Scott's 270g aka Project Mayhem

[Myka]

Haha! Are you trying out the new Tropic Marin salt?

[Scythanith]

Yep, and I expressed concerns with Colby about the extra "carbon source" but he assured me it wasn't in a quantity that would affect my tank. And to be fair, the cyan was growing before I started the new salt.

The thing I was a little surprised at was that the salt was crusty when I opened it. I have to dig away at the salt to make up new salt water.

[sphelps]

FYI I had cyano after my summer neglect, 100% gone within a few days after I started dosing zeobak and zeofood7 again. Didn't even have the reactor up at the time. I suspect the zeovit cyano clean will also be quite effective. Something to consider I guess.

[Myka]

I never had any luck with any Zeovit products or MB7 against Cyano. ChemiClean works like a hot damn. I haven't had any issues using it in reef tank, but "mseepman" reported some coral loss in his tank recently during treatment.

Originally Posted by Scythanith

Mindy, in the business of tank maintenance?

Holy! News travels fast! It's not even official yet.

Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz.

[Scythanith]

Haahaa that was a shot in the dark! I guess it worked. I had no idea you were looking to get into it. We must talk PM me if you're really looking for clientele.

[Myka]

Pretty good shot in the dark! I sent PM in SaskReef.

Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz.

[mr.wilson]

You might be better off running the Abyzz pump as an external. They run pretty cool so there isn't much heat transfer, but even at low amperage, that's 400v in saltwater you are exposed to. I use larger Banjo brand all stainless clamps. I'm using silicone hose, but would use braided in the future as it is less likely to split or cut.



The carbon dosing is definitely the cause of the cyanobacteria. I would discontinue it and use erythromycin phosphate (250mg/10 gal x two doses, two days apart). Red Slime remover switched to a non-phosphate erythromycin and it doesn't appear to work anymore. There's more phosphate in a single tank feeding, so it's a non-issue. Remember to turn off skimmer, o3, UV, and chemical media. Turn skimmer on conservatively over a 3-5 day period as carbon removed the E.M.

Turning down the white lights and relying on blue light will not stress the corals too much and help fight the red slime.

I use a small brine shrimp net and a baster to physically remove as much red slime as possible, as it is toxic as it dies off.

[Scythanith]

The system is design for internal pumps, so that's not going to change. The pumps are connected to an in service box GFCI breaker. If there isa ground they are kicked out in a millisecond. I'm not worried about the juice in the water. I have some new pure titanium worm gear hose clamps that will go on today. Hopefully that will alleviate all my concerns about corrosion and the pumps blowing off the silicone connectors.

I still am unsure as to what I am going to do with my reactors. Cyanobacteria by nature is a nitrogen fixer, so why would I remove the bio-pellets, which are a harbour for bacteria that consumer nitrogen and phosphates? Should I try and start from scratch as Mr. Wilson suggests? Take the BP off-line and sort out the issue in the tank, then maybe bring the bio-pellets back online with new pellets in the machine?

I am going to go do some netting and siphoning for now.

[Myka]

Well just how much cyano do you have? Post some pics?

Sent from my Dungeon using mad Ninja Skillz.

[Scythanith]

Here are some quick shots. They aren't all corrected, unsharpened, bla bla bla but you get the idea!















Here is what came in the mail while I was gone.