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reefnut
07-16-2009, 04:21 PM
ive recently purchased a 96 gal tank.i got it for a good used price and my plan is to cut it down to fit my stand and re sillicone it.first question is that i have cut glass before but this is 3/8 and much thicker than i have experience with.do i just cut it the same way as thinner stuf f or is there any tips or tricks.i plan on cutting the length down about 4-6 inches and the width front to back about 2-4 inches it is 20 inches tall and has no bracing at all.should i add this?and as far as prepping for new sillicone what is the best method.i planned on scraping as much sillicone off as possible and using a solvent to finish it off.then clean all the glass with vinegar and dish soap followed by a thorough rinse.any thoughts or tips?ohh and can i get a proper sillicone from home depot?thanks for any help guys.

Clay&Chey
07-16-2009, 05:03 PM
myself i'd alter the stand to fit the tank. making glass cuts square and straight isnt the easiest thing. its easier and not so permanent to add to wood.

mark
07-16-2009, 05:20 PM
take a look in Dez's build thread, believe some tips there on drilling and cutting

reefnut
07-16-2009, 05:58 PM
thanks guys.i have no choice but to dismantle cause the bottom piece is cracked.the previous owner just silliconed another piece ontop.it leaks.so i thought i would adjust the size while i have it apart.

Dez
07-16-2009, 06:30 PM
Hi,

Taking the glass apart is the hardest part. I usually use a combination of razor blades (I just buy 100 at Home Depot) and guitar string. Wear gloves or wrap the string aroung a pipe or something to use as a handle on either side, then slowly work the guitar string back and forth to cut the silicone. Guitar string is dirt cheap.

Cleaning - second hardest part - I hate it. Again, use razor blades. Keep changing the blades to always have a sharp edge. Scrape as much as you can off. Keep doing it - the better you do this the easier the next step will be. Then you can use a wire brush (sandpaper might work but I've never tried it) and brush the remainder off. If you have a drill, then use a wire brush attachment. Be carefull to only go on the edge so that you don't scratch the glass.

Cutting - the easy part. Go to a stain glass shop and get a glass cutter (dont' get the cheap home depot scribe one - I've had less successful experiences with these as it's a scribe and not a wheel). You can get a nice glass cutter for under $20 at a stain glass shop (at least 5 years ago you could). Some will be oil filled, but not necessary. Mark out your lines (keep in might the glass cutter usually is about 1/8" away from the straight edge that you'll be using. Scribe it, you don't have to press hard and NEVER scribe twice. It's really easy, practice on scrap glass if you have any. 2 ways to "snap" it off - 1. hang the "leftover" section over a straight countertop and evenly snap it off - if your scribed line is down, snap in the direction of your scribe line (push the leftover section down) 2. Get pliers from the stained glass shop meant to break glass along scribe line - they'll tell you how to use it. It's not scary - really easy.

Siliconing - easy but messy. Clean glass with vinegar and newspaper (I learned this trick from the glass builder at Bow Valley years ago). Mask it off if you don't want it to be super messy, apply silicone and build. Use tape to hold together (fibreglass reinforced tape is what tank builders use because it doesn't stretch)

Hope that this helps.

(I am no pro, but I found it easy building quite a few small tanks in the past). Good luck and keep us updated.

Delphinus
07-16-2009, 06:44 PM
I find cutting old glass is hopelessly hit and miss, and mostly miss at that. Only ever gotten a predictable break line when the glass was perfectly (and I mean PERFECTLY) clean.

If it were me, I'd replace the bottom panel and adjust the stand size. I hate cutting glass. Dez has a golden horseshoe up his rear (sorry man but it's true) and things just "work" for him, if you're like me and basically on the complete other end of the luck spectrum, my suggestion is don't waste your time, you could wind up losing the whole tank.

Good luck whatever you decide, and have fun with it. :)

reefnut
07-16-2009, 07:26 PM
great advice thanks guys.ive got the tank apart now.used a razor and a .003" feeler gauge(destroyed the gauge but its apart)i hear ya on adjusting the stand and not the tank but that would mean stand,canopy overhaul as i would not be happy with the xtra overhang.my neww problem is that the entire tank is built with 3/8.the extra piece that was glued over the cracked bottom is only 1/4.originally i wanted to use the extra bottom to replace the cracked one as i was told it was at least 3/8.the bottom is non floating and sits flat on the stand wothout any trim.the ends and sides sit on top of the bottom.ya think 1/4 inch is enough if the overal measurements will be 40-42"long,20"inches high and 20 inches deep?sitting on a solid level surface.

Delphinus
07-16-2009, 09:13 PM
I wouldn't use 1/4" for the bottom on that size. :(

lastlight
07-16-2009, 09:31 PM
1/4" is bad enough on small tanks. I'd def get thicker.

reefnut
07-16-2009, 10:53 PM
so 3/8 should be good though right?

StirCrazy
07-16-2009, 11:02 PM
Hi,


Cutting - the easy part. Go to a stain glass shop and get a glass cutter (dont' get the cheap home depot scribe one - I've had less successful experiences with these as it's a scribe and not a wheel). You can get a nice glass cutter for under $20 at a stain glass shop .

you can save a lot of money going to home depot and buying a wheeled cutter. personaly I have never seen a drag scribe for glass.

if you do not buy one with an oiler make sure you use a bit of oil on the cutting wheel.. dip it in and then shake it a little. if you are only doing a small bit of cutting don't waist money on the tungston carbon wheels just get the regular hardened steel wheel and you will be looking at about 8 bucks. I used a bit of air tool oil as that what I had laying around but any light weight mineral oil will work.

I never used a wire wheel or brush when I did mine, just scrape with the razor blades real good till you can't see any silicone then I used acatone to clean any residual stuff off. the problem with the wire wheel or brush is you have to be very very carefull not to put any scratches in the area you are cutting as there will be a chance of the cut following the scratch instead of the cut line.

if it is going to be a critical cut use a strait edge to guide your cutter and start off the glass and continue to cut till you run off the end and no stopping along the way. it has to be one long fluid cut using constant pressure or you can cause chipping int he glass which can cause your break to run off instead of staying true. not as hard as it sounds.. I did a curved one free hand and it worked pretty good.

Steve

StirCrazy
07-16-2009, 11:10 PM
Hi,

if your scribed line is down, snap in the direction of your scribe line (push the leftover section down) 2. Get pliers from the stained glass shop meant to break glass along scribe line - they'll tell you how to use it. It's not scary - really easy.



hmm the glass shop out here showed me and told me the opposite. they explained it as your suposed to pull the scribe appart not compress it.. and they broke it down witht he scribe up...

here is a pic on how you are suposed to use running plyers.. if you notice the score is on the top and you are pushing up on the bottom middle to seperate the score and compress the bottom

http://www.twovoyagers.com/metamorphosis/images/run.gif

Dez
07-16-2009, 11:21 PM
hmm the glass shop out here showed me and told me the opposite. they explained it as your suposed to pull the scribe appart not compress it.. and they broke it down witht he scribe up...

here is a pic on how you are suposed to use running plyers.. if you notice the score is on the top and you are pushing up on the bottom middle to seperate the score and compress the bottom

http://www.twovoyagers.com/metamorphosis/images/run.gif

You are completely correct steve - I meant to go edit my post because I was on a business call while typing my original post, then I left to go do a work job and just got home and was about to edit it. Thanks for noticing the details Steve. It is tough to talk on the phone (and pretend you're interested) while typing on Canreef (which is more of an interest than work).

StirCrazy
07-16-2009, 11:59 PM
It is tough to talk on the phone (and pretend you're interested) while typing on Canreef (which is more of an interest than work).

:mrgreen: I have been there, oh to often LOL

Dez
07-17-2009, 04:27 AM
Have you figured out what you are going to do with the tank yet? Keep us updated.

Dez

reefnut
07-23-2009, 05:56 AM
well i managed to cut one piece and broke the other.after a trip to the local glass shop im ready to start putting this thing together.toatl measurements are 38"l x 20"h x 22"d.rough capacity is around 70 gal ish.two more question though,1.what is the best silicone to use?so far im planning on GE Silicone 1 100% silicone rubber,thoughts or suggestions please.2.im going to keep the joints as clean as possible and dont plan on any bracing at all, just the glass box, any thoughts on this?the original tank was 8" longer and had absolutley no bracing.the trim was mitered at each corner.thanks.

reefnut
07-23-2009, 07:16 AM
i was just reading another forum and have yet another question about this tank.it is a flat bottom.the botton pane si sitting on the stand and the side are butted up to it all around.how should i sit it.directly on the wood or with a piece of foam between tank and stand?

BlueAbyss
07-23-2009, 09:19 PM
I would place a thin piece of neoprene foam between the bottom of the tank and the stand... less chance of cracking the bottom pane from uneven 2x4s or whatever.

ALBERTA REEF
09-14-2009, 06:41 AM
I have found waxed dental floss (flavoured or not) works great. First remove all the inside and outside silicone (I will pile up and cause the floss to brake). start with the one panel at a time. I like to start with the small side panels. Slowly work the floss through. Keep running the flos through like doing your teeth. ever so often might have to clean the wax out. the floss will brake alot but once you fine the feel for it it cut eazy. Half way down the cut go to the opposite panel do the same. Then you can use a razor blade to slightly wedge the panels. Then continue with the seams. Once the one panel seams are completely cut then carefull rock that panel back and forth. While rocking you can run a razor blade or zip knife alone the seal. then repeat with the other panels. Keep in mined patience it will come apart. One note wear glove just in case. Good luck. :biggrin:

Ross
09-27-2009, 05:10 AM
GE Silicone 1 works great.
I have 2 tanks held together with it and no issues.
A 77 gallon (48w x 24t x 16d) and a 10 gallon Nano.

loveless
10-05-2009, 06:23 PM
I am looking into building my own sump atm. I talked to one glazier who said that the edges have to be polished. Am I being misinformed? He said that the polishing process is the expensive part, as it get done by linear inch.

Oh and btw the glass is 3/8 inch thick, his reason for the polishing in the first place as "its too thick to break cleanly"

So my question
Is polishing necessary?

loveless
10-05-2009, 07:18 PM
Never mind. I was quoted over $1000 for 3/8 plate. So I will make doo with 1/4 inch instead. It was quoted at $300. Slight price diff.

Dez
10-05-2009, 09:16 PM
Hello loveless,

Have you considered just buying a stock sized tank and adding whatever baffles you want in there? Try to find one used if your patient. Or even a new stock sized tank would be cheaper than $300 for the glass right? I have a ton of 1/4" glass for baffles if you need and can help you cut it. My labour is cheap, I will trade for future frags. Just a thought.

Hope this helps your decision.

Dez
10-05-2009, 09:17 PM
I am looking into building my own sump atm. I talked to one glazier who said that the edges have to be polished. Am I being misinformed? He said that the polishing process is the expensive part, as it get done by linear inch.

Oh and btw the glass is 3/8 inch thick, his reason for the polishing in the first place as "its too thick to break cleanly"

So my question
Is polishing necessary?

Oh yeah, I built my own overflow and it was all 3/8" glass that I cut myself - no polished edges.

banditpowdercoat
10-05-2009, 09:21 PM
Ive cut 3/8" before too no problems. Just took a large wetstone to the edges to knock off the sharpness. Ive also had good luck using a flapper disk on an angle grinder for glass. Just lightly run it on the edge. Makes the sharpness dissapear, but kinda stinks when you do it

loveless
10-05-2009, 10:41 PM
Thanks for the reply. I wanted a custom size for the space I have, 24x48x16 high. For me the problem with stock tanks is they are narrow and tall. Thanks for the thoughts tho.

jimskoi
10-06-2009, 11:49 AM
Polishing is really just them sanding the edges with a sander.It takes off all the sharpness on the edges.Most places do it automatically.Saves them and others from seriously cutting themselves.
its usually in the cost of the price of cutting.

StirCrazy
10-06-2009, 01:57 PM
Polishing is really just them sanding the edges with a sander.It takes off all the sharpness on the edges.Most places do it automatically.Saves them and others from seriously cutting themselves.
its usually in the cost of the price of cutting.

actualy last time i got glass cut there was honed, which is what your talking about where they just knock off the edges. Ground where they make it flat, and pollished where they make it clear. honed was free, ground was a little bit of a charge and pollished was expensive.

Steve

jimskoi
10-06-2009, 03:51 PM
Different places do different things.
The place I usually go to sands it down to a polish finish and they have never charged extra for it(that I know of).Its always included.It does make it alot nicer when they do this.I usually buy the glass to make aquariums or for sumps.