Ro/di

[Gp Scott]

Looking to add to my vertex Ro/di 100 gpd with booster pump system. My inlet tds is 900 to over a 1000 soft well water with a newer membrane it gets it down to 60 now being over a year old it's 240 tds so I use a lot of di resin to get it to 0 I want to add another membrane to get tds lower before it reaches di. Any suggestions ?

[Myka]

What's the TDS if you by-pass the softener? Also, are you using a pressurized tank?

[Gp Scott]

Originally Posted by Myka

What's the TDS if you by-pass the softener? Also, are you using a pressurized tank?

It's soft water right from well I have no water softener I already have it tee off before di canister to supply Ro water to kitchen for drinking water . The kitchen Ro has 9 gallon pressure tank

[Myka]

Originally Posted by Gp Scott

It's soft water right from well I have no water softener I already have it tee off before di canister to supply Ro water to kitchen for drinking water . The kitchen Ro has 9 gallon pressure tank

Ok, so the aquarium water doesn't go through the pressure tank, right? You have it tee'd off before the pressure tank, not after, right? Have you had a water analysis done? It would be helpful to know exactly what is in the water.

I think the best thing you can do is run dual RO membranes, and probably extra capacity DI filters. You really want to try to get the TDS down to 20 ppm or less before it goes into the DI resin.

I'll get the BRS guys to come reply to you - they're good at this stuff.

[Gp Scott]

Originally Posted by Myka

Ok, so the aquarium water doesn't go through the pressure tank, right? You have it tee'd off before the pressure tank, not after, right? Have you had a water analysis done? It would be helpful to know exactly what is in the water.

I think the best thing you can do is run dual RO membranes, and probably extra capacity DI filters. You really want to try to get the TDS down to 20 ppm or less before it goes into the DI resin.

I'll get the BRS guys to come reply to you - they're good at this stuff.

Yes the aquarium water dose not go to pressure tank . It goes thru the full Ro/di cycle into a 5 gallon auto top off. I did have my water tested thru cullagan water services they sent water to lab came back good . They didn't break it down as to what was in it .
The dual Ro membrane was what I was thinking too but not sure if I need dual di .im thinking the membranes should drop it enough before it gets to di.

[Myka]

Originally Posted by Gp Scott

Yes the aquarium water dose not go to pressure tank . It goes thru the full Ro/di cycle into a 5 gallon auto top off. I did have my water tested thru cullagan water services they sent water to lab came back good . They didn't break it down as to what was in it .
The dual Ro membrane was what I was thinking too but not sure if I need dual di .im thinking the membranes should drop it enough before it gets to di.

Could you get a hold of Culligan and get them to email you the full results? Since it's a well, there could be a number of parameters that will trouble you - CO2 is a PITA and will burn through your DI like nobody's business.

Another thing to think of is that since you have drinking water going through the same system, you're going to get TDS creep way worse than if it was just for aquarium water. TDS creep compounds the more often the RO turns on and off. With drinking water on the system, this could be happening numerous times a day. If it was me, I'd be buying spring water to drink (they deliver, I buy a month at a time) and use the RO/DI system solely for the aquarium simply because you're dealing with such high TDS. Maybe BRS has a good win/win solution. I emailed them, hopefully they will reply today.