This is odd...

[Beverly]

Oops, I forgot to mention phosphate in the tapwater which is linked to cyano growth. Prime will do nothing to neutralize phosphate.

Do you have any macroalgae in the tank to utilize nutrients?

Could also be that you've had phosphate in your tank for awhile and is just now showing up as a bunch of cyano, especially in low flow areas.

[mr_alberta]

If you want to take out phosphate, you can use Rowaphos or Phosban. Just be careful how you use them as a sudden drop in Phosphate levels is really hard on SPS.

[OCDP]

Yeah, Bev.. I know PRIME doesn't remove phosphates.

And I definitely wouldn't be too surprised to find some phosphates in my water.. I mean, 20g , 4 fish...the feedings, etc... it's inevatible IMO.

I just don't know how much phosphates are in my water hehe... let's say it can't be TOO bad considering my SPS are thriving and growing well in these conditions.

Here's a question... can I simply stick macro's into my tank and hide them away in a corner or something and just let them grow? What kind of macro's would be best? If so, I will definitely do this so it sucks some nutrients up... why haven't I thought/tried this before?! eesh.

[OCDP]

Bev,

Will do... I'll test before adding PRIME.

Mr. Alberta,

Thanks for the tips, I'd love to run a phosphate remover but I don't have any way of running it! I only use powerheads and a HOB skimmer on my tank

[OCDP]

Oops, not sure if the question was missed or not.. just wanted to ask before it gets put down to the bottom of the page ...


Can I stick macros directly into my display for nutrients? Could I simply just stick it in a back corner so it's hidden and let it grow??? What kind of macro's would be best to use?

Thanks.

[TheReefGeek]

I would test your water before and after Prime then. It is good to know what is in the water before prime, but more importantly after, because that is what is actually going into your tank.

Yes you can grow macro in your display, read up on it going asexual first. I think Chaeto is one of the safer ones. Bev uses and elastic and attaches it to a rock in your BB tanks. I have just started Chaeto, but have had razor and grape calurpa in my display for a long time, never had any problems.

[OCDP]

Thanks Rory.

I'll test my water this evening

[Willow]

cheato can grow quite well in your tank, you do not need a sump for it. only problem is it can grow fast depending on your nutrient level so you need to keep it pruned back or it will overrun. don't add caulerpa to your display as it will infest your rock and possibly go sexual without a 24 hour lighting period.

[OCDP]

thanks Willow.

Will the chaeto attatch to my rocks and spread over them?? I don't want that to happen.

Does anyone feel like explaining how and what it is when macro's go sexual? Or anyone with some good reads on it?

Lastly.. what does calupra (sp?) look like? I have this purple string-like macro on my rocks and it attatches to it like crazy, it's impossible to rip off...

If the chaeto is a good choice, and wont over-run my live rocks... then I am off to find me some chaeto !

[Beverly]

Chaeto does not actually attach to the rock, even after a long period of time, ime. Just keep pruning it back and change elastics once in awhile. However, I have had bits of chaeto, that must have detached from the main "chaeto ball" while pruning, attach to the backs of my tanks. Thought that was kind of weird since it has never attached to the rock it's elasticked to. (Don't know if elasticked is even a word )

I have chaeto and other non-invasive macroalgae in higher flow areas of all our no-skimmer, no sump/refugium, BB tanks. I also try really hard to keep a low bioload and not overfeed.