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lastlight
04-10-2014, 11:28 PM
I'm assuming the controller for my pump is to blame. For the past few days the pump has been turning off and then back on after a few seconds. Early this morning it turned off but did not come back on. The unit still lights up and responds to the pressing of it's buttons but the pump does nothing. The impeller assembly spins freely there's just nothing happening.

So my questions is, can I cut the power cables and connect the pump directly to the power supply? I'm assuming the brick is converting the AC to DC and not the little speed controller but I could be wrong. I already cut the wires and found only two exiting the brick and 3 entering the pump. One of the three appears to be a ground wire.

Red and white wires from the brick. Blue, red and a green/yellow entering the pump.

I don't trust this thing for regular duty and have a mag 18 running in its place. I would however like to use it for maintenance jobs like pump new sw into my sump etc when needed.

roblarss
04-10-2014, 11:57 PM
I dont think there is a way without a controller of some sort. The wires are 24v+, negative, and pwm (speed control) signal.

The power supply is just converting AC to 24VDC.

I have one connected to an arduino giving a pwm signal for ramp up/down.

I just had my power supply replaced under warranty on one of my pumps. Showed up very fast. I think its a one year warranty.

lastlight
04-11-2014, 12:06 AM
yeah my supply is still ok as far as i know. bummer i can't connect the pump directly to it. i had a good laugh at the sticker on the brick warning me to not open the supply. my supply literally FELL open when i picked it up. i never removed screws or anything lol.

roblarss
04-11-2014, 12:22 AM
its possible it is your power supply. Mine had the green light on and when turned up on the control pad the light would go out briefly and then back on. It also made a buzzing noise when loaded up.

jordsyke
04-11-2014, 03:08 AM
yea the power supplys suck on these pumps , i am already replacing one

nrosdal
04-11-2014, 05:32 AM
If you run any kind of controller you can just order the jebao cable from reef angel and run the regular power supply and have the apex or whatever controller you have tell it to be on or off.

The Grizz
04-11-2014, 05:39 AM
Hey Brett I had the same issue with a Waveline 12000, I switched out the power supply and its all good now.

lastlight
04-11-2014, 04:28 PM
Thanks guys. Refuse to spend more money to get this POS working again. I'll be just as happy to go smash it in an alley for all the headaches it gave me =)

mike31154
04-11-2014, 05:11 PM
If you have a multimeter at home, it would be an idea to check the output of the power supply to confirm that it's providing 24 volts. Alternatively, you could connect a couple of car batteries in series to act as a 24 volt DC supply & hook that to your controller. This would at least confirm which component is unserviceable, the power supply or the controller.

Without any kind of schematic, it's near impossible to troubleshoot any further than that. I assume that the pump itself could be run on a straight DC signal, anywhere from 12 to 24 volts should get it kickstarted, but that's just a guess without any further data or schematics. The green/yellow wire to the pump is very likely a safety ground, but could also be a signal wire for control. Without confirming it's function, probably not a good idea to hook it directly to a DC supply.

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_5/chpt_2/2.html

Ron99
04-11-2014, 06:04 PM
I'm using mine with a 19V universal laptop power supply. So if you have a laptop power supply handy, or anything that puts out 15V to 24 V you can see if the pump runs. I believe the pumps won't run properly with less than 15V but I may be wrong on that as I haven't tried it.

lastlight
04-11-2014, 06:06 PM
your laptop supply puts out dc? do they all?

plus i still have the issue of the pump having 3 input wires...

roblarss
04-11-2014, 07:28 PM
As far as im aware you still need to use the controller supplied or a similar device. The replacement power supply will only supply voltage to the pump. The 3rd wire will tell the pump how fast to run.

A spare power supply will though tell you if the controller is really at fault or if its an issue of the power supply, which is fairly common.

Ron99
04-11-2014, 08:00 PM
Yup, it puts out 19V DC. You would plug it into the controller to see if the pump works and that would tell you if it's the power supply or the controller as roblarss suggests. Usually any power supply will have a label that tells you the output so if you can find one at home that puts out 15 to 24V DC you could try it to see if the pump runs.

mike31154
04-11-2014, 08:24 PM
Whatever power supply you do find, also make sure it has sufficient wattage rating to run the pump. It's not just about volts.... so for a 2640 model like yours, you need at least 85 watts, 100 would be better. My ancient Compaq notebook power supply produces 18.5 volt & 120 watts.

mike31154
04-11-2014, 08:41 PM
As far as im aware you still need to use the controller supplied or a similar device. The replacement power supply will only supply voltage to the pump. The 3rd wire will tell the pump how fast to run.

A spare power supply will though tell you if the controller is really at fault or if its an issue of the power supply, which is fairly common.

If you check out the link I provided earlier on wire colour coding, green/yellow is most likely a safety ground. Seems like a pretty universally accepted convention. That would make the red & blue positive & negative DC supply wires & the pump should run with the appropriate voltage applied there, sans controller.

It's unlikely that a pump in this price range is going to have much sophistication housed within the pump itself, like control circuit feedback wiring. It simply reacts to varying voltage provided by the controller. Will run at a constant speed if presented with a constant voltage. I believe it's also a submersible pump, so a safety ground wire (green/yellow) is probably a very good idea.

And yes, any spare power supply will help determine which component is not working as advertised, even if you don't hook it directly to the pump.

roblarss
04-11-2014, 09:27 PM
pump side 3 pin connector with the dimple up is 24vdc right, gnd (-), left, 0-5v signal on bottom.

you should be able to test pump with low voltage between 0 and 5v on the bottom pin. 24v + is on right pin. common ground on the left pin for both.

This pump is same as the wp pump and has same pin standard...at least mine do.

kien
04-15-2014, 11:41 PM
I vote for smashing. HULK SMASH!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ron99
04-15-2014, 11:44 PM
Personally, I think the pumps are fairly good. It's the power supplies that are crap and either die or fry the controller or pump. I managed to get a good deal on a new pump sans power supply and just bought the laptop power supply to run it. I'm hoping that proves more reliable.