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#1
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![]() Well, the recent additions have flared up a bout of Cryptocaryon outbreak. The new Naso Tang and Yellow Tang are fine and showing no spots nor flashing (scraping bodies on rocks), they might have completed the treatment at Gold's and have developed immunity to it, but my new Hippo/Blue/Palette Tang along with existing residents A.ocellaris and Powder Blue Tang have it. Spots look larger and more sparse than Oodinium... so I am assuming Cryptocaryon. I've been freshwater dipping for 3 or 4 days now... thought I'd share the limits of the FW baths.
So far for the Powder Blue... I know his bolt/hide holes so I place my nori clip at the opposite end of the tank. I've had good success at catching him 4 times now throughout the past 3+ days. When he goes to the other end of tank, I'll wedge my fish net in his path to the other end of the tank along the glass... and also has helped to suddenly shut off the lights so he becomes visually impaired (no dilating pupils). First dip 2 mins, second dip 2 mins, frustrated with spots not going away, next dip increased to 15 mins watching closely... fish never became unresponsive so last night's dip I pushed to 30 mins... no issues. Tap water with temperature match, aprox 3 gallons, 5ml of Hagen StressCoat for Chlorine . A.ocellaris, one dip at 20 mins. Most spots now gone on Powder Blue Tang and A.ocellaris. Blue tang, not yet been able to catch, still covered in spots. Update on the Blastomussa that exposed skeleton. Thread on issue here: http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/sho...threadid=90755 Looking much better in the past several days simply by placing it lower in the aquarium away from the bright light. No target feeding needed... looks like it was a case of light shock. Photo today. ![]() ![]() Last edited by Reef_Geek; 10-18-2012 at 09:05 PM. |
#2
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![]() Tanks look great very nice system.
Unless I missed something though, I think those 4 tangs will have a hard time coexisting in a tank of 65g. This could be one of the factors leading to illness. Not trying to stick my nose in just seems a little crowded. |
#3
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![]() definitely crowded if they reach larger sizes. At present, they're only about 5 inches. Always have the option to sell or use opportunity to convince wife to let me upgrade tank size. Have worked years in the fish/aquaculture business... and you can see the crowded conditions in LFSs when you visit... often it's about water QC more so than space. Not much aggression/nipping/tail swipe so far. There's also the "malawi cichlid" set up effect... that is, put enough fish in the tank and not one fish bears all attacks... one fish is chasing one guy but then quickly loses focus to another fish... whereas if you put very few fish in, there's typically one winner and one loser.
Outbreak definitely from intro... it's only been days upon arrival. Good thought though. Last edited by Reef_Geek; 10-18-2012 at 10:40 PM. |
#4
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#5
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![]() wow, that's high praise. thanks.
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#6
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#7
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![]() Well, my battle with Cryptocaryon irritans continues...
I'm now doing 30 minute dips as the standard. Have done it to a Flame Hawk, Clowns, and all my Tangs (Powder Blue, Naso, Yellow, Blue/Palette/Hippo/Regal/Royal). After freshwater dips at night, the fish look great through to next morning, but by evening their spots have returned. So I got sick of catching them (if I can) out of this: ![]() This one I believe deserves a Klondike bar. I caught all my tangs out of the 65 gal reef without dismantling any rock work. The bigger tangs were easy as I know their paths of escape into the rock work, so I just bait the other end of the tank with their nori clip, and quickly move a net into place along their travel path between them, the rocks, and the glass. The little blue tang took about 3 hrs of chasing around with wooden dowels throughout the rock work, until he got under a rock that was near the top, I quickly shut off the lights to confuse him, and chased him into a black coloured net. I've since removed my frags/hermits/snails/rack and turned the 25 gal cube into a holding tank for easier catch & FW dips. No medication, considering lowering salinity to 75-50%... but not as low as true hyposalinity. In the dip/bath bucket, I'm using a bit of Herbtana (came with a bunch of crap I got in package deals) aprox 1/3 cap full, along with Stress Coat (for chlorine) aprox 5ml, and just tap water (aprox 2-3 gal)... 30min bath once daily (twice if I have time). ![]() ![]() While I have the camera out... Blastomussa that had receding tissue and exposed skeleton continues to look good after relocation to a dimmer spot on the sand bed ![]() Acquisitions from Tidal_Waters over the weekend looking solid. They were Acropora formosa, Acanthastrea, and (no photo) Pocillopora. ![]() ![]() Other photos from around the tank... Acanthastrea from Lee9 this summer, my other Blastomussa that did not get light shocked, and some amphipods having sex. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
#8
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![]() Quote:
In Reality, its not aggression, or being 'to crowded' in a 3 foot 65 gallon tank with 4-5 tangs in it.... it's the fact that they need lots of swimming room, as they are an active, continuously swimming fish. Just because fish stores cram 6 tangs in a 20 gallon tank, dosn't mean that morally, you should too. With that much rock work, there is probably only 30-40 gallons actual swimming room in there for them. Thats not a suitable habitat for them at all. If you are in the "fish/aquaculture business" as you say, then you should truely know better, or at the very least, sympathize with these animals a little more. Sell the tangs. Theres a lot more fish out there that you can keep. Wait until you have a bigger, better setup for the tangs. Just a thought..
__________________
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#9
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![]() Too late! Tang PO-PO!
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#10
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![]() They call it addiction for a reason... |
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