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  #81  
Old 04-02-2014, 10:43 PM
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OH EM GEE guys! Are we really going to do this again?? LOL
  #82  
Old 04-02-2014, 10:50 PM
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Here is a quick video on Par levels for 250w 400w and Led. perhaps the position of the sensor was not placed properly but if you view other videos the same results come up

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVCUr...t=HL1396478548

From coral and reef 2014 "Riddle (2007) refers to a most interesting experiment with staghorn corals Arcopora austera that was exposed to different light intensities. In values 100 to 350 PAR (umol/m/sec) the corals turned brown from about 350 to 800 PAR the corals turned bright mauve. When the UV- protective filter of the metal halide Lamp was removed at 300 PAR the coral shifted from brown to bright green.

You will need a lot of halides Xenon

Last edited by Bugger; 04-02-2014 at 10:53 PM.
  #83  
Old 04-02-2014, 11:02 PM
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not tryin to be a *** but if your worried about PAR so much why not just go with some sort of hybrid I get over 1200 at the surface of my tank with the ATI Hybrid Powermodule.

Just my 2 cents
  #84  
Old 04-04-2014, 02:54 AM
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LEDs really are nice but I am confused as to how an LED fixture can have so much trouble.

Its seems if corals are at one level in the tank all is well but as soon as you get sps at varying depth its tougher to keep color. What burns SPS at the top, browns out lower colonies yet the ones in the middle do well.

I find it odd that MH and T5HO doesnt have this happen like with LED.

If the Mytras or Hydras were as reliable as a good ol 250 HWI with a Phoenix bulb and a reef brite for actinic or an 8 bulb TEK I would be sold. But as it is on my next build I will look for 2x 250W HQI pendants or an 8 bulb T5HO fixture. I dont want to spend big money on LED just to end up with the problems most people are having.

On a side not I was on RC classifieds the other night. Only 1 or 2 MH or T5 fixtures but there sure was alot of LED fixtures for sale on there. Could alot more people be having these problems?
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  #85  
Old 04-04-2014, 03:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan View Post
LEDs really are nice but I am confused as to how an LED fixture can have so much trouble.

Its seems if corals are at one level in the tank all is well but as soon as you get sps at varying depth its tougher to keep color. What burns SPS at the top, browns out lower colonies yet the ones in the middle do well.

I find it odd that MH and T5HO doesnt have this happen like with LED.

If the Mytras or Hydras were as reliable as a good ol 250 HWI with a Phoenix bulb and a reef brite for actinic or an 8 bulb TEK I would be sold. But as it is on my next build I will look for 2x 250W HQI pendants or an 8 bulb T5HO fixture. I dont want to spend big money on LED just to end up with the problems most people are having.

On a side not I was on RC classifieds the other night. Only 1 or 2 MH or T5 fixtures but there sure was alot of LED fixtures for sale on there. Could alot more people be having these problems?
Might I suggest this thread
  #86  
Old 04-13-2014, 12:36 AM
denny_C denny_C is offline
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figured i would post some more pics


enjoy!!


cheers


denny


















  #87  
Old 04-13-2014, 12:38 AM
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  #88  
Old 04-13-2014, 12:41 AM
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  #89  
Old 04-13-2014, 12:42 AM
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  #90  
Old 08-05-2014, 09:45 PM
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ok so its been a while and time for an update


some changes have been made to the tank in the last few months , i have added a 1" sandbed mainly because keeping 30 sq/ft of bb clean was becoming an OCD nightmare lol

ive also removed the bio pellets and have now switiched over to vinegar which has given me much better results and is far less aggressive and precise.


have added a few fish over the last while but nothing too crazy as well some more corals.

i was battling some aiptasia and added a file fish ,demolished aiptasia but well he eats just about all corals too so i guess ill have to live without adding any highend zoas to the tank lol


ill post some pics here shortly as well a small video of the tank once they finish loading


cheers

denny
 


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