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  #11  
Old 01-29-2011, 05:58 AM
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No reactors, no sump, no refuge.

Tank is well established. It was set up at our neighbors for 4 months then they moved it 4 doors down to our house. Been set up and doing really well for 13 months at our house.

Any hope for this little guy you think?


if its showing feeders then yes ive had brains come back from that state and worse, ive seen brains lose color like that alot as well....try moving it in to more direct light.how often do you feed it???

def invest in a test kit for alk and calcium ,with lps these two are very important.
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  #12  
Old 01-29-2011, 06:04 AM
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what are you using to test salinity? even with refractometer, make sure it is calibrate correctly. I learn that SG may be quite lower than what you read. So yours may be even lower than 1.022. Try slowly bring it up to 1.025-1.026.

i saw a similar one in tang daddy's tank. it is sitting in the sand bed but lot of direct light. i am not sure if his lights are 250W or not.
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  #13  
Old 01-29-2011, 06:09 AM
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Hard to tell with the pics being different, but it looks thinner in the second, and perhaps more zooxanthalae making it appear browner. Have you checked PO4? Are you using anything to remove phosphate? Any other corals browning out, or impeded growth? Maybe slow down on the feeding and make sure it gets as much light as you can give it.

As an FYI, I feed my LPS maybe twice a year, if I remember. I'm not sure what regular feeding might do to internal algae content..perhaps others might confirm/deny my thoughts on that.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:15 AM
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Yes, feeders are out. It takes to food very well. I usually get a turkey baster or a pair of long tweezers (depending on how pesky the other fish are) to feed it. Baster is less accurate I find.

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Old 01-29-2011, 06:19 AM
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As mentioned, ammonia should be undetectable. If you're using a hagen test kit, they can show 0.1 when it's really 0. I'd also slowly raise salinity to 1.26, this gives you proper Ca and Alk values (plus asst other ions)
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:23 AM
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Haven't tested for phosphates at all unless the LFS does when I take water in. I want to buy whatever kits I need so a list would be handy if one of you would be so kind.

I'm feeding it maybe once a week along with my hammer and trumpet. Hammer was really pale and washed out too but on the advice of my LFS guru, I moved it and it is growing very well. I had 2 heads and now have 6. Still not quite as vibrant as it was when I bought it but it seems happy just the same. It sends sweeping feeders out often. Pretty neat to watch.

Trumpet is doing really well too. I had to move it to give it more space. It's about 5x the size it was when I bought it.

I keep pulling Anthelia and Xenia out and putting it in the trash, it grows like weeds! GRRRR!

We've only had corals since last April. That's when I bought the current bulbs too. Our light cycle is usually about 7 am to 10 pm.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:30 AM
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With a reef, you should have at least Ca and Alk test kits. Maybe Magnesium. A properly functioning tank hardly ever needs to be tested for NH3/NO2/NO3, so I usually just take samples to the LFS if I'm curious. Get good kits, Salifert or Elos. A quality refractometer is important to keep your salinity at correct levels (which should be higher than what you currently run).
What lights were your corals under when you bought them? It may be that your's are significantly different, giving you these results. Also, most loss of vibrance in color is due to excess nutrients. A good skimmer and/or frequent water changes can help in that. Rinse frozen foods to remove any juices, which will be high in PO4. Make sure the corals get decent but indirect flow.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:42 AM
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Our water level is a bit low. We were going to top it up tomorrow so we can boost the SG a little bit right away. I'll move the brain up closer to the light while I'm in there too.

Food wise, the frozen we soak in vitamins in little shot glasses. We do 3-4 up in advance. We then rinse it well before putting it in the tank. We give pellets sometimes and nori almost daily (sometimes we forget in the evenings).

Yes, my ammonia test kit is a Hagen one.
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro View Post
With a reef, you should have at least Ca and Alk test kits. Maybe Magnesium. A properly functioning tank hardly ever needs to be tested for NH3/NO2/NO3, so I usually just take samples to the LFS if I'm curious. Get good kits, Salifert or Elos. A quality refractometer is important to keep your salinity at correct levels (which should be higher than what you currently run).
What lights were your corals under when you bought them? It may be that your's are significantly different, giving you these results. Also, most loss of vibrance in color is due to excess nutrients. A good skimmer and/or frequent water changes can help in that. Rinse frozen foods to remove any juices, which will be high in PO4. Make sure the corals get decent but indirect flow.


that is a whole wack load of good advice right there, and same here with me i know alot of people feed their brains but i never did only stray food it might have gotten from other things and my last brain outgrew my tank literally maybe tripled in size in less than a year.
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  #20  
Old 01-29-2011, 06:44 AM
reefwars reefwars is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScubaGirl View Post
Our water level is a bit low. We were going to top it up tomorrow so we can boost the SG a little bit right away. I'll move it up closer to the light while I'm in there too.

Food wise, the frozen we soak in vitamins in little shot glasses. We do 3-4 up in advance. We then rinse it well before putting it in the tank. We give pellets sometimes and nori almost daily (sometimes we forget in the evenings).

Yes, my ammonia test kit is a Hagen one.


boost your salinity very slowly you can drop it alot faster than you can raise it just boost ot slowly over a few days.
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