Wow looks great. Totally doing the opposite of my "spend almost no money" planned nano.

:lol: My Spec failed. I forgot to top it up for a week. Yours is going to be awesome.

After six months of reefing, I'm starting to figure out my style. I'm a gadget geek and a control freak. And, due to my stupidly busy life I really need to automate as much as possible to keep things thriving.

I wish I could do simple, but it makes me hyperventilate.

I forgot to mention . . . The fans inside the stand, the splitter cable, the 12V adapter, and the 12V power supply all came from Modular LED.

Wow this is coming along nicely! Amazing what a little paint and new hardwear can do.

Thanks, Laurie. :) It isn't perfect, but it is so much better than it was! I'm very pleased that the canreef folks pushed me to go ahead and do it.

If those are 12V fans and you have 12V power supply consider wiring the two fans in series so they run at 6V instead of 12V. It'll be much quieter and still more than enough air exchange. I always find such fans to be overly noisy if run at full power.

Build looks good so far, curious to see the final LED layout :wink:

Hmm. These fans have two settings. They seem pretty quiet. If I decide to change it, would Memory Express have the required cable?

LED layout:

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1d337d8f.jpg

They don't actually work yet, however. :cry:

Excuse my ugly epoxy mess. :o

The stand looks great! Makes me think I may have to build a stand for my entry to compete, I was just going to throw mine on an old dresser in a spare bedroom.:sad:

My 40 gallon started off as a 10 gallon, on an old dresser in my bedroom. I really liked it there. :) It fit on the dresser perfectly, and the moonlights were very nice at night.

Well if they are quite then nevermind :razz: but if you do need to slow them down it's an easy option instead of buying another power supply. No cable but easy to rewire by taking red wire from fan 1 to + power, black wire from fan 1 to red fan 2, followed by black fan 2 to - power.

LED layout looks good, why doesn't it work?

I'm guessing I did something wrong. I haven't figured out what, though.

The Apex works. The VDM appears to work. The lights on the eln-60-48p drivers don't work. The issue isn't with the lights, as when tested independently of the drivers they work.

I'm thinking it may actually be an issue with a splice: specifically the ones that run to the VDM. I'm going to pull all the wiring apart, redo the splices, and check again. Hubby is going to help me trouble shoot this.

In the event we can't get it fixed, I may need to recruit a guy I know (*cough**cough*) who happens to be really good at this stuff. ;) While I really want to do it myself, this is very much a make it or break it part of the build.

Not to point out the obvious but you know ELN-60-48P drivers are PWM controlled right? Shouldn't you be using ELN-60-48D drivers which are 0-10V? I actually haven't done that much with meanwell or APEX but I believe APEX is 0-10V based and you need the D drivers.

Oops! My bad. It is the 48D drivers that I've got.

Everything looks like it should work.

Have you tried supplying the meanwells with a straight 10V signal?

Not yet. When I get the opportunity to work on it again I'll try a 9V battery to start. From what I've read, that is what most people do. I have wiring to do that, I just don't have the batteries yet.

I have a 0-13V VDC moonlight driver (for the four blue LEDs), but I'm hesitant to try that. Do you think it would supply too much power? Or, would the variable nature of that driver render the experiment useless?

This has been a huge exercise in frustration. I'm electrically stupid, and no matter how much I read, or how much I try, I just don't get it. My brain just isn't wired for it. ;)

You could use a potentiometer with that power supply to test the dimming. Not sure I'd hit it with 13v even though I doubt it would cause any damage but without knowing for sure I just wouldn't.

So how did you get the lights working without the drivers and how did you verify the Apex and dimming module are working correctly?

The moonlight driver lights up two boards at a time. All of the boards were tested with that. And, the meanwell drivers will light up a few of the boards at a time when dimming power isn't supplied, but not everything in the string. One of the drivers will light five boards and the other one will light four (these are very dim, however). There are seven boards (14LEDs) on the RB series. There are six boards (12 LEDs) on the CW/NW string. According to the specs, the drivers will run 8-14 LEDs. The two blue boards are on a the little moonlight driver, and they work (at least something works!).

I'm thinking it has to be an issue with the apex dimming cable splice. The Meanwell drivers supply power (one supplies 24V and the other at 16V).

I reviewed the "Unofficial User Manual", and followed the instructions in that. I also consulted threads in the Neptune forum on RC. I'm 99% sure that the Apex and/or VDM aren't the issue. But, if the 9V test works, the issue will have to be with the original splice, the Apex and/or VDM. If it works, I'll just try hooking up the Apex/VDM again to see what happens. If it doesn't work with the second splice to the Apex . . . then it is the Apex.

I used the 3M Scotchlok connectors on the splice: which was dumb. I should have verified that everything worked before I used those. Now I have to cut those out, which I have to admit that I'm trying to avoid doing. The connectors are cheap, but I hate to lose any wire length.

I don't think there is a potentiometer in the house. I should pick one up. I just didn't realize it would be a good thing to have for troubleshooting purposes.

It has taken three Modular LED orders to get to this point. I'm hoping there won't be a fourth. Of course, I've totally modified the original kit . . . so the number of orders reflects my level of preparedness and understanding: not Martin's kit. :o

There's a surprise on my desk this morning. :) It must have arrived yesterday, when I was off work taking care of my little guy (who was ill).

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...ps11e718fa.jpg

Aquarium supply retailers are trying to make me fat:
http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6dda51b6.jpg

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...psf281e568.jpg

I was going to build the media basket out of egg crate for this build . . . but these media baskets are so pretty and nicely made. I just couldn't bring myself to do use egg crate.

So I guess this is one thing that wasn't an absolute necessity that I bought anyway. :o

That is pretty nice :biggrin:

Woohoo!

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5a28e64a.jpg

I've been fighting with these for a while. Hubby and I just completed a marathon troubleshooting session.

In the royal blue string, there was one bad connector and one bent connection pin. In the white series there was a bad dimming splice.

It looks like I'll be dimming the whites a lot more than the royal blues. My white ratio is higher than it really should be. But, I've got the Apex all programmed and figured out for this, so that'll be easy.

There are four blue LEDs that are being run off of a little moonlight driver.

Now I just need to get them mounted. :)

(The concise details of this build, and the materials list, will be posted at a later date)

Thats freakin awesome. - I am very tempted to build a set of lights !

Glad you got the lights working that must be a relief.

Now that they're working I can say that I would certainly do it again. The learning curve was pretty big for me, and by Thursday evening I was ready to file them under "G" and reassemble the original lighting. Thankfully, hubby intervened.

There is still some tweaking to be done (supplemental LEDs, heatsink installation in the hood, etc.), but you're right. Having them turn on when power is supplied is a huge relief. It is such a make it or break it part of the build. My entire purpose for this build (an SPS appropriate system) was hanging on this.

I almost made a hysterical phone call to sphelps from an electronic supply place yesterday (but reason intervened :lol:). Neither hubby or the gent behind the counter could figure out what potentiometer was required, and I didn't know enough to give them the info they required. In the end, the one we purchased worked.

I'm mulling over fish. Does anyone know of nano suitable fish that aren't overly messy? Being that this system needs to be low nutrient, I don't want to add a really messy fish.

In looking at my display tank, my green chromis are probably the least messy. I could put them in here (my 40 is overstocked . . . But it will become a ~100g in Feb-March). I'm not fond of them, however. They hide most of the time, and aren't particularly interesting.

I just don't know. I've posted three threads, on three different forums, and I'm just not gettting answers. Maybe there is no answer?

Purple firefish maybe? They are pretty and not messy. Also trimma gobies and clown gobies are cool. If you want to keep the tank low nutrient you can also run the prodibio biokit for nano reefs.

Catalina Goby
http://www.liveaquaria.com/images/ca...alina-goby.jpg

Yellow Banded Possum Wrasse
http://www.liveaquaria.com/images/ca...ossum-Wras.jpg

Or white Banded..
http://www.liveaquaria.com/images/ca...sum-wrasse.jpg

Tanaka Pygmy Wrasse
http://www.liveaquaria.com/images/ca...sum-wrasse.jpg

Wow! Some nice options. Thanks, both of you. :)

Catalina gobies are cool but also need cold water temps 68-74 to survive long term.

Drat! Another one that likes those temps. Maybe I should investigate keeping a lower temp reef.

There is tons of goby options for small tanks. I love the neon gobys and trimma gobys :)
Also glad to read about your light working correctly!

Nice work on the lights, should look great on the tank.

I'm feeling very pleased right now . . .

(the whites are dimmed in this photo, while the RB and B are 100%).

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...psfe45fe1b.jpg

You know your help was invaluable, right? Claymax and Ross were a huge help, too.

For those who missed it . . . this is how the LED placement evolved:
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89518

Mmmmmmm... Fancy

Nice! Even the picture of the lights is bright on the eyes!

The lights are so bright that at 100% they make you feel like throwing up. Seriously. Hubby, my #1 son (who is about to turn 19), and myself all had to fight the urge to hurl when hubby and I were troubleshooting them. #2 son (who is about to turn 4) wasn't even allowed in the room.

They may be dimmed a lot on the tank.

That's intense! (little pun there) Wow, 15 years between kids, good for you. My girls are 5 years apart, after the second one was born my wife sent me off to the doctor to get cured for that thing that causes pregnancy.:sad:

24 Gallon Nano Cube LED Build

Materials List
(All Items Except “Additional” Purchased from Modular LED)

Heatsink

• 1x 5.9x9 inch aluminium

LEDs

• 4x Cool White XP-E Modular LED (8 LEDs)
• 2x Neutral White XP-E High Efficiency Modular LED (4 LEDs)
• 7x Royal Blue XP-E Modular LED (14 LEDs)
• 2x Blue XP-E Modular LED (4 LEDs)

Drivers

• 2x Mean Well ELN-60-48D
• 1x 350mA Constant Current Moonlight Driver

Connectors & Cables

• 10x 4inch Standard Connectors
• 1x 6inch Standard Connector
• 1x 2inch Standard Connector
• 3x Start & End Kit Connectors
• 9x 12inch Extension Connectors
• 1x 2 Channel Apex to Light Dimming Cable
• 2x Power Cord
• 2x 3M Scotchlok - Waterproof Power Cord Connector
• Arctic Alumina Thermal Glue

Additional

• Homemade ground cords [2x Ground Wire Eyelets, 2x 36inch 16 Gauge Wire] (Active Electronics)
• Electrical Tape (Hubby's Toolbox)
• 10x Insulated Butt Connectors (Hubby's Toolbox)
• 2x 14x1x1/8inch Barstock Aluminum [cut from 8foot piece] (Princess Auto)
• High heat dual stage epoxy (Hubby's Toolbox)

Gutting the Hood

Gutting the hood was pretty easy. It really just boiled down to removing all of the screws.

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...gair/hood1.jpg

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...gair/hood2.jpg

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...ps146480ce.jpg

The hardest part was getting the switch out of this hole:

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...0908-00105.jpg

Yes, there is an ugly hole in the top of the lid. We'll come back to that sometime in the future.

The Unboxing of the first Modular LED order
(there were three orders in total)

Aquarium supply retailers are definitely trying to make me fat (I love chocolate):

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...0907-00089.jpg

Not everything in this image was used in the LED build:

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...0907-00090.jpg

LED Placement

With the help of fellow Canreefers, the LED placement evolves from this:

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...0907-00091.jpg

To this:

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...psaca69126.jpg

The evolution of the light placement is documented here:

http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89518
Some supplemental LEDs may be added at a later date.

The royal blues will be on one dimmable driver, the whites on the other, and the blues on a little moonlight driver.

Assembly

I assembled what I had:

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...0907-00098.jpg

I used waaaaay too much of the Arctic Alumina Thermal Glue when I attached the LEDs. Good thing I doubled my order on that in my first order. I have a hard time showing restraint with adhesives. The LED connector wires were very easy to use.

I then ordered what I still required in the way of new LED boards, wiring, and a little moonlight driver. The second order arrived, and I realized that I'm an idiot (I had forgotten the start/end kit wiring for the blue string that was going on the little moonlight driver!). I placed order #3.

After order #3 arrived, I completed the LED layout and wiring.

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1d337d8f.jpg

They didn't work. Or rather, the lights didn't light up with the Meanwells. All of the lights were tested using the moonlight driver, and they all appeared to work correctly.

As it turns out the first problem in getting them to work was in not completing the dimming circuit (according to Martin from Modular LED that is a very common mistake). With the Mean Well ELN-60-48D drivers the dimming circuit MUST be completed for the lights to turn on. The easiest way to do that is with a 9V battery. I had tried to complete the circuit with the Apex VDM module, but trying to figure out how the VDM (Variable Speed/Dimming Module ) worked and troubleshoot the lights proved to be fruitless.

Additionally, after a marathon troubleshooting session with hubby, I had one bad splice on the dimming circuit for one of the drivers. There was also one bad 4inch Standard Connector and one bent connection pin in one of the plugs on the LED boards.

Once all of the circuits were properly completed . . . we had liftoff!

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5a28e64a.jpg

And, just an FYI, hubby and I trying to troubleshoot the lights together was actually WORSE than us trying to get the travel trailer hooked up and or/backed into a space. I'm going to do my best to forget 90% of the crap we said to each other while working on these lights.

I did something dumb when I originally wired everything. I used all of the little 3m Scotchlok Waterproof connectors (http://www.modularled.ca/3m-scotchlo...oof-connector/ ) from Martin before I tested anything. During the troubleshooting process they all had to be cut out. I had to use insulated butt connectors and electrical tape stolen from Hubby's toolbox to complete the wiring. The two big ones (http://www.modularled.ca/3m-scotchlo...ord-connector/) for the driver power cords didn't have to be cut out. It is definitely a good idea to test the wiring before making permanent connections.

I opted to build my own ground wires, to get the length that I needed for them.

Mounting the Heatsink to the Hood

Here is the original discussion with regards to mounting the heatsink:
http://www.canreef.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=89546

It gets pretty dicey here. I suggest no one take the same route . . . until mine has been thoroughly tested!

I cut two 14” pieces from an 8' length of 1x1/8” flat-bar aluminum.

Then I drilled holes in the two pieces that aligned with the screw hole locations in the hood.

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...ps810041ad.jpg

Then I attached the flat-bar using the original screws.

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...0923-00158.jpg

Then (you're going to be really horrified, now), I used a flexible, two-stage, high heat epoxy to attached the heatsink to the aluminum flat-bar. I sanded both before hand. I believe it was a Lepage product. Hubby handed it to me, and insisted that it was what I should be using. I was going to use JB Weld. At this point, I don't know how much faith of have in this installation.

If the heatsink falls off, it is his fault. ;)

I screwed the acrylic cover back on . . . and I'm done!

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...0923-00162.jpg

Both Meanwells at 100% and the moondriver:

http://i1035.photobucket.com/albums/...0923-00163.jpg

I'm pretty sure a 747 could be landed using this fixture for guidance.

:lol: Oh, I didn't plan it that way. It just "kinda happened." :o I've been trying to convince hubby to get "cured" . . . it isn't working. I turn 40 in Feb. He turned 40 in August. We're done! I can accept it. He's not convinced yet. :eek:

Very good retro on the lights and the only thing being "cured" should be the rocks lol
Oops pun attack.

Those lights look awesome and complicated! Amazing how it all fits in there :thumb: