Do I really need to buy?

[jazzywashbuckler]

Do I really need a Neptune apex for $650???

Do I really need auto dosing pump???

Do I really need media reactors??

Do I really need Auto top off ???

120 tank 55 gallon sump with saltwater fish later soft corals

[Aquattro]

No, you need a tank that holds water, a light that doesn't kill any coral, and a Hagen power head to move water. Maybe a heater.

NEED water.

The rest is for convenience.

[Apo Reefer]

Originally Posted by Aquattro

No, you need a tank that holds water, a light that doesn't kill any coral, and a Hagen power head to move water. Maybe a heater.

NEED water.

The rest is for convenience.

Brad, you forgot about Salt. I use IO, cheap but works, it doesn't nuke my tank as others claim

[Aquattro]

Ok, I'll give you that, salt is important. And rock. Or a filter. Or lots of water changes.

[jazzywashbuckler]

Guys I have the basics but I been told if I don't get this stuff my tanks gonna die

[gobytron]

Originally Posted by jazzywashbuckler

Guys I have the basics but I been told if I don't get this stuff my tanks gonna die

LOL...do they work at an LFS by chance?

you need to get used to people in this hobby having a rabid need to spend money.

I've never come across a group of people that were so anxious to spend as much as they can whenever they can. (hello PFO Solaris)

Out of all of that, I would say an ATO is probably borderline necessary for a reef tank (especially with Calgary's dry, hot 2 months of summer), everything else really just makes it easier and you feel cooler.

You can accumulate all of those items slowly as you go and find a need for them personally. You can find all of those item regularly used, well cared for and much cheaper than new.

[Aquattro]

Getting that stuff makes your tank easier to manage, lessening the likelihood of failure.
but no, you do not need that stuff.

You need a tank, stand and light sufficient for growing the types of corals you plan to keep. That can be MH, T5 or LED. You need water movement, ideally through a sump, but not needed. Power heads do the job.
You need rock for filtration. Kind of important. You probably need a heater. Timers are nice to automate the lights. You need a power bar to plug stuff into.

You need something to mix new water in and a hose to move it around.

Nice to have items:
Sump to hold heaters and the skimmer you may want to use. Good idea, but not absolute.
Return pump to get water back to tank.
Drilled tank is nice, you can use hang on overflow.
Media reactors, for anything you may decide you need, assessed on what the tank is doing.
Test kits. Buy good ones.

Apex, ask for one for Xmas.

[Coasting]

Originally Posted by jazzywashbuckler

Do I really need a Neptune apex for $650???

Do I really need auto dosing pump???

Do I really need media reactors??

Do I really need Auto top off ???

120 tank 55 gallon sump with saltwater fish later soft corals

67g tank, 20g sump
7 fish. Heavily fed and stocked with coral.
Vertex 150 skimmer.
2 aqueon heaters.

I don't own any of that stuff....
I use tap water.
Cheap Chinese lighting.
Coralife salt (a brand everyone seems to hate)
my ATO is me filling an ice cream bucket with tap water and a drop of prime dechlorinator and dumping that in my sump when the return starts to suck air and make annoying sounds.
I don't think I'd know how to use any of that other stuff even with reading all the posts on here lol
Once monthly 5-10 gallon water changes.
And my tanks been fine for 3 years. SPS, LPS, Softies, all grow fine. Sometimes a fish will randomly disappear, but that's happened twice I think with this group in the 3 years.

[Wheelman76]

I can see smaller more frequent water changes being better as far as replenishing elements and keeping the tank a little more stable. When it comes to reducing nitrates though larger water changes are obviously better as you are removing more at once , as opposed to smaller more frequent water changes where you keep replacing some of the new water that was just changed. Simple math and I'm pretty sure this topic has been beaten to death on here many times lol.

[gobytron]

Originally Posted by Wheelman76

I can see smaller more frequent water changes being better as far as replenishing elements and keeping the tank a little more stable. When it comes to reducing nitrates though larger water changes are obviously better as you are removing more at once , as opposed to smaller more frequent water changes where you keep replacing some of the new water that was just changed. Simple math and I'm pretty sure this topic has been beaten to death on here many times lol.

I dunno.

All due respect, as I've seen your tanks.

I think I'll stick with Fenner on this one.

I've never seen this topic being discussed before, I'll do a search and see what has been said.

Again from wet web media...

"Frequent water changes allow the aquarist to help dilute and reduce the concentration of waste products from the system before they begin to accumulate as nutrients."

So it's not just simple math...

Hoping to see some of the articles Reefwars was talking about...maybe you can reference a few?

Here is an awesome read on water changes and Nitrate reduction...

In this study, they actually find that there is virtually no difference from smaller regular changes to larger monthly changes, so long as the total changed volume is the same...

Water changes are a good way to help control certain processes that serve to drive reef aquarium water away from its starting purity. Some things build up in certain situations (organics, certain metals, sodium, chloride, nitrate, phosphate, sulfate, etc.), and some things become depleted (calcium, magnesium, alkalinity, strontium, silica, etc.). Water changes can serve to help correct these imbalances, and in some cases may be the best way to deal with them. Water changes of 15-30% per month (whether carried out once a month, daily or continuously) have been shown in the graphs above to be useful in moderating the drift of these different seawater components from starting levels. For most reef aquaria, I recommend such changes as good aquarium husbandry. In general, the more the better, if carried out appropriately, and if the new salt water is of appropriate quality.

Calcium and alkalinity, being rapidly depleted in most reef aquaria, are not well controlled, or even significantly impacted by such small water changes. In order to maintain them with no other supplements, changes on the order of 30-50% PER DAY would be required. Nevertheless, that option may still be a good choice for very small aquaria, especially if the changes are slow and automatic.

Happy Reefing!

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-10/rhf/#5