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#1
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![]() can't turn off the pumps, they are only means of flow. One for closed loop, other for sump.
Russell, House temp is 71 day, 65 night. It's not the temp swings i'm really worried about, it's the evaporation. I know theres gona be evap, but 1-1.5g a day? That's alot of water into my air, and walls, carpets etc.
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Dan Pesonen Umm, a tank or 5 |
#2
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![]() Quote:
Only way to stop evaporation is by using lids. To prevent moisture build up in the house you can either vent out the humid air or use a dehumidifier. If it's that much of a concern and you can't afford the fixes you need to rethink your tanks. You could downsize or change the larger one into a fish only with lower lighting and lids. Last edited by sphelps; 10-27-2009 at 05:03 PM. |
#3
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![]() Quote:
Steve
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![]() Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive. |
#4
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![]() I agree, it most likely the lights adding the heat not the pumps. My 135 runs much warmer with the MH lights on it than my 50 with just CF light. The 50 needs heaters on to keep the temp up in spite of having all submersed pumps and powerheads. The 135 needs fans to keep the temp down once the lights come on.
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I retired and got a fixed income but it's broke. Ed _______________________________________ 50 gallon FOWLR, 10 gallon sump. 130 gallon reef, 20 gallon sump, 10 gallon refugium. 10 gallon quarantine. 60 gallon winter tank for pond fish. 300 gallon pond with waterfall. |
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