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#1
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![]() I have been tossing around the idea of going with external overflows myself but after doing some research on the subject I have come up with two conclusions. External overflows can possibly fail and dump water on to the floor. Also they do not move as much gallonage as internal overflows which means you cannot run a large return pump without having to limit its flow or you risk overflowing the tank. The other reason I am not as fond of external overflows is because I want to place the tank as close to the wall as possible for aesthetic reasons. These are only the conclusion that I have come up with and I certainly do not consider myself an expert on the subject or I wouldn't have started this post.
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Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience. Last edited by Palster; 11-26-2006 at 05:15 AM. |
#2
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![]() Thanks Palster..I appreciate your comments..
Rich........ |
#3
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![]() Hello,
Seastar is drillable on all panes. If durso is 1.5" and feedline is 1" and you leave a decent space between holes for flanges and the walls of the overflow for flange space you need about 8" minimum inside overflow dimensions. Keep in mind Sea star puts cleats on inside seams of alot of their tanks, also euro bracing.... these also influence sizes of overflows. There is no more danger of flooding with internal vs external overflows, nor does the gallonage have to be decreased,likley it is just the opposite...instead of taking inside of tank space,youve actually added more. but yes, it will have to be placed further from the wall to accomadate them. The best overflow possible is also the longest possible length of "spill over" with that in mind external can be done full length without taking any space at all from your reef. Marc.
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Confucious say : Things that come to those who wait, will be things left over by those who didnt. |
#4
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![]() Quote:
Rich..... |
#5
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![]() Quote:
It looks as though there are a fair number of people running external overflows. It certainly would be easier than having to drill the tank. Aside from having to move the tank further from the wall I can see some advantages. I did read an article on one website where the author was claiming that when the power goes out and comes back on if the siphon for the external overflow fails to start back up when the return pump comes back on then you can have a flood. Glenn
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Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience. |
#6
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![]() Outside overflow. Have a glass Co. notch the tank 2" and build your overflow boxes on the outside. You can go with the lifereef overflow boxes too but, I was talking about building your overlow boxes on the outside not inside your display. You can either notch the tank or drill holes near the top of the tank to feed the overflow boxes.
Rich......... |
#7
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![]() That explains the confusion. I was thinking of the of the siphon style overflow boxes. Those are the ones that I believe can cause flooding for the reason I had mentioned in my last post. I had never considered notching the glass and building the overflow on the outside.
Glenn
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Never argue with an idiot. They bring you down to their level and beat you with experience. |
#8
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#9
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![]() Hello,
The total length would be your length of the overflow x1 and your depth x2. so an 8x5 oveflow would be 18" of actual surface skimming. But i couldnt say it would be 5" in depth because i was unsure of bracing (cleats and or euro) in your tank...the 8" is a minimum width to fit a 2 1/2" hole(1.5"bulkhead) and a 1 3/4" hole(1" bulkhead) aswell as the street 1.5" 90 that you will use on your durso, aswell as typical flange size. You/glass company must notch the top, rather than drill holes here, holes will not work. Marc.
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Confucious say : Things that come to those who wait, will be things left over by those who didnt. Last edited by SuperFudge; 11-26-2006 at 10:23 PM. |
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