#21
|
|||||
|
|||||
Run the airstone during the trip
|
#22
|
||||
|
||||
So moving day was Friday all fish and snails survived! Corals on the other hand are still really unhappy. I think I am going to have some losses there.
The weekend and today have been unpacking so I haven't done much with the tank. I gave the fish some food yesterday and have been adding stability and amguard. Going to test the water tonight. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk |
#23
|
||||
|
||||
Water testing done! Forgot to calibrate my refractometer before making water for the new tank before the move. As a result salinity is low!
Temp: 79 Salinity: 1.023 pH: 7.8 Ammonia: 0 Nitrite: 0 Nitrate: 0 Phosphate: 0.074 Alkalinity: 8.4 Calcium: 410 Magnesium: 1350 Currently working on slowly raising salinity over the next few days. What's the best way to raise pH? Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk |
#24
|
|||||
|
|||||
Surface agitation and open a window for the afternoon; feed fresh but filtered outside air directly to your skimmer intake works best.
Are you using an Ammo Alert? It would be best if you did and only use the AmGuard IF required. Let the cycle happen and perform WCs if needed to control NO2. Keep up with the Stability for a week min. Once NH3 is under control you can stop dosing it. If you keep binding up NH3 with the AG your cycle will be retarded. |
#25
|
|||||
|
|||||
Glad to hear moving day was not too stressful. Good luck moving forward!
|
#26
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
If only it wasn't so cold here having a window open would be easier! I can increase the surface agitation though. I haven't been using a ammo alert. I actually have temporarily misplaced it during the move. But I haven't added any amguard today. I have a AQ50 sponge and 2 medium pieces of live rock from the 75 gallon tank in there so I haven't seen any ammonia. I have been testing daily. Still adding stability though. Quote:
Thanks. I'm hoping the corals bounce back. I think I have definitely lost the brain coral. The others could still turn around. |
#27
|
|||||
|
|||||
Quote:
Try to figure out some way to get outside air to your skimmer intake. I run a hose from the intake to an outside filter. And maybe during your cycle you should get that air pump running on the system. Increased agitation will help while NO2 is present, even if the room air isn't as high in O2 as you'd like. Quote:
NO2 of even just 0.25 can starve your fish of oxygen. Adding airstones may help, but better to keep NO2 below 0.1 while you are cycling. Test for NO3 as well to get a feel where your cycle is, and whether or not you need to WC to bring it down. The main thing is to keep your NH3 below 0.05 (0.02 is better for health) and NO2 below 0.1 while maintaining NO3 below an algae fuel level (near zero is best for now). Water changes of between 25% and 75% daily may be needed until you get past the NO2 portion of your cycle. Keep the filter sponge and LR free of debris that will rot and contribute to the cycle. Baste the rock, remove the detritis and rinse the sponge in old tank water during your WCs. Feed the fish lightly and only enough that they will eat. Once a day is enough over the next week or 2. Don't let anything lay around rotting. Once you are past the cycle you can increase feedings until you no longer test any NO2. Watch your fish for elevated levels of breathing and gills which are not red. Best to not see this and keep testing NO2 levels regularly. "Nitrites are actively transported across the gills and readily oxidize hemoglobin to form methemoglobin. Methemoglobinemia results in hypoxia severe enough to cause sudden death" No point in me addressing your corals as they will be affected by the cycle as much as your fish. |
#28
|
||||
|
||||
Over the last few days I have been bringing my salinity up from 1.023 to 1.026. I also found my ammonia badge and a few other miscellaneous tank things I was having trouble finding!
I added the ammonia badge and it's been saying no ammonia. I tested the water Wednesday and ammonia and nitrites were 0. Yesterday ammonia and nitrites were both at 0.25. weird that it wasn't being picked up by the ammonia badge. I have cleaned out the cover over the mp10 and switched out the filter socks. I went to go do a water change with the 5 gallons of water I had left over from the move and unfortunately my dad had combined water from the bucket with the rocks with the leftover fresh saltwater... So water change had to be pushed back to today while I made new water. That was my fault I should have checked before hand! I did add some amguard and hooked up the airstone and have kept that running. Also had some windows open yesterday to try and add at least a bit of fresh air to the house. Params yesterday were Salinity: 1.026 pH: 7.8 Ammonia: 0.25 Nitrite: 0.25 Nitrate: 5 Fish are looking good. I didn't feed them yesterday and will do a light feeding tonight. Some corals are looking better, some worse and a few haven't changed. I have been having some issues with my tunze ato. I have to unplug it for feeding(I take some tank water to thaw mysis shrimp in) and then plug it back in when I have fed the fish. It seems like Everytime I unplug and plug the ato back in it fills. And does this if it needs to or not. Is this normal? It has over filled a couple times now doing this. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk |
#29
|
||||
|
||||
A quick water test at lunch today reveals ammonia and nitrite both at 0.
Will still do a water change tonight. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk |
#30
|
|||||
|
|||||
Yes it's normal for the 3155 to pump water upon power-up.
You can adjust the voltage output to the pump. While unplugged, remove the 4 phillips screws on the back. Inside there is a micro pot. Twist the knob all the way counter-clockwise to drop the output to it's lowest setting. This will reduce the water output per cycle to 'around' a cup give or take. You'll find it will also reduce pump noise. |