Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board  

Go Back   Canreef Aquatics Bulletin Board > General > Reef

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-08-2010, 10:11 PM
Jfish Jfish is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Estevan, Sask
Posts: 56
Jfish is on a distinguished road
Default Starfire Lighting Suggestions

So im in the process of upgrading to a new tank and im looking for some lighting suggestions. I recently got a used starfire tank on a amazing good deal. Its 55 inches long, 35 inches wide and 25 inches deep. The tanks overflow is an island in the middle that measures 17 inches long and 7.5 inches wide leaving four viewable sides. The end pieces of the overflow extend upwards an extra four inches which leaves a nice little spot to rest a fixture.

Once I get the thing setup I will transfer over the contents of my 75 gallon reef. Its mostly lps coral (elegance, torch, hammer, frogspawn) and zoas with two leathers (toadstool, yellow fiji) although I don't want to limit myself by not having enough light for sps either since it will be my last tank for a long time.

At first I plan on moving over my current fixture. Its a nova extreme 8x54w and just rest it on the overflow. It lights my 75 perfectly but with this being twice the width and lots of light being lost to the overflow it just seems like it will be lacking. I wont really know forsure until I set it on there but looking for some other options so I can possibly start collecting equipment.

Possible options I've considered.

- current fixture will provide enough light (cheap and easy but can't hang)

- getting a two bulb metal halide/t5 fixture

- hang two tek 6x54w fixtures above the tank

- 3-36 inch fixtures to span the width of the tank (clutter/lots of chords)


Im kinda leaning towards using two tek fixtures which would allow me to hang them above my tank. It would require new fixtures since my current won't hang but it would leave a nice clean look. Would that provide me with enough light to add sps later. Any input would be appreciated or if there is something I haven't thought of let me know.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 12-08-2010, 10:30 PM
reefwars reefwars is offline
R.I.P.
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,186
reefwars will become famous soon enough
Default

If your light doesn't hang is it possible to screw some holes in it and make it hang using some nuts/washes and some of those bolts with the ring on top???
__________________
........
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 12-08-2010, 10:55 PM
Jfish Jfish is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Estevan, Sask
Posts: 56
Jfish is on a distinguished road
Default

Well I think it would be possible with some sort of Macgyver job if I opened up the fixture. Im not sure how confident I would feel about putting it over my tank though since the basic frame of the fixture is plastic.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 12-08-2010, 11:08 PM
Myka's Avatar
Myka Myka is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Saskatoon, SK.
Posts: 11,268
Myka will become famous soon enough
Default

I think you should just sell me that tank because your lights won't work too well on it, and mine will! I heard about the deal you got on that.

Anyway, I think you're better off with halides for this setup. A couple of pendants would work well so you could space them evenly. I would suggest 2x250w either DE on HQI ballasts or SE on electronic ballasts, then be careful to pick bulbs with decent output. I would suggest Phoenix bulbs either DE or SE depending which setup you decide on, or Aquaconnect bulbs if you're feeling rich. Then use big reflectors for good light spread like the full size Lumenarc, Lumenmax, or Lumenbrite. If you plan on going with SPS in the future I would suggest 400w just because of the spread issue.

However, with mostly LPS and softies I think you should just try your 8x54w T5 fixture for now, you may find that is enough light. Just position it in the middle. Or I think you would be fine with two 4x54w T5 fixtures, one on each side of the overflow.
__________________
~ Mindy

SPS fanatic.

Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 12-08-2010, 11:59 PM
Jfish Jfish is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Estevan, Sask
Posts: 56
Jfish is on a distinguished road
Default

Yeah I did consider pendants since they could still be hanged above and leave a clean look. I guess I just don't have the understanding of MH so its a little intimidating trying to figure out how to piece it togeather. So your suggesting using two or three pendants, each pendant having two bulbs inside of it. Then spacing the pendants evenly across the length of the tank. That way the two bulbs in the pendant would be spaced a bit so not as much light would be going straight into the overflow.

I take it the pendants only have a power cord coming out of them that could be run down into the stand. Then each pendant would attach to a seperate ballast?

If you don't mind me asking a good place to get all this stuff if I decide to go that route or at least gain a better understanding of it. I see on JL site you can pick bulbs and ballast but not the reflector. Maybe im just looking in the wrong spot.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 12-09-2010, 12:03 AM
mattdean mattdean is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Mississauga, ON
Posts: 133
mattdean is on a distinguished road
Default

I hung my 8 bulb Tek light with a Sunlift suspension and it ROCKS! I just lift it out of the way and push it back down when I'm done. Very clean looking.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 12-09-2010, 01:53 AM
Myka's Avatar
Myka Myka is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Saskatoon, SK.
Posts: 11,268
Myka will become famous soon enough
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jfish View Post
Yeah I did consider pendants since they could still be hanged above and leave a clean look. I guess I just don't have the understanding of MH so its a little intimidating trying to figure out how to piece it togeather. So your suggesting using two or three pendants, each pendant having two bulbs inside of it. Then spacing the pendants evenly across the length of the tank. That way the two bulbs in the pendant would be spaced a bit so not as much light would be going straight into the overflow.
Not quite. Two pendants, one bulb in each pendant. One pendant on each end of the tank with a slightly larger gap between the two lights than the gap between each light and the end of the tank.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jfish
I take it the pendants only have a power cord coming out of them that could be run down into the stand. Then each pendant would attach to a seperate ballast?
Yes, one cord going from each pendant to each ballast, then one cord from each ballast to the wall. You can buy dual ballasts too, so they are 2 in 1. Still have one cord from each pendant though, but only one cord to the wall.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jfish
If you don't mind me asking a good place to get all this stuff if I decide to go that route or at least gain a better understanding of it. I see on JL site you can pick bulbs and ballast but not the reflector. Maybe im just looking in the wrong spot.
I have some pendants, ballasts, and reflectors I could show you how they work. Makes more sense to see yourself.

On J&L's site they allow you to pick ballasts and bulbs together because some ballasts will only run certain bulbs, so some bulbs will only run on certain ballasts. They have taken that guesswork out for you by only listing the compatible options. You buy the reflectors separately, you just have to match DE or SE (double end or single end).

Personally, I prefer to buy locally rather than buying from J&L Aquatics. I suggest you talk to Bayside Corals or The Reef Shoppe and buy from whoever can get you the best price on the equipment you decide on. You may be surprised how close many prices are to J&L.
__________________
~ Mindy

SPS fanatic.

Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 12-09-2010, 02:49 AM
naesco's Avatar
naesco naesco is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: vancouver
Posts: 1,747
naesco is on a distinguished road
Default

I would recommend you go with LED.
The lighting is discrete and compact. There is no heat and minimal electricity is used.
The florescence is outstanding under the blue LED lighting.

You can find inexpensive LED lighting at www.fish-street.com Your tank size will determine whether you want Key or Maxspect LED lighting.

Based on my experience to date I would personally never buy a MH light again.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 12-09-2010, 05:04 AM
Jfish Jfish is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Estevan, Sask
Posts: 56
Jfish is on a distinguished road
Default

Well thanks for the input Myka. That setup does make sense it just seems like there would be a dull gap in the middle. I like the shimmer of the metal halide but I like the flexibility of my current T5 bulb setup and the flourescence of the actinics. It gives me something to think about anyways. Im sure there will be more than one phone call to colby for more information or suggestions too. Ideally I should put a nice big LED fixture on it but until the pricing comes down I don't see it happening.

Probably have to wait and see how my current fixture looks and then go from there.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 12-09-2010, 05:10 AM
reefwars reefwars is offline
R.I.P.
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Calgary, AB
Posts: 6,186
reefwars will become famous soon enough
Default

If you want 400w mh I have 4 of them and the ballast reflectors etc selling them cheap.

Our set ups are close in design somewhat , check out my build I'm having a light ring made and I'm mounting 4 x 250w pendants and I'm gonna use Cree LEDs to supplement and start and finish my light cycle. That ways I always get the shimmer and my halides aren't running all day
__________________
........
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 04:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.