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Old 12-15-2014, 08:26 PM
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Default plumbing help!

Hey all

I am about to buy all my parts for me animal bean over flow. I have 1" slip/slip bulk heads all read and two 3/4 slip/slip for my returns.

So far I am needing a 1" Gate Valve. slip/slip or threaded. Not sure what would be best.

Also I am needing a ball valve or a True double union ball.

Now this is where I am stuck.. Not sure what other major parts I will need.. Maybe check valves?

Any help would be great

Thanks
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:42 PM
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Here's a pic of the plumbing for my bean animal over flow. Used a knife valve, slip/slip but added unions on both sides. All my overflow piping is 1" bulkheads into 1-1/2" piping. I also added ball valves with unions on each return. My return lines are 1" into a 1" bulkhead then reduced to 3/4" locline. I added a check valve right at the pump on the return and get no back siphon from the DT into the sump.
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Last edited by target; 12-15-2014 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:25 PM
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Awesome, thanks for the pictures!

Did you use slip/slip or threaded?
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:31 PM
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Are you not concerned with the check valve failing? I didn't use them when I did my plumbing since I had read so much about detritus/sponges/snails/worms getting in and causing the check valve to malfunction. Perhaps check valve technology has changed since I did my research?
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashr View Post
Awesome, thanks for the pictures!

Did you use slip/slip or threaded?
Everything outside the tank except for the caps on the top of the down pipes is slip/slip. Inside the tank the elbows are threaded as well as the locline. I used unions to make sure I can disassemble as needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IanWR View Post
Are you not concerned with the check valve failing? I didn't use them when I did my plumbing since I had read so much about detritus/sponges/snails/worms getting in and causing the check valve to malfunction. Perhaps check valve technology has changed since I did my research?
The check valve I got has no metal so nothing to rust and fail. I also have a screen on the pump intake which should prevent any critters from getting in there. Plus, I do have room in the sump in case it did fail and the tank siphoned down to the return level. I was maybe a little paranoid and tried to double up safety features where I could.
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Old 12-15-2014, 11:01 PM
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I use threaded, but slip with unions works too. I just like that I can change my setup later to anything without rebuying a $30 valve. X2 on the not using check valves, even the plastic ones gum up, not worth it IMO.
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:58 AM
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I am also thinking of running either a Eheim 1262 or 1260 for my return pump.

1" hose from the pump to a ball valve then to a 3/4 hose and into my tank

Thoughts on how this should work? I want to split the pump with a T to return to but returns. (return is 3/4)
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Old 12-16-2014, 07:59 AM
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"return to but returns" makes no sense. Do you mean "both" not "but"?
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Old 12-16-2014, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashr View Post
I am also thinking of running either a Eheim 1262 or 1260 for my return pump.

1" hose from the pump to a ball valve then to a 3/4 hose and into my tank

Thoughts on how this should work? I want to split the pump with a T to return to but returns. (return is 3/4)
You have 2 returns that are 3/4s and you want to go from 1' and split into the 2?
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Old 12-16-2014, 05:40 PM
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Sorry. It was late haha. Yes I want to use a single pump to return flow to both returns on the tank. The return hole is 3/4 and so is the outlet on the pump. Is it worth switching the pump outlet to 1'' and run a 1'' pipe to a ball valve and then into a smaller 3/4 pipe to connect to my returns. Or would it be better to run 3/4 all the way.
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