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#1
11-10-2015, 02:21 AM
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Quote:
 
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#2
11-10-2015, 02:39 AM
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So for those who've asked questions and/or offered to help me out with this little project here's everything I'm dealing with:
1st Gen controller: Front  Back:  Guts/Innards 
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#3
11-10-2015, 02:40 AM
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2nd Gen controller:
Front  back  Guts/Innards 
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#4
11-10-2015, 02:42 AM
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Pump. Connector from controller has 3 pins
front  back  sorry, no gut shots of the pump. I can get at the impeller but thats it. Pretty sure it'll all be encased in epoxy inside anyway...
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#5
11-10-2015, 03:27 AM
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You already have the MW power supply rated at 24 VDC, 8.8 amps. That's roughly 211 watts. The photo you posted of the pump specs shows a max of 170 watts. Have you tried hooking the power supply directly to the pump? Should work if you wish to run it at full speed. Just need to confirm polarity of the leads. The 3rd wire is no doubt feedback to the controller & not needed if running at full bore without control circuitry.
If you're handy with a soldering iron & really liked the way the 1st gen controller worked, try replacing the electrolytic capacitors on the board, the firecracker cans. Quite often these fail & render the rest of the electronics useless. Sometimes you can see the failure in the form of bulging at the top of the can. Many an expensive electronic component has been trashed due to failure of a few cheap capacitors in the power supply. They're only a few $$s each & worth a try to see if it will resurrect the original controller.
__________________
Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build  http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=82206
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#6
11-10-2015, 03:16 PM
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Or can I smoke something by just trial and error?
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#7
11-10-2015, 06:29 PM
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You can't run a dc pump directly off a regular power supply. The controller actually switches the coils in the pump on and off very rapidly in a pattern to get the magnet in the middle to spin. Without the controller the motor will make about half a revolution and stop. It is more like an a/c motor in that respect.
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#8
12-03-2015, 02:55 AM
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I have a project on the horizon that involves DUAL high current BLDC controller with integrated I2C control I understand the need of these manufacturers to "compact" these units to make it easier to hide, however my issue is with lack of cooling which in the end reduces overall life of the unit. My idea always been over engineer it and make sure that the unit can drive 5 to 10 times its normal workload. Would you not pay more money to know your never have to upgrade another controller ??
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#9
12-03-2015, 05:00 AM
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Lol, I haven't given up on the pump yet. I love the pumps. I love the original controller. But poor cooling, fan and bearing designs on the controller resulted in burnt out controllers.
I really want to know what the heck the difference is in the gen1 controllers and any of the next gens. I still have a brand new controller (gen1) and it easily pushes probably 1000 gph at 12' of head. Switch to the other controller...less than 2-300 gph. It's completely gutless. I've had one of the guys from Waveline tell me maybe the magnet has de-magnetized, they sent me new impellers. For some reason no one over there believes me that it is 100% the controller.
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#10
12-04-2015, 04:16 AM
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My plan is to use an integrated H bridge from ST.
It's the only simple alternative that supports 30A continuous duty at 600V for a sensor less BLDC application. The motor might be rated at 170W and 24V... with a bit of quick math 170/24=7.03A is actual draw. Now to actually further get into engineering we still don't know whatever its a Wye or Delta configuration of the windings inside the motor.
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