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#1
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![]() Hey Bill
My 2 cents after 3 years of running a Herbie; I run my gate valve on my return pump, with a 'T' feeding it back into the sump. This allows me to bleed off the excess pump flow to the sump. Yes, I don't control the flow from the overflow, but rather I control the flow going to the returns. I've been running my system this way for 3-coming up on 4 years now and it works great for me. I did this in the first place because my return pump was overwhelming my drainage. My tank is too close in height to my sump. Ever since I started controlling my return flow life is good. So, to recap, instead of controlling your drain, control your return |
#2
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![]() [quote=gregzz4;971111]
instead of controlling your drain, control your return[/QUOTE Yup I have a gate valve on my return as well. Maybe i'll bring my water level up in my overflow so I have a trickle in my emergency. Just dont trust it as it's overflowed once before and I was assured that the emegency would handle it. The 2 emergency drains are teed in to one that drains in to the tank. I miss my Durso ![]() Thanks for all the suggestions guys |
#3
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![]() Kien brings up some really good points. My sumps have always been designed in a way that the water height where the overflow enters the sump doesn't fluctuate. I don't use socks either, I use a filter pad. I've always had my overflow under water in the sump.
I do occasionally adjust mine, maybe once every few weeks I have to dial it open a bit because I'm getting too much down the emergency, and it never fails that a few days later the main drain with the gate valve starts sucking air. I'm sure it's just a gob of something sitting on top of the gate valve. I know on my system, the gate valve is barely open at all. It seems like it's turned open a lot just by the number of turns, but when I remove it and look (it has a union above it) it's only open a fraction of the pipe diameter. Maybe that has something to do with it - that's been on a constant on my Herbie-plumbed tanks. Quote:
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