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Old 02-16-2014, 02:19 AM
Ryancw Ryancw is offline
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im leaning towards building a wooden platform just due to the fact i can do it myself. i have wired and hooked up dozens of welders being that i'm an electrician but I've never used one and even if i had i wouldnt trust my work to hold up an aquarium the stand will be skinned with a walnut veneer and baseboards to match the house along the bottom so im not too concerned about the appearance of an ugly wooden platform

Even just looking at the stand now the design bothers me. my nook area where the tank will sit is only 24" deep so i opted to go internal overflow but then the stand interferes with with the drain holes. (making the overflow 6 1/2" deep is the only way around this).. unless also modifying that aswell. I'm also curious why there is no additional bracing other than just the 4 uprights. Grizz maybe you could chime in on this as well?
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Old 02-16-2014, 02:23 AM
Ryancw Ryancw is offline
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ideally it would be nice to have something like this in the corner where the drains sit.

http://reefcentral.com/gallery/data/500/9086cutout.JPG
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Old 02-16-2014, 03:00 AM
monocus monocus is offline
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use 6x6 posts covered with plywood.you could put a doorskin cut to hide the posts.you can also leave a space for your drain and returns
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Old 02-16-2014, 03:38 AM
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The Grizz The Grizz is offline
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Now this is only my personal opinion and not saying how the stand is built but the use of 2" is not required. Again only guessing that the tubing is a lite wall tube, maybe 120 wall or thinner. I only use 1 1/2" 125 wall tube for each and every stand I have ever built including the one that is under my 300 gal 8'er. If built correctly with the front & back frames mitered at a 45* to make the corners & the joining tubes over the miters it will never budge an inch.

With your stand I would make a frame 6" tall out of 1 1/2" tube to sit on top of your stand, this might allow more room for your bulkheads. The 2 frames could be bolted together with stainless steel bolts so they do not shift.
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