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#51
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![]() Quote:
Bean was officially warned by his wife "one more flood and I am out of here" she said. Bill then took what he had to work with and designed a system to ensure that his loving wife remained that way, Herbie I believe stumbled on the noise issue solution and then perfected it. both will work, one just has another level of "Murphy's Law" protection. Either system is designed to make things quiet from day one, Dursos and Stockmans are another method to reduce noise for systems that were designed incorrectly in the first place. Most times when you see people posting about issues it is always after the fact, they built something incorrectly and are now trying to fix it. I can think of many ways to have a silent system, why make things overly complicated though, when I read that a system is being planned and dursos are part of the initial design I shake my head, why build a parachute into the back of your car, just build the brakes correctly in the first place. Which reminds me I have a parachute for sale, used once, never opened, small stain ![]() Last edited by golf nut; 01-06-2011 at 05:43 AM. |
#52
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![]() Agree 100% on Stockman's and Durso's ... was just curious about the Beananimal recommendation since it was rather specific. Thanks for the explanation.
__________________
-- Tony My next hobby will be flooding my basement while repeatedly banging my head against a brick wall and tearing up $100 bills. Whee! |
#53
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![]() Again Paul, you made me laugh. I'd like to purchase your parachute.
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#54
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![]() Haha. No more clowning about guys! I'll send Kien over with his leash.
Paul I'm taking what you said and doing a new model to see if I read you right. If you're standing in front of the tank the overflow is on the LEFT not the right so I think I just need to reverse what you said. Gimme 10 min lol. I'm using a Herbie btw. This will be my third. And for the tank's size...would you think a Reeflo Hammerhead would work well for this CL? Last edited by lastlight; 01-06-2011 at 05:40 AM. |
#55
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![]() Hey Brett, I emailed you a closed loop sketch from Paul.
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#56
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![]() Ok if I understand correctly this will work.
Green is my returns, yellow my intakes, red my outputs. Should the returns be 1.5" and the drains 2"? ![]() Last edited by lastlight; 01-06-2011 at 06:07 AM. |
#58
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![]() Quote:
The principle is correct, you may well need more outlets in the bottom due to the length and size of the tank, depending on your personal preference, outlets could be 1 1/2 or 1" . Drain bulkheads would be 1 1/2, there is no head loss to pumps in closed loops, the head from the tank will feed more than the pump needs, you can use 2" but isn't etched in stone. It's now 2:15am here and I need to be up in a few hours, 15 more minutes of Top Gear on BBC and I am off to bed, catch you all in the morning. |
#59
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![]() The Hammerhead pushes 6000gph at 0' head.
So 2 x 1.5" drains will allow me to diffuse that pull sufficiently in your opinion? As for the outlets...I can keep the pair under the overlow and have another pair of 90s in the bottom and spread them out some. Any reason the pairs should or should not line up? Is staggering better? And of course 1" outlets will be easier to hide. I'm not sure with fittings like these whether or not flow can really be broadened much by using a larger fitting. I intend to use your omniflex nozzles. Perhaps they don't come in 1.5" I'll have to look. |
#60
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![]() Regarding the omniflex tho...in Dez' build they appear to be 45deg fittings. Would that not push flow up and work against the sump returns? 90s would push all the way to the end (all working together) and then hit the pane and go up and then pushed across the top. Maybe the 45s are better what do you think? Better for a sandbed I'm sure.
Two more outlets: ![]() |
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