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#1
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![]() This is the 2nd time within ONE FREAKING YEAR that the channel 1 of my ATI dimmable stopped working (bought it on last boxing day). ONE FREAKING YEAR! When I put down $600+ on a fixture, is it too much to expect it to run without any problem for at least a year? Or is it just a complimentary part of "you get what you pay for"?!
My $100 odyssea "asian market crap" did better than this and didn't burn down my house. Rant off. ![]()
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#2
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![]() They won't give you a replacement part? Seems weird. ****ty to hear either way.
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#3
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![]() They will but my concern is I shouldn't be needing parts twice for such an expensive fixture within a year. I have to go through the inconvenience of waiting for it for 2+ weeks. Luckily 4 lights still works so I won't have to worry about corals loosing colors.
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#4
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![]() Well atleast they are placing it. What do they say is the root of the problem? It can't be fality three times! Have others had this problem?
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#5
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![]() I feel your pain. Seriously, in this hobby you don't always get what you pay for. I have a bucket full of dead tunze 6105s to prove it *sadface*
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#6
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![]() Quote:
Quote:
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#7
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![]() Update: ATI apparently released a new relay to address such issue (so must be a common one) and they will be the sending me new ones asap.
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You wouldn't want to see my tank. I don't use fancy equipment and I am a noob ![]() |
#8
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![]() ATI? What type & model exactly? I did a quick search using ATI dimmable aquarium light as criteria & seems these are T5HO. If that's the case, then the 'dimmable' part is very likely part of the issue. Fluorescent lighting & dimming have never been a very feasible or reliable technology. Flourescents, after the 'start' phase, generally like to run at a constant, predermined current using a specific ballast & messing with that reduces their efficiency & life. The added complexity of components required to dim fluorescents is another reason to stay away from them. Metal Halides are the same. If you want dimming, the most robust, easiest & cost effective solution is the good old filament bulb (soon to be outlawed) or, gasp, LED. The last fixture I had used a combo of MH & T5HO. Instead of dimming the T5HOs on that, I actually overdrove them with Workhorse ballasts, no dimming.
I feel your pain & T5HO will be around a little longer, but best to stick with standard, non dimmable fluorescents until they too go the way of the dodo bird. EDIT: And for a company that manufactures fixtures for aquariums to think the problem might be humidity, is cause to raise an eyebrow, no?
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Mike 77g sumpless SW DIY 10 watt multi-chip LED build ![]() Last edited by mike31154; 11-11-2014 at 08:14 PM. |
#9
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![]() I like to dim my tank by squinting my eyes. It's very cost effective and the technology is proven.
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#10
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![]() Well this is my pride and joy of a high end light that I've used less than 7 months, and there is 2 more ballasts to come out yet. And this is a 12 bulb/ballast fixture. They are not dimmable and as you can see somewhere along the line they even stuck in a non-original ballast. I was hunting for dimmable ballasts but hard to find in a 80w version. This is going to be turned into a LED/T5 similar to the ATI unit.
![]() using a good old stand-by so it's at least somewhat usable ![]() ![]() a little advertising plug ![]() ![]()
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Mike 150g reef, 55g sump, T5's, Vertech 200A, Profilux III - German made is highly over rated, should just say Gerpan made. Reefkeeper - individual obsessed with placing disturbing amounts of electricity and seawater in close proximity for the purpose of maintaining live coral reef organisms. |
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