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	Bob ----------------------------------------------------- To be loved you have to be nice to people every day - To be hated you don't have to do squat. ---------Homer Simpson--------  | 
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			 ouch...this is going to hurt...turning on my brain 
		
	
		
		
		
		
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 I recently discovered first hand the T8's need more power to start and to operate than the T12's IMO. 
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	take pictures, leave footprints  | 
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			 Really.  Wow, and I thought the push for T8 was all supposed to be "green" and less energy consumption and all that.  Or is it just that the T8's have less Mercury or something then (which of course would be a good reason) 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			
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	-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee!  | 
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			 the bigest thing is a 32 watt T8 has the same light out put as a 40 watt T12. 
		
	
		
		
		
		
			so they are saving you 8 watts Steve 
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	 *everything said above is just my opinion, and may or may not reflect the views of this BBS, its Operators, and its Members. If cornered on any “opinion” I post I will totally deny having ever said this in a Court of Law…Unless I am the right one*Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive.  | 
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 I have the Advance REL-4P32-SC that Burnabyreefer had said to use in his original thread on overdriving. I believe these are true electronic ballasts. I am running both T12 and T8 bulbs, but not mixing them on the same ballast. I am currently (not a pun) running at 2X so I have 2 bulbs per ballast. So by removing one ballast and two bulbs I figure I could add one Workhorse 7 and 4 55W CFL in their place. 
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	bye for now, Kim. ================= for every vision... there is an equal and opposite revision.  | 
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	---------------------- Alan  | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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    I meant to say the T8's need more power to start than the T12's but less power to operate. In searching though I did find this interesting tidbit. http://www.americanfluorescent.com/page12.html Note the little chart down the page a bit..the aprox input watts. If you are using the lamp wattage to calculate your power bill you will be quite a bit off. A missing piece in this discussion (power = current*voltage*PF) is the power factor. The power factor is the lag is the phase between currrent and voltage and is usually arround .9 and it applies to all ballasts. Also of interest is this comparison of the lumens per watt of the various CF/fluorescent incandesent lights http://www.americanfluorescent.com/page11.html 
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	take pictures, leave footprints  | 
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			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
		
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			 Here's some more questions for ya: 
		
	
		
		
		
		
		
	
		
		
	
	
	I'm looking to OD my 2-4ft NO's but my fixture has a remote ballast. I see that Fulham makes a Longhorse model for remove duty but they are not a regularly stocked item nor will the larger ballast fit in my current case. So are any of you using a Workhorse remotely? If so what sort of run length? Secondly, what would be good choice to OD the 2-4 footers? Workhorse 5, 6, or 7? TIA  | 
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			 [quote="Tau2301"] 
		
	
		
		
		
		
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	Bob ----------------------------------------------------- To be loved you have to be nice to people every day - To be hated you don't have to do squat. ---------Homer Simpson--------  | 
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			 [quote="rcipema"] 
		
	
		
		
		
		
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	No matter what the morrow brings, inventors keep inventing things. ----------------------------------- Jonathan ----------------------------------- www.cakerybakery.ca  |