47  
Old 02-16-2012, 03:27 PM
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Keep those pictures coming. I love how everything is setup up so cleanly. Great work. Gives me plenty of ideas for my tank.
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  #48  
Old 02-16-2012, 09:15 PM
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Thanks guys.
Since the rock is still cooking, I'm being overly fussy. I think I spent 2 hours just on the drains under the tank
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  #49  
Old 02-16-2012, 11:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregzz4 View Post
Thanks guys.
Since the rock is still cooking, I'm being overly fussy. I think I spent 2 hours just on the drains under the tank

Thats totally the way to go though... Do it right the first time, and make it look nice so you don't look at it every day and want to rip it apart.

Very nice progress, I'm glad to see someone else doing a sump room build thread with detailed pictures. I'm about to start mine and already you have given me a bunch of awesome ideas.. Keep up the good work!

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  #50  
Old 02-22-2012, 10:34 AM
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Makin' some headway now. Got the plumbing to the sump tested and re-done. Had water running through the DT for the first time.



Think I'm happy with the overflow levels and such. Still can't adjust the sump level until all the rest of the gear is plumbed in, but it's a start.
I added an extra return valve for feeding/pictures and it's working out great.
I've started to play with the Herbie overflow levels, and think I'm happy with where the levels are to start with. I have a Gate Valve that I haven't used yet on the return line, a True Union Ball valve on the bypass and a Ball valve for a shut-off. I think this will cover it.
The main drain inside the overflow is about 6" tall with a 3/4" strainer on top of it and the emergency is about 2-1/4" from the DT level, minus the strainer. It's all good for now with the testing.

Got the light mounted and holeeeeeeee is it ever briiiiigggghhhhttttttt.
And right here I'll give a shout out to viper901 for sellin' me such a great light


Good thing I modded it.
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82405
If I could not control the 8 bulbs there might be an issue

I changed the eggcrate overflow thingy and though you all might like to see this. There's no noise as it's above the water line.


More pictures to come when I plumb the next circuit.
This will involve the chiller, uv, chaeto and 2 reactors.
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