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#1
11-24-2014, 06:05 AM
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Arduino Reef Monitor / Lighting Controller
Hey guys...
I think it's time I start shedding some light on my upcoming build. Arduino Reef Monitor ( ARM ) Based on an Arduino Due and the East Rising ER-TFT070-5 ( Data Sheet in link ) this will act as the main controller and display. Sensor Module: There is no point of trying to hack and and design something that already exists. I'm probably going to use Open Reefs Senseable for this purpose. Light Module: This unit will be an Arduino Due shield. There is little to nothing on the market that is aimed at the DIY hobbyist for salt water use. Here's a few key points: - 24V to 48VDC Fused Input - On Boards regulators for the 3.3V and 5V required by the Due ( No external power source required!) - 12Ch LED Drivers ( LDD-1000HS ) - RTC ( DS1307 ) - On board Input Voltage and Current Monitors ( Linear LTC2946 ) All Electronics will be housed in waterproof enclosure with waterproof connectors. 
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#2
11-24-2014, 07:38 AM
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Hooooo-boy! That's a heck of a build! That'll be a fun one but a bit if a slog! I just finished something similar (not for my tanks, but for some equipment at work, but similar architecture) and it took 200 hours to build the electronics, the equipment and program it! The worst part was that I had only 2 weeks to do it...
If you have a need for custom PCBs, I can point you in the direction of a few good places I have used... But then again, if you know how to design a board you probably know where to have them made! Have fun!
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#4
11-24-2014, 02:14 PM
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That open Reef Stuff looks really interesting. I was going to do a Jarduino build a year or two back but with my work schedule an Apex was just more feasible. I bought all the parts for it, just never got around to assembly.
Definitely following along
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#5
11-24-2014, 09:09 PM
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I have the Arduino Due and the LCD... can get most of the stuff here in town that i need for the better part. The parts for the light fixture will be coming off eBay.
I also have a hot air rework station and the skill to go along with it to so everything SMT if need be. The electronic side its going to be a piece of cake! The programing might be another story ! I haven't done anything in a VERY LONG time LOL I hope I can get a copy of his code and change a few things... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-XwAnYvdk4
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#6
11-26-2014, 12:19 AM
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Well...
Today was a slow day at work, which led me think a bit. How can I make things simple and avoid a ton of redundant parts without tying up the PWM outputs of the Due Long story short... Here's the answer !!! TI's LM3463 !! Some of the Key Features that are of interest to us: - Wide supply voltage range 12V - 95V - 6 driven channels ( using MOSFET's - Capable of Analog, PWM dimming OR Serial Control Right now the only thing I'm debating is the output stage. In order to keep the board size down I would have to go to a TO220 through hole transistor over the DPAK surface mount units. This way a heat sink can be used rather than using precious board space as a heat sink. With that being said... Light Control Module ( LCM ) specs I have in mind are as follows: - 12V - 48VDC Input - 6 Channels - High Current Capable - Full Control ( Analog, PWM or Serial ) Last edited by _Adrian_; 11-26-2014 at 12:22 AM.
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#7
11-26-2014, 12:42 AM
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The idea behind this is to reduce the large amount of DC/DC converters ( LDD1000h ) and replace it with a cheaper device ( MOSFET ) that outperforms it.
A better way of going about this is the Vishay SUP50N10. This MOSFET is capable of 50A continuous ( 60A peak ) drain current and 100V are around $1.25 VS the $10 for each LDD1000h which has a puny 1A output. By moving away from dedicated, expensive DC/DC Current and robbing useful PWM outputs from the micro controller. Now you can drive large chains of either serial or parallel LED's without breaking your wallet! As stated earlier, on board Input Voltage and Current Monitor will be retained. With a bit of code and this can be used to track power consumption. This might just be the ultimate solution for those that want a flexible DIY High Power LED Driver / Controller that would allows to start off with a basic setup and move up as budget allows! Last edited by _Adrian_; 11-26-2014 at 12:57 AM.
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#8
11-27-2014, 02:41 AM
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Quote:
"The analog dimming control input controls the current of all LEDs while the PWM control inputs control the dimming duty of output channels individually." with this one you could use the PWM to balance your colors and then use the analog to do your sunrise sunset Steve
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 *everything said above is just my opinion, and may or may not reflect the views of this BBS, its Operators, and its Members. If cornered on any “opinion” I post I will totally deny having ever said this in a Court of Law…Unless I am the right one*Some strive to be perfect.... I just strive.
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#9
11-27-2014, 03:03 AM
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Quote:
If you have a Reef Angel or similar controller you can use PWM, but if your just starting out and have nothing you cans use some simple pots to control the channels. For those that want something more different, the Arduino route can be used with I2S and a program can be written for control. Also I noticed something weird this morning... There's only 4 hard wired dim controls. Seems like Channels 1 and 2 share the same dimmer as well as 3 and 4 share another. channels 5 and 6 are individually controlled. I sent TI an email to clarify this for me as if this is only a PWM or Analog control only or does it apply to serial control as well. Keeping fingers crossed either way as sometimes its just a matter of not having enough pins on the device.
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#10
03-24-2015, 06:09 AM
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Well...
Its time for an update!!! Had a hella time with remembering on how to use Altium LOL Schematic for the LME3463 and drivers are almost laid out. Have to call the TI tech line to have a quick chat with an engineer to settle my mind as I been at this for about 6 hrs now with no break and I'm about burnt out! Aiming for 3-5A MAX per channel... so ramping, current limiting and start-up current control are critical to keep heat dissipation to a minimum as well as keeping a constant voltage and constant current to the LED's. I'm about 80% done now and if everything checks out with the TI boys i will start laying out the prototype boards VERY SOON !! The boards will be set up in a "UNIVERSAL" mode with jumpers to select between Analog, PWM or Serial control and I'm hopeing to keep them around 2" x 4" and 3" x 5" Most of the PCB will be SMD ( surface mount) beside the FET's which will be T0220 devices. This way a smaller PCB can be used, but FET's will require a heatsink depending on the draw and dissipation.
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Linear Mode
