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#1
03-12-2013, 10:20 PM
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I found that the 1" durso was way to loud so I went with 1 1/2" and made all the difference in the world.
Stay clear..... this Bear bites off limbs!!
__________________
Feed the bear goodies, make a new friend, don't feed the bear............... 8' - 165gal Reef DIY LED's Build 2012 Nano Contest Winner Febuary 2013 POTM Winner 300 gal + 60 gal Complete DIY Build |
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#3
03-12-2013, 10:32 PM
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#4
03-12-2013, 10:38 PM
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I always put the gate valve at the pipe's end before it enters the sump chamber. it needs to control the sihpon properly and because the water throughout the pipe is pulling downwards I think it has to be at the sump.
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#5
03-12-2013, 10:42 PM
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Ok so what I have learned is this
drain 1 Durso style with balancing gate valve at sump? drain 2 = open acts as overflow You balance drain 1 until it stops sucking in air and drain 2 takes the excess water?  Last edited by Aqua-Digital; 03-12-2013 at 10:55 PM. |
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#6
03-09-2013, 05:09 PM
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Someone has been busy!
Sump plumbed to tank. The sump return line has been plumbed using 45 degrees bends to reduce the flow restriction of 90 degrees where possible. The two drain lines have a 5% drop so there are no real dead static points that could create issues. The return lines are now being wet tested prior to water pressure testing. The two canisters on the wall or for GFO and Carbon.     |
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#7
03-11-2013, 03:53 PM
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The tank is now half full (well nearly) the RO unit even though 100gpd is struggling due to the cold water going in, my water bill is going to be insane! I replaced the cartridges prior to filling to make sure the TDS was at 0
The sump looks cloudy due to force feeding the Marco rock chips, it has had a huge dose of bacteria courtesy of Prodibio StartUp.    |
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#8
03-11-2013, 04:15 PM
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Not to start a debate but I think I need to state a few things to prevent other readers from developing false concern regarding there tanks being improperly supported.
The support post is 100% not required, the advice given by your engineering friend may be partially accurate if the tank weight 10X what it does, but it doesn't. 1200lbs over two beams is not substantial, especially when the load is so close to not only the main engineered support beam but also the support posts underneath of it. You also have 3/4" hardwood that will run perpendicular to the joists adding substantial strength and stiffness to your floor. Our floors are already designed for both dead load and live load. 1200lbs is no where near the limit for dead load and additional live load wouldn't be affected. Lateral twisting would require a huge load off center to create a torsion moment, realistically it's not possible which is why no beams are ever connected from below. Also support posts should installed on piles to prevent movement, from an engineering point the post is doing more harm than good but realistically it's not doing anything close to worth it's value in steel. Just want people to know the full story and not be mislead thinking they need to add support posts under there tanks. Everything else looks awesome. |
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#9
03-11-2013, 07:28 PM
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Great looking setup Michael! I can't see I'm the pic but how does the water get into the far right section of your sump? The area with all the rubble.
__________________
225gal dt with 100g sump. Mitras, vortechs, bubble king, AI Sol and Profilux. http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...threadid=84782 Will trade subs for frags  My other summer hobby: http://www.edkra.ca |
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#10
03-11-2013, 07:33 PM
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Hybrid Mode
