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  #11  
Old 01-16-2012, 04:17 PM
molotov molotov is offline
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thanks for all the feedback. I just ordered a bunch of 3/4" and 1" spa-flex so hopefully it should be here this afternoon and I can continue with the plumbing.
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  #12  
Old 01-16-2012, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate View Post
For 1262's you can use a 3/4 male to female PVC piece . I then use a link of 3/4 spa flex to get rid of any vibration despite there being pretty much none.
Nate, the slip - threaded reducer you are talking about bottoms out in the pump well before it starts to tighten up. The short nipple I linked does tighten some so I feel would be a better seal.
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  #13  
Old 01-17-2012, 12:20 AM
Nate Nate is offline
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Use Teflon tape or cut off some threads works just fine on my last 5 installs of 1262's
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  #14  
Old 01-17-2012, 12:54 AM
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Where did you order the spa-flex from?
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  #15  
Old 01-17-2012, 03:56 AM
molotov molotov is offline
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Default Eheim Plumbing

So I received my spa-flex today. I order 3/4" and 1". The 3/4" is for my return and the 1" is for my overflow plumbing. As it turns out the 1" spa flex fits onto the barbed fitting quite well. I'll have to heat up the spa-flex before I put it over the barbed fitting on the pump. it's quite tight and I don't want to break the fitting on the pump but it's looking like it will fit quite nice.

For the person that asked where I ordered the spa-flex from, I ordered it from Western Pump. The pipe was cheaper than I thought. The price of a 10' section was about the same as a 10' rigid piece of pvc purchased from Rona. Shipping in town was only $20 so that was a no brainer as well.
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  #16  
Old 01-17-2012, 04:17 AM
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For such pumps I've always used rigid PVC pipe, whatever size is just slightly smaller than the barb diameter. Just heat up the pvc pipe with heat gun or whatever you have and force it around the barb, let it cool and you've got a solid connection but for internal sump use only.
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