tools for resealing a tank.

calgaryreefer · #1 04-12-2010, 08:46 PM

Anyone an expert in resiliconing tanks?

is there specific tools that will make this job easier and what kind of silicone did everyone use, i was told the GE silicone I is a safe choice.

thanks.

Delphinus · #2 04-12-2010, 08:57 PM

Copious amount of razor blades... elbow grease, and a dashing of swearing to keep you sane as you go.

I've used clear Silicone I for sump baffles and it yellowed on me after a week or so. Structurally it was OK and chemically but it looked bad.

I understand that tank builders use GE1200, GE RVT100 or GE IS800 silicones. I found all 3 to be substantially difficult to find. Bow Valley will sell you a tube or two of GE1200 for about $10/tube. Check also with the folks at Red Coral because they may have something onhand as well.

Werbo · #3 04-12-2010, 09:39 PM

Is this a total strip down and rebuild? If it is just a re-seal then:

Take the top trim off. Clean the glass throughly via razor blade. Get any loose silicone off. Very time consuming.

Corners - use masking tape 1/2 inch or so away in the corners and a plastic spoon to smooth out the silicone. Remove the tape immediately after so the tape and silicone does not dry together.

I used GE Type 1 silicone and have had no discoloring (1 year later now)

calgaryreefer · #4 04-12-2010, 09:59 PM

Nope, not a total rebuild, just want to remove the old and dirty corner silicone and reapply a new layer on it, I read that this layer is the water proof layer and the layer in between the glass is structural, I was wondering if there is a tool, a corner or 90 degree chisel that i can just use and scrape off that layer??

Werbo · #5 04-12-2010, 10:27 PM

IMO you do not need to remove all the silicone from the corner. Remove the silicone that is tattered and has come loose. Then run your masking tape a mm or 2 from the old outside edge of silicone and re-silicone right over.

Use the plastic spoon to give your corner a nice look and then remove the tape.

I'd do the 4 corners let them dry and then do the bottom (if needed).

Wingin It · #6 04-12-2010, 11:11 PM

I use a wood chisel...it's sharp and straight and doesn't break. It strips the old silicone off like butter!

#7 04-12-2010, 11:24 PM

IMO remove all the silicone as you can not guarantee that the new silicone will ad hear to the old stuff properly.
3M has some new silicone it is clear and is marine grade says that it is safe for aquariums so the next one I do will have this silicone. The yellow is from the skin that forms on the silicone reacting with waist in the water. What I normally do is silicone Waite 48 hours put water in tank and let sit for a day and then empty it there will be a slimy skin on the silicone and if you remove the skin there should be no yellowing. If you can get black silicone I would use that and any discoloring you would not be able to see.
You can get a corner tool from Home Depot it is a red plastic tool with a white rubber rounded blade. also use masking tape in the vertical corners this will give it a nice clean look apply the silicone then remove the tape do the bottom to side corners right after you remove the tape that way all surfaces bond as one piece and while you are at it if you have a black trim you can re silicone that also. I just run a putty knife along the outside edge and then lift off the black trim, you just have to be carefully to not break the plastic. When lifting the trim off move your hands down so where the trim and top edge of the tank meets is not to far apart this helps keep the trim from breaking.

Bill

brizzo · #8 04-13-2010, 12:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bvlester

IMO remove all the silicone as you can not guarantee that the new silicone will ad hear to the old stuff properly.

Technically speaking, silicone will not adhere to cured silicone.

Stick with GE1200 construction silicone if you can find it local, it's much nicer to work with than GE Type 1 Door/Window silicone.

PS: Use acetone or similar solvent to make sure the glass is absolutely clean and free of contaminates like oil from your fingers.

hillegom · #9 04-13-2010, 01:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nazerine

Technically speaking, silicone will not adhere to cured silicone.

Stick with GE1200 construction silicone if you can find it local, it's much nicer to work with than GE Type 1 Door/Window silicone.

PS: Use acetone or similar solvent to make sure the glass is absolutely clean and free of contaminates like oil from your fingers.

I used methyl hydrate to clean the glass before applying new silicone. Not as volatile as acetone. Don't know if its better though