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  #41  
Old 11-15-2012, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro View Post
Mike, based on all your info, I'm as good as dead
with your wiring skills, you should have been dead years ago

Steve
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  #42  
Old 11-15-2012, 01:38 PM
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You could also use an inline heater.
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  #43  
Old 11-15-2012, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by burgerchow View Post
Ok, I'm no electronics guy, but if there was a short in the tank and the water is "live"' wouldn't the fish be dead first, before you get shocked?

That clearly wouldnt happen, the fish arent grounded. Its like birds landing on power wires, no death, but if they where to contact 2 wires at the same time....poof, cooked bird.
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  #44  
Old 11-15-2012, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MitchM View Post
Mike, depending on how easy access you have to your plumbing and if you have a controller on your aquarium, you could run a small coil of PEX into your sump and plumb in a home hot water line using a recirc pump.
A guy over on RC did this successfully.
Yeah, thanks for that info. I actually read that thread the other day. There've been similar projects over the years, even some where people did the opposite, trying to cool their tanks with coils of piping submerged in the sump, then run underground aka geothermal. Seems like you need to be careful with that kind of set up lest you cook your system by not siziing the thermal mass properly. Can get complicated.

If I ever get my basement sump thing started I may consider something like that. A couple of years ago I tiled the floor at my living room bay window & put electrical heating under the tile. I've been considering putting a run of that under the next project. That is, build a stand, put electrical heating on the surface where the tank will sit, then some nice granite tile. Set the tank on that (and/or sump) & voila, under tank heating. Just not sure if the weight of the tank would be an issue in possibly crushing the wiring below eventually.

But again, I digress. Stay safe with the 'lectrics. Ditch those electric float switches that run your ATO & go with gravity feed & mechanical float valve.
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  #45  
Old 11-15-2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StirCrazy View Post
with your wiring skills, you should have been dead years ago

Steve
Zactly! That's why I don't take these threads very seriously. I zap myself once a month, minimum. My family knows not to be within 3 feet of me when I have any type of wiring in my hand lol
I did get careless and start a fire, but that was contained and the sloppiness corrected. Sort of.
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  #46  
Old 11-15-2012, 03:48 PM
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Might not be a bad idea with a smaller tank Mike, the only problems I could think of are; The system breaks, you then have to move the tank to repair it OR the heater develops a hot spot, which in turn creates a temperature differential in your glass possibly shattering it.

Having granite tile under the tank would help prevent the second one by heat distribution.

You also then lack the monitoring capacity of a heater, you do get those nasty wires out of your tank though!
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  #47  
Old 11-15-2012, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike31154 View Post
Ditch those electric float switches that run your ATO & go with gravity feed & mechanical float valve.
Would not most of those be 12v such as the Osmolator.

Totally agree in keeping the heater head above water. Something I have done for many years. Only use Ebo and my policy has been to replace them after a couple years with a new one.
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  #48  
Old 11-15-2012, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug View Post
Would not most of those be 12v such as the Osmolator.
Yes, you are correct. I'm getting a bit anal. Low voltage is fine, but I've seen some DIYs where folks are wiring electric float switches with 120 VAC running thru them.
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  #49  
Old 11-15-2012, 04:22 PM
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Oh ya. I have seen some duzzies over time. And built by lfs to boot. I know this as I owned one many years ago.
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