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#1
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Next wave the chicken in counter-clockwise circles around your tester. For the love of God DON'T go clockwise, that's big trouble. After you've done six complete rotations and 1 half rotation raise the chicken to the East. It has to be the East because the West is for Alk testing. Next put on a pair of non-latex powder-free rainforest friendly examination gloves, blue if you can find them. After you have the gloves on put the chicken in a brown burlap bag and place it in the corner of the room furthest away from your sump. Keep in mind this only works if you have more yellow fish than orange or blue. For blue fish the process is totally different. Once the bagged chicken is in the corner furthest from your sump you take the checker and spill some water in the middle of the pentagram on the floor. I forgot to mention the pentagram on the floor, draw it in orange or white chalk, white is a little easier to find and it tastes better in step 27. It goes on from here...
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I have to go out and buy more snails for my hermit crabs. |
#2
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Be sure the vial is always clean, inside and out. After the C2 comes on, note the exact time in seconds and pour the reagent into the vial, and swirl for almost the full 3 min. It is very important that all the powder is dissolved and no micro bubbles. Then insert, close, and hold the button until the 3 min timer shows on the display. If you just press and release, you will get a reading but it will not be accurate. After the 3 min counts down, you will get your reading. My Hanna checker readings are consistently accurate, and usually don't vary more than .01 when I have done more than one test. Before when I was using the color test kits, they would read zero while the Hanna would read .6 and higher. It is very hard to distinguish white, and a slight off white, and they always read too low. I use the Low Range Hanna Phosphate Checker, model HI 713 and reagents are HI 713-25.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#3
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I've been emptying my packets over a piece of paper now, seems easier than trying to get it all out of the little packet into the little vial without spilling any. |
#4
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I cut the packets and make a crease in them, to funnel the powder. I also use the scissors tips to open up the ends inside to be sure no powder stays trapped in there. Then I just hold the vial at a 45 degree angle (easy to over spill powder if held straight up) and tap in the powder from the funnel crease in the packet.
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#5
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I do notice how much of a difference a few micro bubbles can make, the difference between 0.05 and 0.00. One of the things I've done to make the readings easier is to use both vials included in the kit, fill both with tank water, then only put the reagent in one. I use the straight water one as the C1 blank. I find that the powder that comes with the phosphate kit dissolves so slowly that by the time it' completely dissolved and the micro bubbles are well and truly gone that the checker has turned itself off by the time I'm ready to go with C2 half the time. Am I making it less accurate that way? |
#6
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Reef Pilot's Undersea Oasis: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=102101 Frags FS: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...d.php?t=115022 Solutions are easy. The real difficulty lies in discovering the problem. |
#7
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![]() huh, wow! I had no idea that thing had a timer on it.
Well, it looks like I need the low range checker. 0.00 |