#11
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he is open to offers now that reread his post - so maybe offer him $60 for 2 and see what he says?
Also the ballasts are wired for 347v but are 120v capable so make sure you make that change before plugging that bad boy in. As for the reflectors - try em out as is and see how they are. There are diy reflector plans somewhere in a reef forum - if i find em i will pm you the link. a point was made that these are 400w lights which are going to eat a ton of electricity so that would be my primary concern if budget is an issue. |
#12
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I wouldn't call the reflectors junk. They are specifically designed to give an even light distribution from a pendant bulb, however, at a distance (they're meant for high bay applications after all). High bay reflectors are about efficiency AND economy. Aquariums really weren't in mind for their design. Because you will have them closer that their intended application there might be some bright spots but don't see any reason why, for a cheap set up, they wouldn't work.
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#13
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Quote:
The DE bulb is a pulse start one (there are only two main probes in it) and not fired by a capacitor or by a subprobe but by an ignitor. In your case, the ballasts built particularly for the coralife fixture have no ignitor in it. The ignitor is in the fixture. You can check by opening the metal box to take a look. If there is 3 items in it, then the smallest one with 3 wires ( usually green, yellow and red) attached to it is the ignitor. Otherwise you need to buy an ignitor (one for each ballast.) Most of the time, the ballast between 70-150 watt uses the same ignitor. Use the phase like "150 watt mh ignitor" to search on ebay or google. |
#14
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those are the same as we use at the dry dock. They're tough and give a pretty good light spreed. The bulbs are the just nomal mougle, just find the right K.
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120 G sps reef, looking to build bigger. |