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  #11  
Old 06-07-2013, 02:05 PM
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Is this how yours looks? If you notice, the holes in the plywood are much bigger than the bulkhead nut. Allowing for access, maintenance, and a tight fit to the glass.




If this is what you have done and its still leaking, then go for a sch80 bulkhead.
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  #12  
Old 06-07-2013, 05:10 PM
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well according to that diagram i did it the bad way haha.. and its too late now to change it

Rogue951 the overflow box is drained and dried. as of right now i just have the display tank filled

i'll measure the hole and get back to you guys but i've also been directed to this http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/equi...head-tips.html
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  #13  
Old 06-07-2013, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dreadful View Post
well according to that diagram i did it the bad way haha.. and its too late now to change it

Rogue951 the overflow box is drained and dried. as of right now i just have the display tank filled

i'll measure the hole and get back to you guys but i've also been directed to this http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/equi...head-tips.html
even if you did it to the plywood the bulkhead should still work , the gasket has to be on the flange side always never the nut side, the seal is in the gasket not the nut, the nut just forces the seal.
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Old 06-07-2013, 05:36 PM
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haha i know that part at least.. wouldnt make sense at all the other way!
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  #15  
Old 06-07-2013, 05:48 PM
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Sch 80 all the way. Hayward makes some awesome PVC bulkheads and they are a little wider which would help your issue. They even have a "long" model and you can also get them with a wide flange if needed.

http://www.haywardflowcontrol.com/pr...1_21003__Y.htm

You could probably get them ordered in through a local pool company or just find a distributor off their website.
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  #16  
Old 06-07-2013, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reefwars View Post
even if you did it to the plywood the bulkhead should still work , the gasket has to be on the flange side always never the nut side, the seal is in the gasket not the nut, the nut just forces the seal.
Is it possible that the plywood is uneven enough to cause the gasket and fit on the glass side to be off a bit on one side, i.e. not flat against the glass?
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  #17  
Old 06-07-2013, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
Is it possible that the plywood is uneven enough to cause the gasket and fit on the glass side to be off a bit on one side, i.e. not flat against the glass?
Thats why I would never do this. You never know what imperfections that wood has on it. Not to mention he said he has tile in there too.

Tight against the glass would be the only way to do it IMO. Having the glass, tile, then wood is just poor planning.

I would honestly take it apart and do it properly. That would be just a disaster waiting to happen in the future with a quick fix. I think all of us who have been in this hobby for a long time would agree that temporary or quick fixes almost NEVER work out.
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  #18  
Old 06-07-2013, 06:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
Is it possible that the plywood is uneven enough to cause the gasket and fit on the glass side to be off a bit on one side, i.e. not flat against the glass?
that would be my guess is either the bulkhead is crooked to one side and a hole slightly too big or the gasket isnt flush to the glass, realistically the bulkhead only needs to be hand tight for the gasket to work properly provided the glass surface is clear and enough of the gasket catches the glass.
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  #19  
Old 06-07-2013, 06:20 PM
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If it is indeed not flush on the gasket side, I would also be worried about cracking the glass if tightened too much.
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  #20  
Old 06-07-2013, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reef Pilot View Post
If it is indeed not flush on the gasket side, I would also be worried about cracking the glass if tightened too much.
absolutely , same with on the plywood , being on plywood may make you think you can tighten more.

if this were my tank i would drain and restart....i enjopy sleeping at night lol:P
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