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#1
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![]() Whoops, sorry, I shouldn't have assumed. My post would apply mostly to your 180g. A canister can work for a 55 g, but would need a different approach, which is a whole another subject. But again, some good reading on the web on how to make that work, too.
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#2
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![]() With that amount of nutrients in the tank and the way it is set up (canister filter, no sump) it is really going to take a lot of time and elbow grease. The "real" numbers are much higher than the ones the test kits are showing you because the algae is sucking quite a bit out of the water column in order to be growing so well.
I would also consider removing the sand bed and then replacing it with a new shallow sand bed after the nutrients are under control again. This will help speed things along because usually in high nutrient systems there is a lot trapped and absorbed into the substrate (and live rock, but I doubt you want to replace that haha). If you do remove the sand bed, look into this before you start as it can be dangerous if you don't do it right. Fyi, RowaPhos is GFO. GFO generally refers to any granular phosphate media that is reddish brown. |
#3
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Once your params are good and the algae is licked, then maybe go back to just nitrate and phosphate removing media in your canister. Along with your water changes, I would still vacuum the sand and make good use of a toothbrush and turkey baster until the detritus and algae are gone. Also would clean the primary sponge filter in your canister often to prevent build-up, esp with all your extra initial cleaning effort in your tank.
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#4
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I'm waiting for the lights to come on and I'll get working on the tank. Something else I didn't mention is there is a film on the surface water. I'm hoping that with the adjustments made to the skimmer (was overflowing) this surface film will start to clear up. Should I rearrange the power heads? |