The problem with having your controller control everything - Page 2

whatcaneyedo · #11 11-13-2014, 02:44 AM

Yes the Apex has Fallback statements that can be set for every outlet incase the power bar loses contact with the base unit. So that is all fine and dandy unless a problem happens with the power bar and not the base unit... or if anyone is using a DC8 (from the old AquaControllers) on their Apex.

kien · #12 11-13-2014, 02:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps

Can you not set initial state for the Apex power bars? I don't know much about the Apex just that it can be done with Profilux so something to check into. Seems like it would solve the problem. I also run one slave powerhead on completely separate circuit as a last resort back up.

2.3.2.2 Set inital states
If the Powerbar-PAB doesn’t receive commands anymore over a minute (e.g. since the bus has been interrupted, ProfiLux is switched off or is defective, …), the sockets of the Powerbar-PAB can be switched due to safety reasons into a predefined state (on or off). The initial state can be programmed separately for each socket. For example it can make sense to keep the filter switched on. On the other side it is better to switch off the heating in case of an error so that the aquarium is not overheated.

I've never had my Profilux fail but it's good to know that the power bars will behave this way. Unfortunately, the original poster doesn't doesn't use Profilux, he uses the Apex system by the sounds of it. Are they compatible ? I didn't think that they were.

Aquattro · #13 11-13-2014, 02:48 AM

Apex does provide for outlet condition in the event of failure. My pumps are set to fail on.

Aquattro · #14 11-13-2014, 02:50 AM

As already posted above

I would think it's as likely a manual timer fails as much as the actual power bar, so always a chance something goes. It's the life we live -lol

kien · #15 11-13-2014, 02:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquattro

As already posted above

I would think it's as likely a manual timer fails as much as the actual power bar, so always a chance something goes. It's the life we live -lol

Or better yet, the power in your house goes (for over 24 hours). I love those ones.

Aquattro · #16 11-13-2014, 02:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kien

Or better yet, the power in your house goes (for over 24 hours). I love those ones.

Or your city fills with water.

kien · #17 11-13-2014, 02:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquattro

Or your city fills with water.

Ya, that was also a fun one! This year I have bets on a winter blizzard (aka Snowpocalypse) taking out The Grid.

Coralgurl · #18 11-13-2014, 03:03 AM

I have an apex controller and all I have plugged into it is 1 heater. I have 3 other power bars and they are plugged to separate outlets. I don't understand the programming so it's useless to me. Oh it does tell me the temp and ph.

Snowpocolypse - nice one....

Aquattro · #19 11-13-2014, 04:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Coralgurl

I have an apex controller and all I have plugged into it is 1 heater. I have 3 other power bars and they are plugged to separate outlets. I don't understand the programming so it's useless to me. Oh it does tell me the temp and ph.

Snowpocolypse - nice one....

You have about a thousand hobbyists in town, recruit some for assistance! The heater code is no easier than most other code, so if you got that one, you can do the rest!

gregzz4 · #20 11-13-2014, 04:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Aquattro

You have about a thousand hobbyists in town, recruit some for assistance! The heater code is no easier than most other code, so if you got that one, you can do the rest!

Ya, put some faith in that expensive heater controller you bought !!

My RKE has all kinds of stuff, well everything, running my tank
But lots of critical stuff is set to fail on in case of a loss of signal from the head unit

All you can do is set it up as best you can and cross your fingers in case that 'one thing' happens
Otherwise, there's no point having a controller at all ...