plumbing help!

[ashr]

Hey all

I am about to buy all my parts for me animal bean over flow. I have 1" slip/slip bulk heads all read and two 3/4 slip/slip for my returns.

So far I am needing a 1" Gate Valve. slip/slip or threaded. Not sure what would be best.

Also I am needing a ball valve or a True double union ball.

Now this is where I am stuck.. Not sure what other major parts I will need.. Maybe check valves?

Any help would be great

Thanks

[target]

Here's a pic of the plumbing for my bean animal over flow. Used a knife valve, slip/slip but added unions on both sides. All my overflow piping is 1" bulkheads into 1-1/2" piping. I also added ball valves with unions on each return. My return lines are 1" into a 1" bulkhead then reduced to 3/4" locline. I added a check valve right at the pump on the return and get no back siphon from the DT into the sump.

[ashr]

Awesome, thanks for the pictures!

Did you use slip/slip or threaded?

[IanWR]

Are you not concerned with the check valve failing? I didn't use them when I did my plumbing since I had read so much about detritus/sponges/snails/worms getting in and causing the check valve to malfunction. Perhaps check valve technology has changed since I did my research?

[target]

Originally Posted by ashr

Awesome, thanks for the pictures!

Did you use slip/slip or threaded?

Everything outside the tank except for the caps on the top of the down pipes is slip/slip. Inside the tank the elbows are threaded as well as the locline. I used unions to make sure I can disassemble as needed.

Originally Posted by IanWR

Are you not concerned with the check valve failing? I didn't use them when I did my plumbing since I had read so much about detritus/sponges/snails/worms getting in and causing the check valve to malfunction. Perhaps check valve technology has changed since I did my research?

The check valve I got has no metal so nothing to rust and fail. I also have a screen on the pump intake which should prevent any critters from getting in there. Plus, I do have room in the sump in case it did fail and the tank siphoned down to the return level. I was maybe a little paranoid and tried to double up safety features where I could.

[CM125]

I use threaded, but slip with unions works too. I just like that I can change my setup later to anything without rebuying a $30 valve. X2 on the not using check valves, even the plastic ones gum up, not worth it IMO.

[ashr]

I am also thinking of running either a Eheim 1262 or 1260 for my return pump.

1" hose from the pump to a ball valve then to a 3/4 hose and into my tank

Thoughts on how this should work? I want to split the pump with a T to return to but returns. (return is 3/4)

[Ulmo]

Originally Posted by IanWR

Are you not concerned with the check valve failing? I didn't use them when I did my plumbing since I had read so much about detritus/sponges/snails/worms getting in and causing the check valve to malfunction. Perhaps check valve technology has changed since I did my research?

I use a transparent true union check valve, so I can easily monitor its condition/performance and maintain it as necessary. I also run an Fluval SP4 wide open, so it would take one determined critter to get down to the check valve. Basic setup before some tuning/modifications.

[target]

Forgot to mention, my check valve is also transparent so easy to see if it's getting gummed up.

[CM125]

how do you find tuning the drains with ball valves?