Star fish

Dearth · #1 02-06-2013, 03:39 AM

I am looking at maybe getting a star fish this spring but not sure what the best type to get for my tank a 33 gallon. I have heard even reef safe starfish might decide to eat fish at that reside on the bottom and some that are not considered reef safe end up being reef safe so I'm a little confused.

What are the best choices for a nano reef?

What are your opinions on star fish are they worth it or endless cause for worry?

How sensitive are they to salinity/temperature changes?

Any info is much lay appreciated thank you

Madmak · #2 02-06-2013, 03:48 AM

With that size of tank almost any starfish is tricky. They need a lot of space to find the types of food and detritus they need to thrive. I'm no expert but I think you would have issues with a chocolate chip, blue, or any ornamental type but a sand sifter or brittle star might do better. The latter are more functional as well.

I do have a few in a 200G but they take some spot feeding to ensure they aren't competing for every meal.

Some more research should reveal the answers to your other questions, don't rely on the LFS too much on this subject.

Good luck with the search.

chromakey · #3 02-06-2013, 03:52 AM

Hi:

I just purchased a red star fish for my 28 Gallon JBJ Nano. He is quite active but how do you know if he is getting enough to eat? How would you spot feed him?

Thanks,

Madmak · #4 02-06-2013, 04:06 AM

That's part of the issue, a starfish can look fine one day and literally disintegrate the next, that's how they die. Kinda weird actually.

Spot feeding is pretty easy, just move him on top of some recently fed food. Mine prefer krill and larger shrimp type foods.

Baldy · #5 02-06-2013, 05:02 AM

ive had a maroon linkia in my 75 for a couple months now. it crawls over everything but doesnt knock anything over and doesnt touch corals. from what ive read they need an established system, and need a SLOW acclimation. i did 2 hours. apparently they eat film algae off surfaces. i havent fed mine and hes doing good as far as i can tell.

craigwmiller · #6 02-06-2013, 05:24 AM

I have both a Burgundy Linckia and a Red Fromia star fish in my system -- both reef safe... They each came from my previous 12 and 14 gallon tanks, where they were also thriving. These both are about 3" tip to tip, and grow very slowly, and move very slowly while you watch them (turn your head for what seems like a minute and they are across the tank, HA!)

getting a healthy one is key, and acclimating them properly - uber slow drip, say 2 hours (measure at least the temp and salinity of your water compared to the source water - and drip (sometimes removing water) until the parameters match). Quick parameter changes are their enemy (salinity, ph, temperature) - if they get too big a shock too quick they are unlikely to recover. And also air is supposedly bad for them (like don't net them up and move them - but always keep them submerged while migrating them).... I can't back this up, but I've always kept them 'wet' while moving them around just in case and I've had great success (2 stars, 2 moves each, very healthy).

mikeclarke · #7 02-06-2013, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by craigwmiller

I have both a Burgundy Linckia and a Red Fromia star fish in my system -- both reef safe... They each came from my previous 12 and 14 gallon tanks, where they were also thriving. These both are about 3" tip to tip, and grow very slowly, and move very slowly while you watch them (turn your head for what seems like a minute and they are across the tank, HA!)

getting a healthy one is key, and acclimating them properly - uber slow drip, say 2 hours (measure at least the temp and salinity of your water compared to the source water - and drip (sometimes removing water) until the parameters match). Quick parameter changes are their enemy (salinity, ph, temperature) - if they get too big a shock too quick they are unlikely to recover. And also air is supposedly bad for them (like don't net them up and move them - but always keep them submerged while migrating them).... I can't back this up, but I've always kept them 'wet' while moving them around just in case and I've had great success (2 stars, 2 moves each, very healthy).

How do you make sure you don't get fish store water into your tank? I've always thought that allowing fish tank water into your tank is a way for parasites etc to enter your tank. I tried a linkia and did an 1.5 hour acclimate but it died. It hid under a huge peice of live rock and then I got concerned and brought it out into the open. It then melted a few days later.

If I got a star again how would I do the best acclimate? I floated the bag for half an hour in my display with the lights off and then put a quarter cup of display water into the bag. When it got full, I took water out. I know people have done the airline hose drip acclimate but I haven't tried it.

I recently lost an awesome bright yellow sail fin tang after a week in my 20 gal quarantine tank. The copper band and the kole tang are fine. The sail fin looked healthy. I did notice a few tiny white spots on the tail of the copper band. I dosed with herbtana and artemiss for three days each and it seems fine. Is there a problem with my acclimation process for fish as well?

craigwmiller · #8 02-06-2013, 01:58 PM

The drip method (airline barely open via small valve or knot) is the only way to go. I use this for all livestock, and starfish are most important to have a gradual change. If you start a siphon with it and have a little airline shutoff valve, you can easily adjust the drip rate.

As for aquarium water in the tank, it's true you don't ideally want much of their water in the tank... though to be fair after 2 hours of dripping, and removing water often as the bag keeps getting full, the amount of store water left in the bag is in the minority, then it comes to technique: I turn off the pumps so no flow, and get him transfered into a small cup inside the bag, with water right up near the top. Then I slowly bring the cup to the water, and with one hand inside the cup on the star and another on the cup I slowly lower the cup into the water, still vertical, and as soon as the cup is about 1/2 submerged I pull the star into the water column and immediately remove the cup from the water without spilling - since no flow, the amount of water that left the cup will be negligible.