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mike31154 · #1 12-08-2008, 10:43 PM

Good info. I've used mainly the API test kit for my Ammonia readings but I do have a kit by Hagen/Nutrafin too. The colour chart on the booklet for the ammonia test on my kit shows yellow/lime green as being 0 ppm. There are two charts on the booklet, one for fresh & one for salt water. The sw one has the more lime colour as 0 so you should be ok with bright yellow unless they've changed the kit. Mine was aquired used and there's no best before date on the bottles.

Apologies if I raised ammonia alarm bells for nothing. Like you already suspect, more water flow will benefit the system and you'll also want to beef up the lighting to keep your anemone healthy. Any idea wha species of anemone you have? I have a BTA for my maroon clown pair and it doesn't look anything like the one in your photo so I suspect it's a different sort. Not good with nem ids myself, other than BTAs.

moldrik · #2 12-08-2008, 11:34 PM

Yeah, I'm not sure on the type of anemone, but from what I searched around, I think it's a type of BTA. I bought the anemone from a fellow canreefer.

I will say that the fish are moving a lot more now, I think they are just a bit scared and shy. I looked at the test and yeah, I was referencing the fresh water table, not the salt water. I must have misplaced the salt water test book *sigh*

Do you know where I can find the table by any chance? Also, when I think at it, even though the liquid was "clear" it was fairly foggy/opaqy. I have a horrible time describing things.
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herbal vaporizer

ElGuappo · #3 12-08-2008, 11:38 PM

just fyi but clownfish have been know to never go further than 12 inches away from there host. if you are concerned with them not swiming the lenth of the tank dont be. once they find a host they rarely venture very far away except to eat. this is what i have found with my t. purcula and what i have read.

moldrik · #4 12-08-2008, 11:43 PM

Cool, I'll keep that in mind when deciding what to put later in my tank.

Which brings me to the point that I'm upset that I got the turbo snails, because I didn't consider the fact that they would be mowing down the feather dusters that were previously ( and growing ) in the tank

If I had my way, again, I'd buy bumblebee ones or something of a similiar size..
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half-baked

mike31154 · #5 12-08-2008, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moldrik

Yeah, I'm not sure on the type of anemone, but from what I searched around, I think it's a type of BTA. I bought the anemone from a fellow canreefer.

I will say that the fish are moving a lot more now, I think they are just a bit scared and shy. I looked at the test and yeah, I was referencing the fresh water table, not the salt water. I must have misplaced the salt water test book *sigh*

Do you know where I can find the table by any chance? Also, when I think at it, even though the liquid was "clear" it was fairly foggy/opaqy. I have a horrible time describing things.

The booklet that comes with the kit I have has both tables side by side on the back page. There's only a slight difference on the two colour charts with the freshwater version being more yellow and the sw lime green. In any case, I'd say by your description, going by the chart I have, your ammonia is low to nil.

moldrik · #6 12-09-2008, 12:01 AM

That's great to hear Mike. I'm definately happier when I saw them leaving their anemone and moving around a bit. I had a bit of a scare there.
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Ducati Monster 695

ElGuappo · #7 12-08-2008, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by moldrik

This could be me being a dolt, but the nutrafin/hagen test comes out like a clear, bright yellow color. < 0.6

My tank is setup as follows:

Hydor Koralia #2 ( I do agree with you, i dont find that this gives enough water flow )

i have one of these in a 25 g tall. 24w x 24t x not sure deep. i am setting up and once it has cycled i will be adding at least a koralia 1 to up the flow. so cant see this being enough byitself in that tank.

Snaz · #8 12-13-2008, 06:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mike31154

And is that your heater laying in the bottom? I would advise getting the top of the heater out of the water. I know many are supposedly fully submersible, but I just don't trust that with my life.
.

That looks like a Visitherm Stealth Heater which according to my LFS is the only aquarium heater to be CSA approved as fully submersible. It has the CSA logo on the box and the box says "Fully Submersible". It's all plastic and does not have an "on" light, I really like mine. My tank is always 78*. Anyone use this heater?
Keith.

moldrik · #9 12-13-2008, 06:46 AM

It is that heater and it seems to work pretty well. The nem is opening up a bit and it looks a bit better. Maybe it just got cranky?

mike31154 · #10 12-13-2008, 02:52 PM

They'll do that from time to time, mostly after they've digested something they've been fed. It's kind of their way of regulating their internal chemistry and it may expel some waste when it does that. As long as it doesn't stay that way for more than a few hours, nothing to be alarmed about.