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#1
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![]() Intermittently using aiptasia x, but haven't used it recently. I have a shipment of berghia nudis on the way as well
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#2
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Last edited by babyreef; 11-25-2011 at 02:10 PM. |
#3
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![]() Quote:
zoas are actually quite finicky though some are very hardy others dont last and alot of them just melt away for numerous resons. kinda sucks and def very misleading that zoas are a hardy coral they are quite sneaky and while they can do well and explode in growth in just a few short months they can then just melt away in a matter of days, very frustrating.
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#4
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Last edited by babyreef; 11-25-2011 at 02:10 PM. |
#5
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![]() I have had the same thing happen lately, I have had zoas for a couple of years, they were doing great, spreading looking beautiful then all of a sudden started shrinking.
I have been experimenting, I moved 2 colonies up in my tank where there is more flow, I left 2 colonies where they were and have done nothing but blow them off a bit and I moved 2 colonies out to a 10g and have been doing furan2 dips for pox, this was a little over a week ago. The 2 I moved up look bad, from the 2 I moved out, 1 looks a little better the other looks the same, the ones I left in place look the best, go figure. I have vitamin c on order and will start dosing soon, hope it helps. My skimmer has not been at its top performance lately and I also run biopellets, I am wondering if its to do with bacteria in the tank. |
#6
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![]() I don't think so since dosing vitamin C is a form of carbon dosing and it does create a biofilm on things like pumps and glasses (I think I was dosing too much!), so it does help some bacterias to multiply. I don't know what it is about vitamin C that help them. Dosing vitamin C require a good skimming.
Instead of having algae on my glass now I have this gray/white film and it's greasy. It build up so that I have to clean it about every other day but my zoanthids are doing much better. Another thing is each time I dip my zoanthids in peroxyde, there are dozen of small bristle worms coming from the frag. I am guessing that those small baby worms are anoying the zoanthids. All those ichy detaching bristles can't be good. You can try dipping some of your affected zoanthids in peroxyde and see what come out. They usually perk up after such dip. |
#7
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![]() Its also hard to remember that zoanthids come from all parts of the ocean. With some being a hundred feet down to others being exposed to air for hours as the tide moves in and out. Often they are grouped all together yet they may have very different needs. I've also lost 2 colonies recently with a different colony on the same rock surviving. It is unfortunate but the best that can be done is to learn from it and try to avoid it in the future.
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#8
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![]() this morning, I took one of the colonies that I had placed higher in the tank and gave it a peroxide dip, only 1 pod came off that I could see, that colony is only slightly open now.
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#9
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![]() Well that's what it is about zoanthids. The long term success is far from garantee...
I had the same thing hapening in my aquarium and many people experience the same thing. I have some paly (pink and gold) that are absolutely undestructible and I can thear them in 2 and both half of the polyp will survive, but the smaller zoanthids are a pain. I have started to dose vitamine C because I was not ready to lose all my zoanthids and after 2 weeks of dosing, things are getting a lot better! I can see a clear improvement. Some zoanthids that were prone to melting have multipled and the plugs are full of polyps. If you wish to keep zoanthids for a long time, and you are having problem with melting, consider dosing vitamin C as it will help a lot. First check for parasites, including the large amphipods wich will eat zoanthids flesh, and if no parasites are found, then I would dose VC. Another thing that I find help a lot to make them grow is feeding Chromaplex. I have tried many type of food but have best succes with this. Although Chromaplex does not prevent zoanthids from melting away. Also you can try dipping your colonies in 1/3 peroxyde 3% and 2/3 tank water. When ever my zoanthids are invaded by algae, or are closing up, I dip them for a few minutes with that mix. Does wonders ![]() I use Aiptasia X all the time in my colonies because my dear copperband won't touch aiptasias...and it never ever affected negatively any of my frag. Sometime the white paste splash all in between the polyps but they are fine once the stuff is gone. I doubt that is what is killing your zoanthids. Zoanthids are very sensitive to swing in PH, alkalinity, salinity and temperature. Be sure that your parameters are stables. Last edited by daniella3d; 10-23-2011 at 02:28 AM. |
#10
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Last edited by babyreef; 11-25-2011 at 02:10 PM. |
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