![]() |
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
![]() Kien.....Are your running Mitras? Last time i saw your tank....it was Mh/t5's.
![]() |
#2
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Quote:
As Brett said though, cameras can have a bitch of a time photographing LEDs. I've experienced this first hand (when I was tinkering with various LED units). Mind you, the LED pics you showed don't look terrible either. I'm sure they look a bit less purple/blue in person. |
#3
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() THe mitras fixture gives me light envy. I keep trying to figure out a way to justify the cost of switching from my radions...
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I do find it tough getting the right color with the leds. I have a Canon T3i, which I'm sure would have no problems taking the pics if I were to practice with it more.
In person the tank looked fine IMO, it was just lacking color/pop. I also think the coral is growing a bit quicker with the mh/t5. |
#5
|
||||
|
||||
![]() I do find it tough getting the right color with the leds. I have a Canon T3i, which I'm sure would have no problems taking the pics if I were to practice with it more.
Interesting statement. Kinda like saying, I have great pans, can't understand why my meals aren't much better - Only kiddin ![]() You need to shoot perpendicular to glass, on a tripod, high ISO (for faster shutter speed), and use a grey card (or something similar in shot) for manual white balance or an expodisc kind of device. You could also shoot raw and play with white balance if you have software to do so. Cheers, Harley www.harleycrossphotography.com |
#6
|
|||||
|
|||||
![]() Technically speaking I agree but without being able to adjust the peaks the broad spectrum within the white LEDs the results are not as good. I find CWs in particular to wash color out and replacing some of the output from them with a RGB setup makes a significant difference. In the LED world as far as the terminology goes white doesn't mean full spectrum.
|