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  #51  
Old 02-13-2013, 04:58 PM
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MY RO/DI unit has an Automatic Shut Off Valve, so shuts off the supply water when not in use and saves the membrane. Here is how it works. I have 2 pressure storage tanks, too, so always a good supply of RODI water on hand.


What is an ASOV and what does it do?
Automatic shut-off valve is a must. It saves water, extends filter life, and improves the performance of your unit. As the storage tank fills the pressure inside increases, when the pressure equals ½ to 2/3 your feed water pressure, the water to the system is shut off. No waste. Since you subtract the storage pressure from the operating pressure, the storage pressure needs be limited.
What is ASOV?

The automatic shut-off valve. This valve allows your system to turn off the water supply, using pressure from the pure water side of the system. Then the automatic shut-off valve will turn off the water supply to the unit,whenever there is sufficent pressure on the pure water side of your system.
ASOV - How it works?
The automatic shut off feature works this way. The pure water runs right to left or left to right across the top of the valve, the side with the screws visible. (The right or left depends on how you are viewing the unit) Then the filtered water runs right to left or left to right across the bottom of the valve. When the pressure on the pure water side of the system builds to 60% of your home water pressure a small piston is pushed down and closes off the supply water. The entire unit shuts down shortly. We offer LIFETIME replacement on that part. It is the only real moving part on the system. You need to see if the screws on top of the valve can be snugged up, if that does not cure any the noise we will send a new ASOV right out. System shuts off when the tank is full or the line from the reef line is shut off.
How to Install ASOV?
Looks very complex, but is really very simple. The water is simply traveling across the valve from left to right or right to left depends on how you look at it. Pure water travels across the top of the unit, the filtered water across the bottom. The valve has a top and a bottom. The top is the side with the (4) screws visible. The bottom has no visible screws and is marked in and out. The bottom of the valve is connected between the pre-filters and the membrane. Water from the pre-filters is directed to the ASOV(in). The filtered water continues from the out of the ASOV to the membrane end with only one connection, the membrane water inlet. So the bottom of this valve got in between the filters and the membrane. The top the side with the (4) screws connects across the pure water line, from the membrane pure water outlet. The pure water outlet of the membrane is on the membrane housing end with two connections. One connection goes to drain and the other is the pure water. The drain connection is not the one you want. Once you have located the pure water line, cut it and install the automatic shut off valve. Now the pure water path is interrupted by the ASOV as well.
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Last edited by Reef Pilot; 02-13-2013 at 05:01 PM.
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  #52  
Old 02-14-2013, 12:59 AM
reeferfulton reeferfulton is offline
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Saw a couple nasty worms while looking at the tank with the wife .
so i grabbed the rock and attempted to remove to with tweezers . they broke
turned out that they are just the simple bristle worm . sorry dudes .

Basically had a mini newb panick attack .. life goes on
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  #53  
Old 02-14-2013, 04:24 AM
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Just read through your build. It's Jon from Blueworld, we spoke a while ago when you were getting your roots here in town. Build is looking great so far. Looking forward to seeing it running!
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  #54  
Old 02-15-2013, 12:33 AM
reeferfulton reeferfulton is offline
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thanks Jon

Water in on feb 8
Shrimp on on Feb 9
Added 3 lbs live rock Feb 10
added 10lbs live rock feb 11

Also started dosing microbacter 7 on feb 11 . 5 caps each day . with skimmer off for following 4 hrs.

First shrimp is covered in a woolly coocon .

Did another water test today .. I think all params are still zero ,Ammonia may be up a wee bit , cant tell .

Feb 14. tossed in another raw shrimp ... what the heck lol
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  #55  
Old 02-15-2013, 12:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reeferfulton View Post
Also started dosing microbacter 7 on feb 11 . 5 caps each day . with skimmer off for following 4 hrs.
I know it says it in the instructions, but have never turned off the skimmer after dosing. And I dosed MB7 pretty heavily when I first started with bio pellets. My skimmer didn't act up, and the MB7 still always did its job. But I dose it directly into the display tank, not the sump.
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  #56  
Old 02-15-2013, 01:08 AM
madchild madchild is offline
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Those API test kits suck. Its ok for the cycle, but once you get past that, invest in better test kits.

I personally use the Red Sea ones since they've got reagent refills. Salifert and Elos are also really good.


MC
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  #57  
Old 02-15-2013, 01:16 AM
reeferfulton reeferfulton is offline
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thanks for the advice .
Ya i figured i would do some reading on what kits are best once i was done just my cycle ..

on antother note .

REading about this Microbacter 7 stuff.
It clearly says it keeps nitrite, nitrate and ammonia levels low . Can this affect my cycle ..

Guess i am trying to ask . if dosing this like reccommend and all that bacteria is working will i even see an Ammonia spike at all . I know i have die off on my transported LR. as well as i clearly have a rotting shrimp ..

Is this stuff so affective that i will test all zeros . then suddenly start seing Nitrates .

?
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  #58  
Old 02-16-2013, 10:36 PM
reeferfulton reeferfulton is offline
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ok
7 days in ,
I now have 2 rotting shrimp ..
Still all readings are zero .. or so close i cannot tell .

I have also been running my light now and my few peices of coral still look great .
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  #59  
Old 02-16-2013, 10:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reeferfulton View Post
ok
7 days in ,
I now have 2 rotting shrimp ..
Still all readings are zero .. or so close i cannot tell .

I have also been running my light now and my few peices of coral still look great .
Jon, sounds like your tank is moving in the right direction. Btw, your blue led strip can be better used over your tank... You may get a better enjoyment out if your tank and corals.
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  #60  
Old 02-16-2013, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madchild View Post
Those API test kits suck. Its ok for the cycle, but once you get past that, invest in better test kits.

I personally use the Red Sea ones since they've got reagent refills. Salifert and Elos are also really good.


MC
APIs don't "suck". Their ammonia and nitrite are really accurate and that's what any beginning tank needs to be tested. APIs nitrate are also good but not for lower ranges (below 10ppm). I even use their alkalinity and calcium and have never given me any "false" reading . Yes, may not be as accurate as expensive test kits but good enought o keep things in check.

But yes there are better kits and Salifert and Elos are always clear winners.
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