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  #71  
Old 03-13-2009, 07:41 PM
Treebeard Treebeard is offline
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Thanks Kevin. If I am in town on the weekend I will pick some up.
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  #72  
Old 03-13-2009, 11:29 PM
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I switched to H2O from Tropic Marin Pro because of supply problems and have been pretty happy with it but where TMP mixed up totally clean, H2O leaves a yellow-brown slime.
Any ideas what it's from?
Also for what it's worth H2O takes about 1 lb. more per 50 gals to get the same salinity.
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110g mangrove refug/sump
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  #73  
Old 03-13-2009, 11:59 PM
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i just drop a powerhead in there with a heater and let it mix overnight in the bucket and i find that the residual that i use to get is almost all gone. And yes when mix 5 gallons of water to the seachems i use to use 2 and half to 3 cups and i find with the h20 i have to use 3 cup-ish to get 1.025.
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  #74  
Old 03-16-2009, 02:08 PM
Stuart Bertram D-D Stuart Bertram D-D is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pescador View Post
I switched to H2O from Tropic Marin Pro because of supply problems and have been pretty happy with it but where TMP mixed up totally clean, H2O leaves a yellow-brown slime.
Any ideas what it's from?
Also for what it's worth H2O takes about 1 lb. more per 50 gals to get the same salinity.
The brown deposit that you are describing is actually composed of small amounts of insoluble material, mostly ferric oxide which is added to the salt with one of boosting additives and is completely inert. In fact it has the potential to act as a flocculent, binding any soluble organic polymers and orthophosphate so that it can be easily removed by the skimmer thus contributing to the quality of the water.

As people have commented negatively on the aesthetics of this occasional deposit we have now changed the supply of the additive so that this is no longer present.

As far as the mix ratio is concerned - the actual mix should be 39.6g / lt whereas a check that we made with some Tropic Marine Pro required 41.2g / lt to give the same salinity.

Remember that the mix is done by weight/volume of water and so to measure in cups per gallon is very rough as it depends on how dry the salt is and how fine/compacted it is.

The correct mix according to my calculation is 1lb of salt to 3.025 US gallons of water to get a salinity of 35.5ppt or an SG at 25C of 1.025.

Remember that the most important thing is how good the tank looks and how healthy the corals appear to be. Do not fall into the trap of the pilot who flies into a mountain because his instruments tell him he is high enough to miss it - use your eyes and observe the differences in your tank.

Cheers

Stuart
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  #75  
Old 03-16-2009, 03:53 PM
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Aquatic Addictions Aquatic Addictions is offline
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We carry the H2O salt and have been extremely impressed with it to the point that I have even changed the store into using it as the only salt for our tanks. Cost wise it may be more but when you factor in having less losses and happier fish and corals...I wouldnt go back.

Of course we carry other brands as there is no changing everyone until they see the difference for themselves

Dan
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  #76  
Old 03-16-2009, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stuart Bertram D-D View Post
The brown deposit that you are describing is actually composed of small amounts of insoluble material, mostly ferric oxide which is added to the salt with one of boosting additives and is completely inert. In fact it has the potential to act as a flocculent, binding any soluble organic polymers and orthophosphate so that it can be easily removed by the skimmer thus contributing to the quality of the water.

As people have commented negatively on the aesthetics of this occasional deposit we have now changed the supply of the additive so that this is no longer present.

As far as the mix ratio is concerned - the actual mix should be 39.6g / lt whereas a check that we made with some Tropic Marine Pro required 41.2g / lt to give the same salinity.

Remember that the mix is done by weight/volume of water and so to measure in cups per gallon is very rough as it depends on how dry the salt is and how fine/compacted it is.

The correct mix according to my calculation is 1lb of salt to 3.025 US gallons of water to get a salinity of 35.5ppt or an SG at 25C of 1.025.

Remember that the most important thing is how good the tank looks and how healthy the corals appear to be. Do not fall into the trap of the pilot who flies into a mountain because his instruments tell him he is high enough to miss it - use your eyes and observe the differences in your tank.

Cheers

Stuart
Thanks for the great reply, you answered all my questions. And my tank is looking great.
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  #77  
Old 03-16-2009, 07:29 PM
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Wow lots of great info in this thread, I'm going to switch over from Instant ocean to H2O.
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  #78  
Old 03-16-2009, 09:45 PM
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cav~firez22 cav~firez22 is offline
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I made the switch. running my 135 & red sea on it. Colors of corals are awesome. Of course im using Zeo too
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  #79  
Old 05-18-2009, 10:30 AM
TonyR TonyR is offline
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Ive been using H20 for about a year now and my corals always respond well after a water change.Coral colours became richer,especially the reds.
I was a pleasantly suprised that i was able to use the salt without any calcium,Alk or magnesium additions as i had to previously with another well known salt.
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  #80  
Old 08-07-2010, 01:35 AM
patpare patpare is offline
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I know,I know this is an old thread but i'm thinking of switching salt from Reefer's best to this H2o salt.Reason is i can get H2o localy and the Reefer's best i have to order.
So i wanna know if everyone is still happy with this salt.
Thank you
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