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Aquattro
06-27-2004, 04:12 AM
So I finally fired up the new chiller tonight. Very easy to hook up, easier to configure and the temp probe is built into the unit so I can put the chiller remote from the tank.
Several people warned about the noise from these things, but I can hardly hear it. It isn't silent, but certainly isn't going to disturb me even with it being in the livingroom.
I'll update this in a few days, once it's had a chance to chill and stuff.

DOO-E
06-27-2004, 04:21 AM
Chillers are expensive i hpe this works out for you. But i guess they are cheaper than replacing your fish inverts and corals when they all die because your tank it too hot. Good luck with it and lets hope i dont have to buy one it might break my wallet :sad: good luck

reefer_11
06-27-2004, 05:52 AM
You'll like it Brad. Good chiller. I run mine indoors in the winter to heat my place. Outside in the summer.

And it is quiet enough to have indoors. Quietest I have heard.

Aquattro
06-27-2004, 06:49 AM
Darren, I'm not sure that I'll get full appreciation for the heating the room feature, but so far it's dropping the temp quite well for the fishies. :razz:

reefer_11
06-27-2004, 04:19 PM
I am not talking heating the room.. I am talking apartment.. :razz:

and your fishies will love ya for it. :) So will BC Hydro...

Aquattro
06-27-2004, 04:40 PM
So far the heat isn't bad at all. I find though that the temp on the unit says 79, but the actual water temp is 80.5 (w/lab grade thermometer). How accurate is yours? Do you know if it's adjustable too?

reefer_11
06-27-2004, 05:50 PM
mine goes the otehr way. Tank temp is 78.9. controller says 80. ;) Tho I am not using a lab grade thermometer..

and I thought it was adjustable. somehow. darned if I can't find the manual now.. or where I had read it..

Aquattro
06-29-2004, 05:57 PM
OK, so here is the results. To qualify these, here are some details. Before the chiller, my tank would hit 89 F at the end of the day running 2 x 400w MH, 10 inches off the water. This was using a high output fan across the top of the tank. Canopy open 24/7. Total water volume, ~150g.

I added the chiller on Sunday. I lowered the MH lamps to 5 inches from the water, added a third 400w lamp (same height), removed the fan and closed up the canopy. My tank starts the day at 79.8F. So far, the water temp has not gone over 81.7 at the end of the day. This makes me happy.

The chiller does add heat to the room, but I've located it under a large open window. The noise is about the same as the fan I removed, so a net change of 0 for noise.
Overall, I am happy with this product and would recommend it for tanks up to 180g as suggested by the manufacturer.

Bryan
06-30-2004, 03:17 AM
What size or model number do you have ?

The chiller does add heat to the room, but I've located it under a large open window. The noise is about the same as the fan I removed, so a net change of 0 for noise.
Overall, I am happy with this product and would recommend it for tanks up to 180g as suggested by the manufacturer.

kari
06-30-2004, 03:40 AM
Just to add to Brad's observations, mine is doing fine on a 195gal ( no canopy, 2- 250watt halides, 2-110 vho, 2-40 no, swack of pumps, no open window and located in the basement. The unit only kicks in when outdoor temp gets to 27c . Whole basement get hot when it kicks in. I need to make myself install an exhaust fan. The chiller has been in use over one year with zero problems.

zulu_principle
06-30-2004, 04:29 AM
Brad

Is it running pretty much most of the afternoon ??


Wendell

Aquattro
06-30-2004, 04:37 AM
Bryan, it's the 1/4hp CL650.

Wendell, I'm not home all afternoon, but it comes on probably half of every hour after dinner until about 9 or 10. I suspect it will run a lot during the next 2 months, but that will balnace out over the year (I hope).

Bryan
06-30-2004, 04:40 AM
Darn, I was hoping you were going to say it was the 1/10hp model.

Aquattro
06-30-2004, 04:42 AM
Darn, I was hoping you were going to say it was the 1/10hp model.

I know what you mean, but really, it's still a good deal for the price. Not sure what size tank you're running, but Jayson has the 1/6 hp on sale for Canada day.

Aquattro
07-06-2004, 07:53 PM
OK, I encountered one downfall. I blew the fuse on the chiller sometime yesterday, and so far I have not been able to find a replacement. It's a 10A mini fuse, which is just not too popular around these parts!! :rolleyes:

yagimax
07-07-2004, 12:52 AM
Brad, did you try Quaile Electronics ?


Gary

Aquattro
07-07-2004, 12:58 AM
Brad, did you try Quaile Electronics ?


Gary

No, they were too far from the office for me to go at lunch.. I think they'll have them, I just need to get by there sometime.

yagimax
07-07-2004, 01:16 AM
Brad, I can stop by Q.E. and pick some up , I seem to drive near Burnside on a daily basis doing service calls around town.
I use the companies gas so no problem. :lol:

Gary

Aquattro
07-07-2004, 03:28 AM
Gary, that would be great, but I'll let you know for sure tomorrow. I might be able to swing by there on my way to work in the morning.

LostMind
07-07-2004, 03:52 AM
Brad, I got a spare fuse in my instruction booklet. Did you not get a spare fuse?

Aquattro
07-07-2004, 03:59 AM
Brad, I got a spare fuse in my instruction booklet. Did you not get a spare fuse?

I thought I did, but hell if I can find it. :rolleyes:

titus
07-07-2004, 03:40 PM
Hello,

Awesome. I ordered 3 CL-280 sitting at the port still waiting to be picked up. I can't wait to get my hands on them.

Titus

whaase
07-14-2004, 12:37 AM
OK, I encountered one downfall. I blew the fuse on the chiller sometime yesterday, and so far I have not been able to find a replacement. It's a 10A mini fuse, which is just not too popular around these parts!! :rolleyes:

Don't you want to find out why it blew before replacing it?

Walter

Aquattro
07-14-2004, 01:15 AM
Don't you want to find out why it blew before replacing it?

Walter

Kinda need to get it running to determine that. But pretty sure it was the same reason the next 4 blew :razz:
Too much heat. I had tried to place it under a table, but the ambient temp got too hot and caused it to blow. I moved the table, and all is well.

whaase
07-14-2004, 01:19 AM
Don't you want to find out why it blew before replacing it?

Walter

Kinda need to get it running to determine that. But pretty sure it was the same reason the next 4 blew :razz:
Too much heat. I had tried to place it under a table, but the ambient temp got too hot and caused it to blow. I moved the table, and all is well.

Hmmm, sounds like you need to get a air conditioner to cool your chiller to cool you tank :lol: On a serious note, do you have central A/C? Would they help keep the tank at a normal temp? I've been quoted $1400 for central air, seems like a better way to go for the money...

Walter

Aquattro
07-14-2004, 02:02 AM
I don't have central air, and I don't think I'd want it. I have windows and the ocean isn't that far away. Almost always a cool breeze going by. The cost of running CA would also be a lot more than a 5amp chiller. And we only have about 10 days total that I would actually want to air condition my house. I don't even use the AC in my van.

whaase
07-14-2004, 02:08 AM
I don't have central air, and I don't think I'd want it. I have windows and the ocean isn't that far away. Almost always a cool breeze going by. The cost of running CA would also be a lot more than a 5amp chiller. And we only have about 10 days total that I would actually want to air condition my house. I don't even use the AC in my van.

You sure know how to make me jelous! :lol: Hmmm, a cool ocean breeze. I've never had the experience yet. :eek: I always have a/c on in the truck, but then again, I'd rather it rain than be hot and sunny...

Walter

AJ_77
07-14-2004, 02:35 AM
I have windows and the ocean isn't that far away. Almost always a cool breeze going by.

:cry:

Aquattro
07-14-2004, 02:46 AM
OK, sorry about that. I't not like I just walk down to the ocean.

I have to actually drive (for about 6 minutes, hehe) :razz:

LostMind
07-14-2004, 03:19 AM
I can see the burrard inlet from my balconey :)

But even so, I run central air. It helps a lot, the tank stays about 10degrees above ambient in my place. Since I like the house at 74 though, the tank was running at 84... a bit too hot for me. Which is why I bought the chiller.

Personally, I think the central air rocks. Nothing like coming home to a cool house when outside is boiling hot - like today. And my hydro bill isnt so bad. If I recall correctly, I think it was $350 for 62 days this last bill.

AC running every day.
4 x 400wMH running everyday
3 tanks full of equipment running
1 chiller
6 pc's (and one laptop)
big ass TV/entertainment system running every evening for 4-6 hours (my fiancee is hooked on TV)
etc...

Doug
07-14-2004, 12:50 PM
I don't have central air, and I don't think I'd want it. I have windows and the ocean isn't that far away.


:shocked!:

titus
07-14-2004, 03:12 PM
Hello,

LMAO Doug that was funny, first thing you see after clicking on page 3 having read all the jelousy comments on Brad.

Anyway, central AC would not keep the tank temperature low for some applications. The excess heat generated by the system (ie lights, pumps, etc) will raise the tank above the ambient temperature.

Titus

whaase
07-14-2004, 11:16 PM
Hello,

LMAO Doug that was funny, first thing you see after clicking on page 3 having read all the jelousy comments on Brad.

Anyway, central AC would not keep the tank temperature low for some applications. The excess heat generated by the system (ie lights, pumps, etc) will raise the tank above the ambient temperature.

Titus

Would you then run the chiller year round?

Walter

Delphinus
07-15-2004, 12:03 AM
I have windows and the ocean isn't that far away. Almost always a cool breeze going by.

:cry:

Ditto.

...

Brad, I take it you found a source for the fuses?

Where did you pick up the chiller? I remember you said it at some point, but heck if I can remember WHAT you said.

Aquattro
07-15-2004, 01:06 AM
Tony, I found the fuses at a local electronics specialty shop. Went thru 5 of them before I figured out the problem.
I got the chiller from J&L. So far, the tank sits between 80.5 and 81.5 all day every day. My evaporation is cut from 5g/day to about 5g per 4 days.

titus
07-15-2004, 03:01 AM
Hello Walter,

Well you will be feeding the chiller probably with a pressure rated pump as a return path to the display tank. In the winter the chiller shouldn't be working at all unless the thermostat is not functioning.

Titus

whaase
07-15-2004, 03:07 AM
Hello Walter,

Well you will be feeding the chiller probably with a pressure rated pump as a return path to the display tank. In the winter the chiller shouldn't be working at all unless the thermostat is not functioning.

Titus

That's kind of what I was getting at with A/C. If you have your house at a constant temp all year (ie 72 degrees), you really should not need a chiller. But, some don't like a/c, I love it and always use it :biggrin:

Walter

titus
07-15-2004, 06:23 AM
Hello,

No because you can have a good ambient temperature but your lights and system is heating the water up too much. Mind you, during winter time I sometimes leave the house running at like 10 - 15 degrees inside so that's why I said no need for chiller then. And for most people the hotter summer days are indeed hotter than the winter days. Like in LA it'd be hot during the summer.

Titus

StirCrazy
07-15-2004, 12:47 PM
Tony, I found the fuses at a local electronics specialty shop. Went thru 5 of them before I figured out the problem.
I got the chiller from J&L.

nevermind thought you ment mini stab fuses

My evaporation is cut from 5g/day to about 5g per 4 days.

ok now you got my interest. couple questions, what is the max flow you can put through it, does J&L charge a crating cost to ship it? and what is the max ambient temp it is suposed to be in.. I am thinking of locating it in my crawl space.

Steve

Aquattro
07-15-2004, 02:23 PM
ok now you got my interest. couple questions, what is the max flow you can put through it, does J&L charge a crating cost to ship it? and what is the max ambient temp it is suposed to be in.. I am thinking of locating it in my crawl space.

Steve

Max flow is 600gph. I picked it up at J&L, but it's small and already in a box. I can't imagine there being a crating charge. Ambient temp can't go over 95F, but the problem seemed to be too small of confined area, not so much ambient temp. Almost like the discharge was too restricted.

StirCrazy
07-15-2004, 04:23 PM
ok now you got my interest. couple questions, what is the max flow you can put through it, does J&L charge a crating cost to ship it? and what is the max ambient temp it is suposed to be in.. I am thinking of locating it in my crawl space.

Steve

Max flow is 600gph. I picked it up at J&L, but it's small and already in a box. I can't imagine there being a crating charge. Ambient temp can't go over 95F, but the problem seemed to be too small of confined area, not so much ambient temp. Almost like the discharge was too restricted.

ahhh easy fix, just put a small fan under the table with it to ensure you have a flow of air over the coils. we have the same problem with one of our fridges on board here when we get to hot areas like Hawaii.

hmmm only 600gph, that sucks I was hoping to beable just to throw it inline with my return pump.

Steve

titus
07-15-2004, 04:53 PM
Hello,

You can tee off from your return line with a ball valve to feed these units to return to the sump in a circulation mode.

Titus

Aquattro
07-15-2004, 05:04 PM
I'd just buy a MAG 5 or 7 to run it. Steve, you have one of those already, don't you?

StirCrazy
07-16-2004, 11:46 PM
I'd just buy a MAG 5 or 7 to run it. Steve, you have one of those already, don't you?

ya I was just hoping to not have to add another pump or more holes in the wall. :mrgreen: besides I think that will be for my new Ca reactor I am going to make.

does yours have the Dual controller on it?

Steve

Aquattro
07-16-2004, 11:48 PM
does yours have the Dual controller on it?

Steve
Yes

LostMind
07-25-2004, 08:21 PM
Want a good laugh?

My chiller fuse blew too. Remember how I said I got a spare fuse with my chiller? WEll, after reading this thread, I went and put it somewhere safe, so I wouldn't lose it....

hahahaha, I cant find it! gah!

Went a couple canadian tires yesterday, neither has it in stock. I feel so dumb...

:redface:

Aquattro
07-25-2004, 08:48 PM
:biggrin:

reefhawk
07-25-2004, 11:22 PM
have you looked in the fridge for yer spare fuse? When i lose things i always look in the fridge first. It seems to get easier from there on. Besides there is always a beer in the fridge so who cares what you lost!

LostMind
07-25-2004, 11:32 PM
Sadly, I am outta beer.

I am not quite sure WHY the fuse blew. I have a fan blowing cooler air across the chiller to help get rid of the hot exhaust air from the compressor. The chiller unit actually is fairly cool - at least, its running at ambient room temp (78 on the hottest day, thanks to AC).

So, I am a little upset at the chiller, but more upset with myself. I must be getting alzheimers or something. I mean, I just put that spare fuse away like a week or two ago! How can I forget that?

Duhhh.

oh well, tank is holding steady at 82 with a couple fans on it. It'll last till I find a replacement fuse (or a box of them!).

StirCrazy
08-09-2004, 01:33 AM
ok so 4 new holes laiter (two in the wall and two in the floor) I now have the chiller set up in my crawlspace.

worked like a hot damn for the first week then I blew a fuse. I had a fan blowing on it so I just put a new fuse in and put the fan on hi so we will see how that works.

all togeather it took me a little over 1/2 a hour (including the time to drill) to have it up and running on a mag 5. so I beat Reef_raf time of 7 days :mrgreen: real easy set up and friendly controls. the only discouragaing thing so far is this fuse issue. I am not sure yet but I am thinking the pretty ABS enclosure might be 1/2 the problem with the over heating but I will see if the new fan setting works.

Steve

Aquattro
08-09-2004, 04:00 AM
Well, I'm down to my last of 10 fuses. I've sent a note to the manufacturer to ask what's up, but this is getting silly. I'm going out of town for a few days and I'd like to know my chiller is working while I'm gone.
It's sitting on a table beside a wide open window with a fan blowing on it. I can't get it any cooler than that. We'll see what pacific Coast says, but reliability is becoming an issue. :rolleyes:

kari
08-09-2004, 04:36 AM
Kind of strange with all the fuses blowing. Mine is sitting in a partially enclosed area under my tank without any fans other then the one built in. Haven't had any fuses blow yet. There's got to be some kind of a flaw in the later models.

Aquattro
08-09-2004, 04:53 AM
RC only has one thread (that I could find) on a fuse blowing in one of these. I'm not an electronics wiz, so anyone know why a 10A fuse would blow due to heat outside the unit? I'd love to put this thing on the floor, but there's no way with this problem.

Aquattro
08-09-2004, 05:02 AM
Kind of strange with all the fuses blowing. Mine is sitting in a partially enclosed area under my tank without any fans other then the one built in. Haven't had any fuses blow yet. There's got to be some kind of a flaw in the later models.

Kari, what type of fuse are you running in yours? The same 10A?

StirCrazy
08-09-2004, 06:11 AM
RC only has one thread (that I could find) on a fuse blowing in one of these. I'm not an electronics wiz, so anyone know why a 10A fuse would blow due to heat outside the unit?

as the temp gets hotter it becomes harder for the unit to remove the heat. so in simple terms the freon pressure on the discharge increases because there isn't enuf cooling medium. the causes the motor to work harder and *BAM* new fuse please.

the problem I have is why is something that is designed to cool water in a hot enviorment tripping so easaly? do you have to live in the artic for them to work right?

anyways as soon as they reply to your e-mail Brad let me know because if this is going to be a reocurring thing I might have to look into returning it and moving up to a different brand.

Steve

Aquattro
08-09-2004, 06:33 AM
Steve, I agree. As someone pointed out to me, we need a chiller in the first place due to elavated ambient temperature around the tank to begin with. A unit designed for this purpose should operate in that environment. If it doesn't, it's pretty much useless.

Aquattro
08-09-2004, 05:05 PM
So I spoke to Steve and Tim from Pacific Coast Imports and they had the following to say..

The fuses I'm blowing aren't factory fuses, so that may be the issue. They are sending me some of "their" fuses.
They also felt it could be a load problem, but the chiller is on it's own cicuit (15A) that previously powered 2 400W ballasts plus pumps. I can't see that being the issue.
Over heating; It seems that this unit blows when it gets too warm. However, it sits on top of an end table directly beside an open window with a 19" fan blowing across the room to circulate the air around the chiller. To increase the air circ around it, I'd have to hang it outside the window!!
Improper house grounding is another cause, they say. If my house isn't grounded properly, this could cause the problem.

I've run this thing for up to 7 days without a fuse blowing, and it seems the primary cause is heat (if the kids close the blinds or something, it blows). At this point I'm not sure where to go with this, as I'm certain that the fuses won't be the issue. The fuses I bought come from a reputable electronics supplier and I'm sure they are as good as any other fuse I can get from PCI. I'm not a fuse expert though... :rolleyes:

Overall, I'm not as happy as I was at the beginning of this thread, although PCI did state they have sold over 4000 of thse exact units without issue. I can't find any online reference to match my own experiences, so either A) my unit is defective, or B) My house wiring is defective.

Any electricians have any thoughts or diagnostic ideas to try?

LostMind
08-09-2004, 05:09 PM
I dont think the problem is related to just you Brad.

Steve and I are both having the same problem it seems?

My unit didn't blow a fuse until the temp in the room rose past 80 because I have my AC on all the time. So the one time the chiller really needed to be there, it blew a fuse.

Not happy with it either.

Aquattro
08-09-2004, 05:14 PM
Here is a pic of what I consider "adequate" ventilation around the unit! :razz: The fan is normally set to medium to provide enough air flow...

http://www.islandreef.ca/post/chill.jpg

StirCrazy
08-09-2004, 11:13 PM
Brad after seeing that picture I don't think your fan is doing anything to help you realy. maybe if you move the fan inbetween the tv stand and the chiller so it directly blows into the front of the chiller it might be a bit better. I just got home and mine hasn't blowen yet so I guess turning my fan on hi seams to have helped as today was hotter than the day it blew.

as for the problem I have only blowen 1 fuse but I am a bit irked that I cannot find replacments here in town so I am waiting to hear if we can upgrade the fuse holder to a standard size with out voiding the warenty.

my other question I have is as we discussed are the fuses undersized for this application. If Darren was here maybe he could help set this straight in my head but I have always been taugth to size a fuse 2X the MAX current of the unit. if this is a true guestimate then as "Pacific Coast Imports" stated it has a start up amprage of over 7 amps, should we not be using 15 amp fuses? maybe ask "Pacific Coast Imports" about this and see if any harm would come of using a 12 amp fuse in conjunction with upgrading the fuse holder to a standard size.

Steve

Aquattro
08-10-2004, 01:13 AM
Steve, the fan moves a lot of air around the corner of the room, which to me is more than enough. I didn't buy this with any instructions about installing a 19" fan 12 inches from the front of the chiller. I shouldn't have to use ANY fan to cool it, as far as I'm concerned.
John (J&L) mentioned they had this once with someone who had too ittle water flow thru the unit, but that doesn't seem to be my problem. I'll meausre the flow tonight.

kari
08-10-2004, 01:45 AM
Brad,
I'm using the original fuse, probably 10A. I'll take a look later and let you know if its anything other. For water circulation I'm running a Mag12. I wonder if the fan is smaller in the newer units since you noted earlier that yours was fairly quiet. I'll see if I can read the numbers on the fan as well.

Aquattro
08-10-2004, 01:46 AM
I'm only running a MAG 7, so I wonder if that's the reason??

StirCrazy
08-10-2004, 01:47 AM
to little water flow or to much?.. hmm that could be, kinda makes sence in a round about way.. I'll see what I can dig up in my refrigeration book on that..

what are you using for a pump? after checking my application I am thinking I am only putting 300gph through mine max

Steve

Aquattro
08-10-2004, 01:50 AM
John said a min of 400 was needed.

StirCrazy
08-10-2004, 01:56 AM
John said a min of 400 was needed.

hmm so mine shouldent be working then :confused:

Steve

Aquattro
08-10-2004, 02:06 AM
OK, what pump is everyone running on their PCI chillers? It looks like mine isn't pumping the minimum required. Only about 135gph right now. I'm going to see what I can do about that.

LostMind
08-10-2004, 04:32 AM
mag 7

pumpin at only 2' of head

Aquattro
08-10-2004, 04:51 AM
mag 7

pumpin at only 2' of head

How much plumbing have you got in the loop? I have about 20 ft. which includes some barb fittings. I'm going to replumb with all 3/4" when I get back from camping.

LostMind
08-10-2004, 05:08 AM
Hmmm.

3/4" ID tubing, going from the mag 7 in the sump to the chiller (about 2' run) then from the chiller to the UV unit (16-18" run) and then from the UV to the sump (2.5' run).

I really didnt think my last post thru very well :)

I should measure the output of that.

kari
08-11-2004, 04:20 AM
OK, what pump is everyone running on their PCI chillers? It looks like mine isn't pumping the minimum required. Only about 135gph right now. I'm going to see what I can do about that.

The reason I went with the Mag12 was due to my chiller output plumbing. I ran it up to the main tank with a SCWD thinging inline with two 3/4" outlets. To figure out the total head would be a good math puzzle and I don't have a flow meter. I used my best guess and aimed for the average required flow rate. The SCWD is switching every 7sec approx. if thats an indication of flow rate. I figure the flow is much greater then 135gph with my eyeball meter.

A change in water flow rate through the chiller would cause the chiller to change its on/off cycles right? Lower the flow, shorter the cyle. Brad, how long is your chiller running on for typically?

Aquattro
08-12-2004, 07:57 PM
how long is your chiller running on for typically?

Not sure, but PCI says it should run 10-15 min, then be off for the same. I think mine is running for 5-10 minutes per cycle, at most. I blew a fuse while away and cooked a couple of colonies. Not sure if they bleached or sloughed yet, but one was my large bubblegum acro. I'll have to pull it and smell for tissue :rolleyes:

LostMind
08-12-2004, 08:23 PM
Jeez man. That seriously blows - I get really****ed when I lose a frag...

Especially when I lose it to something dumb like a chiller I paid $799 for blowing a fuse.

Aquattro
08-12-2004, 09:46 PM
Well, the info for the unit does specify a minimum flow rate, and I haven't met that. If increasing the flow fixes the problem, I only have myself to blame, not the unit. I also notice that I get a lot of air building up in the lines, so that prolly doesn't help either.

Aquattro
08-12-2004, 11:57 PM
Well, changing the lines to 3/4" has doubled the flow, but that still doesn't meet the minimum requirements. I guess this thing needs a MAG 9.5 minimum, but prolly a 12 for best performance.

reefer_11
08-13-2004, 03:43 AM
Running a T3. Never blew one fuse. Even ran it for a while with the back panel 3" away from the wall.

Aquattro
08-13-2004, 03:46 AM
Reefer_11, any idea what you end flow rate is?

reefer_11
08-13-2004, 04:37 AM
in the neighborhood of 500GPH. max 600. if I am lucky and the stars are aligned right.

I have always meant to time the on-off cycle.. but I start to.. get bored waiting and forget about it.. ;)

StirCrazy
08-13-2004, 01:59 PM
mag 7

pumpin at only 2' of head

How much plumbing have you got in the loop? I have about 20 ft. which includes some barb fittings. I'm going to replumb with all 3/4" when I get back from camping.

we worked yours out to 10 feet, can be 20 feet the shutoff for a mag 7 is at 15 feet

what are you doing with the mag 9?

Steve

Aquattro
08-13-2004, 02:18 PM
we worked yours out to 10 feet, can be 20 feet the shutoff for a mag 7 is at 15 feet

what are you doing with the mag 9?

Steve

Mine is different now with the 3/4" plumbing. I don't have a MAG 9, I need a MAG 9 or better to get over 300gph thru the chiller.

StirCrazy
08-13-2004, 07:35 PM
we worked yours out to 10 feet, can be 20 feet the shutoff for a mag 7 is at 15 feet

what are you doing with the mag 9?

Steve

Mine is different now with the 3/4" plumbing. I don't have a MAG 9, I need a MAG 9 or better to get over 300gph thru the chiller.

I just had to buy a mag 12. that should give me close to 600gph after I finnish plumbing in my UV

Aquattro
08-13-2004, 07:54 PM
Well, unless I see a MAG 12 on sale for $20, the MAG 7 will have to do for now.

StirCrazy
08-13-2004, 11:01 PM
Well, unless I see a MAG 12 on sale for $20, the MAG 7 will have to do for now.

do you have another mag drive pump laying around? you could "T" them togeather at the input to raise the volume.

I picked up 10 fuses today so if you need on in a emergency you can come get one. only 10.00 ea :mrgreen: :wink:

Steve

Aquattro
08-14-2004, 12:06 AM
Nope, no spare pumps laying around. And I did blow another fuse this afternoon and no, I'm not giving you $10 for one! :razz:
This thing is quickly becoming a pain in the butt! I may, for now, swap the MAG 12 return pump with the 7. The tank can survive for now with 500gph return, and then I can use the 12 for the chiller. If that still doesn't do it, there will be a chiller for sale in the 'for sale' forum!!

StirCrazy
08-14-2004, 03:08 AM
who else has blowen fuses? I am curious to see if the "low flow" is common to all use fuse blowers. I had 200 gph flow and had to have a 12" fan on high 1 foot away to keep it from blowing more.

Brad had his in a open area with ambiant ventalation but with only 135 gph and blowing a fuse every time you looked at it wrong.

?? anyone else.

I narrowed my cycle down to 2 degrees and no problem but befor with the lower flow that would blow the fuse with in a day. if this is working good tomorow still I will try turning off the fans in the tank and then sunday I will try turning off the fan in the crawl space and see if I am going to blow a fuse still with the proper flow through the unit.

Steve

LostMind
08-14-2004, 04:22 AM
I dunno. I think my setup wasnt too shabby.

1" ID tubing, thru to the chiller and then out. total of about 6ish' of tubing plumbed to a mag7. Had two fans blowing cold air from my central AC across the back of the chiller. Blew a fuse.

Now I have moved the tank downstairs, added the UV filter to the loop (large 1" intake on it) and added about 3-5' more in tubing...

I never "measured" the flow, but it was decent, especially in the first setup.

StirCrazy
08-22-2004, 06:15 AM
ok so now it has been a week sence I upgraded the flow to the maximum level recomended and no fuses blowen. this is with a 2 degree set point and no fans on the tank. my tank has ~ 78.3 degree every time I look at it give or take 1/2 a degree.

Steve

props
08-27-2004, 06:28 PM
any updates brad?

Aquattro
08-27-2004, 09:53 PM
Yup, I turned the controller to 4 degree set point and put a fan in front of the unit. Haven't blown a fuse for a week or so. There's a thread on RC where some guys changed the size of the plumbing fittings going in and out, which increased the flow rate a lot, and prevented any fuses blowing. So, I can add a larger pump, or change the fittings. Although, I find that when I set the thing to a 2 dgree swing, my tank sat at 81.5 degrees F. Now with the 4 degree swing, my tank sits at 81.5 F. :rolleyes:

Willito
09-01-2004, 06:22 PM
After reading this thread, it seems as though in-line chillers can create many complications when they don't work properly. I am currently in the market for a chiller myself and from what I've seen so far, in-line is not the best way to go. There seems to be many variables that can go wrong.
I would pull hairs if I had spent $700 on a chiller and had to muck around with plumming, fuse, pump, etc. It just doesn't seem right.

From what I've gathered, drop-in coil chillers are quite portable and efficient
No plumming, pumps, or leaks to worry about. And for the price difference, I think it is well worth it.

Brad, Steve, if you had a choice, would you buy this product again?
If not, would you consider the drop-in coil? Why or why not?

- Will

Aquattro
09-01-2004, 07:33 PM
Brad, Steve, if you had a choice, would you buy this product again?
If not, would you consider the drop-in coil? Why or why not?

- Will

Even after the hassle, I would buy this unit again. I think the vendor could have been more helpful with pump recommendations and plumbing suggestions, but overall, this unit does keep my tank at a constant temp.

I like the remote install feature of this unit. The drop in might be nice, but it would need to sit within 6 ft of my sump, which wouldn't work very well for me.

StirCrazy
09-02-2004, 12:16 AM
Brad, Steve, if you had a choice, would you buy this product again?
If not, would you consider the drop-in coil? Why or why not?

- Will

a drop in chiller would have been the ideal but then you have a whole new mess of problems, like where do you put it? how do you make sure it gets proper ventalation if you put it in your stand? how do you get rid of the excess heat it throws into the same room that your tank is in?

like Brad stated it is a awsome little chiller even though it blows the ocasional fuse. but the recomendations for pumps or an actual data sheet of the # of feet of head the internals add to the system would have been helpfull.

Steve

Willito
09-02-2004, 03:48 PM
a drop in chiller would have been the ideal but then you have a whole new mess of problems, like where do you put it? how do you make sure it gets proper ventalation if you put it in your stand? how do you get rid of the excess heat it throws into the same room that your tank is in?

I guess that would be a problem if you had to put it under the stand. Something I didn't have to consider because my sump is in a seperate room. For most application, the 5-6ft of coil wouldn't be long enough to place anywhere else but next to the tank/sump. This would be only contribute more heat and defeat the purpose. I guess there is a place for the in-line after all.

titus
09-10-2004, 10:10 PM
Hello,

A update I guess. I just installed three of these Pacific Coast chillers inside cabinets under the display tanks. I have modified also the connections with 1" female adaptor to accomodate a larger flex hose connection. I could use a 1" MPT x Barb connector but I am using a 1" MPT x 3/4" Barb to mate with a 3/4" ID hose. So far the water turnover rate looks good and I haven't be made awared of any fuse blown out yet.

More updates with pictures of the systems to follow in about a week or two.

Titus

StirCrazy
09-10-2004, 11:03 PM
Hello,

A update I guess. I just installed three of these Pacific Coast chillers inside cabinets under the display tanks. I have modified also the connections with 1" female adaptor to accomodate a larger flex hose connection. I could use a 1" MPT x Barb connector but I am using a 1" MPT x 3/4" Barb to mate with a 3/4" ID hose. So far the water turnover rate looks good and I haven't be made awared of any fuse blown out yet.

More updates with pictures of the systems to follow in about a week or two.

Titus

Just changing the barb fittinbgs isn't going to increase your flow rate in them, I did some looking into mine when Brad mentiond that6 some one was changing the fittings to improve the flow through the chiller. the tubing inside is only so big and haveing a larger supply isn't going to increase the internal size but it will help for people that have to many 90's and such from there pump to the chiller and then back to the tank as going with a bigger tube will reduce the head pressure. so if you are using to small of a pump it will help (as in Brads case) or you can just buy a larger pump. I found the reason I blew the second fuse, I had a additive bag over the intake of my mag 12 so it was restricting the flow through the unit.

for anyone wondering I find the mag 12 runnign through my lifeguard UV (25 watt) then down into my chiller and back up to my tank is giving me 595 GPH using 3/4" black vinal tubing. this is only 5 gph under the max rating and I have had no fuses blow sence I upgraded to the mag 12.

Steve

titus
09-11-2004, 12:19 AM
Hello,

Well when I look at the openings inside it is still quite a bit bigger than the barb fittings they provide. And I mean quite a bit bigger.

Titus

Aquattro
09-11-2004, 01:40 AM
Titus, are you setting up the CL650 model? I'll tkae mine apart this wekend to see what it looks like.

StirCrazy
09-11-2004, 02:23 AM
Hello,

Well when I look at the openings inside it is still quite a bit bigger than the barb fittings they provide. And I mean quite a bit bigger.

Titus

hmm, I was led to believe the tube size was the smaller, Brad see how much you can see in yours and let me know.

Steve

robert
09-24-2004, 10:26 PM
I got 1/4HP one just a few days ago. Easy as a pie to install using supplied fittings using Mag 7 pump. 2-3 hours into operations it stopped working. Thanks to this thread my troubleshooting lasted only 2 sec. Yes, fuse was gone :cry: I changed the fuse and it died even faster this time. Another fuse went in (yes, I bought some spare when I got the chiller :biggrin: ) and 8” table fan was installed to blow air through the chiller. No more fuse problems.

Now, after first day of usage I changed the fittings using 1” coupling and ¾” barb to feed the chiller with ¾ ID tubing. I also no longer use Mag7, just too noisy to my taste. I installed Eheim 1260 instead, it has same flow rating as Mag 7, but way more silent.

No more fan in front of the chiller and no more blown fuses either over last 24 hours. BTW, my tank sits in smaller glass room that gets quite hot when MHs are on - 27deg. C at peak.

StirCrazy
09-24-2004, 11:31 PM
can you take a pic of what you changed in the fittings and what fittings you used please?

Steve

robert
09-25-2004, 12:37 AM
can you take a pic of what you changed in the fittings and what fittings you used please?

Steve

I used the fittings below for IN/OUT on the chiller just for now, using regular hose. The goal is to use just one 1" FPT x 3/4" PVC piping with Flex PVC used in Spa/Pools. I have to do 3/4" ID to match my pump.

http://www.canreef.com/photopost/data/500/330in_out.jpg

StirCrazy
09-25-2004, 01:47 AM
I am having a hard time picturing that connecting to the unit, would you be able to take a pic of that also please? I wouldn't mind upgrading my fittings but I need to visualize what everyone is doing so it will make sense. I am using 3/4" vinyl black tubing but it just slides over the 1/2" fittings that comes with the unit. maybe opening that up a little will allow me to turn off the fan.

Steve

titus
02-25-2005, 08:47 PM
Hello,

Brad have you solved this problem yet?

Titus

Aquattro
02-25-2005, 10:46 PM
Well, I went to bigger plumbing and changed the fuse holder to accept larger fuses. I've only blown 1 fuse in 4 months now...

Willow
02-25-2005, 11:57 PM
never heard of a chiller that takes a fuse.

Aquattro
02-26-2005, 12:29 AM
never heard of a chiller that takes a fuse.

AFAIK, they all take fuses....

Willow
02-26-2005, 12:39 AM
mine csl certainly doesn’t. none of the older style chillers ive seen do either, maybe the newer style ones with the built in controllers all do.

Aquattro
02-26-2005, 02:04 AM
wow, who knew?? :razz: This is the only chiller I've owned, so....

StirCrazy
02-26-2005, 08:07 PM
mine csl certainly doesn’t. none of the older style chillers ive seen do either, maybe the newer style ones with the built in controllers all do.

maybe if you look inside. If it doesen't have a fuse don't use it as it is a grow op hack job and not CSE aproved.

Steve

Willow
02-26-2005, 10:42 PM
mine csl certainly doesn’t. none of the older style chillers ive seen do either, maybe the newer style ones with the built in controllers all do.

If it doesen't have a fuse don't use it as it is a grow op hack job and not CSE aproved.

Steve

i have no idea what that means.

StirCrazy
02-27-2005, 12:53 AM
i have no idea what that means.

Most of the units I have seen that do not have a fuse are home made units for cooling water in hydroponics. the problem that arises if you don't have a fuse is say you have a max draw of 5 amps for your unit. now you get a partial short in the wiring and it starts drawing 13 amps. not enuf to trip your breaker but enuf to start the wiring that is rated for 5 amps to catch fire and possibly burn down your house.

with out the safety feature of a fuse or a thermal breaker you can not get it approved for electrical use in Canada or the US.

Steve

Justin
02-28-2005, 12:35 AM
I am not sure what you guys are doing that is giving you so many problems......

I bought a CL280 5 months ago and it has never blown a fuse yet.

I used 1" female adaptors on the unit with 1" slip x 3/4" fipt reducer bushings to 3/4" barb 90's, run off my main return pump.

It's sitting right beside my tank and my computer makes twice the heat the chiller does.

Never had a single problem since install.

StirCrazy
02-28-2005, 12:58 PM
I am not sure what you guys are doing that is giving you so many problems......
.

we already corrected it a long time ago. to little water flow through the chiller was the culprit.

Steve

StirCrazy
06-04-2005, 05:46 AM
ok so now that we had that heat wave I have blowen 3 fuses in 4or 5 days. cleaning the pump now to see if that helps.

Steve

StirCrazy
06-05-2005, 07:14 PM
just sent off an e-mail about the fuse popping and hopefully I will get some help there. Pacific coast importers are not the manufactures hopefully they will give me the name of them so I can talk to them directly as they state they will do in there warenty policy.

Steve

Aquattro
06-05-2005, 07:50 PM
Steve, have you looked at expandig the size of the intake/output fittings to allow greater flow? This was described in one of my threads on RC...

Tangman
06-05-2005, 08:13 PM
Hey Steve , don't bother E-mailling them just give them a call with the 1-800 number on the chiller . They are VERY helpful people

Aquattro
06-05-2005, 08:23 PM
I didn't find them helpful at all, really. They insisted on blaming my setup for the fuses, nothing else.
For the most part, most complaints of this happening have been resolved with more flow through the chiller.

Tangman
06-05-2005, 08:25 PM
Well , I did :smile:

Aquattro
06-05-2005, 08:32 PM
Well , I did :smile:

to be fair, most people report the same as you. I guess after blowing 15 fuses, and not getting anything from them, I just gave up.

StirCrazy
06-06-2005, 03:24 AM
Well , I did :smile:

well what was your problem and how was it fixed?

Steve

StirCrazy
06-06-2005, 03:25 AM
wow I already got a e-mail asking more info about the set up and saying it has been sent to Tim and he is the one I should e-mail with the further info. fast at replying to e-mails anyways.

Steve

StirCrazy
06-06-2005, 03:26 AM
Steve, have you looked at expandig the size of the intake/output fittings to allow greater flow? This was described in one of my threads on RC...

do you have a link to that, seems unless you pay for premium service you can't do a search on RC now :rolleyes:

Steve

StirCrazy
06-06-2005, 03:27 AM
Hey Steve , don't bother E-mailling them just give them a call with the 1-800 number on the chiller . They are VERY helpful people

you have that number handy? it is dark under the house and a pain to go down there :mrgreen:

Steve

Tangman
06-10-2005, 01:04 PM
503-982-6700

One question though, how many GPH are you pumping at your outlet and do you know that you must also factor in less -100GPH for the chiller itself.
Also it is better to have the outlet dumping into the main tank rather than back into the sump.

IslandReefer
06-10-2005, 01:22 PM
Also it is better to have the outlet dumping into the main tank rather than back into the sump.

Hey Tango why?
with good flow through the sump/OF shouldn't it all be the same temp..ie good constant mix.If there is a bit of a temp differential I would want it in the sump not with my fish and corals, No?
Since ,on hot days (prolly most days) reef tanks are mostly heated by their lights, making the tank out flow hotter than the in flow....so shouldn't one cool this hotter water as it gets to the sump?
Thanks :smile:

StirCrazy
06-10-2005, 06:53 PM
503-982-6700

One question though, how many GPH are you pumping at your outlet and do you know that you must also factor in less -100GPH for the chiller itself.
Also it is better to have the outlet dumping into the main tank rather than back into the sump.

yup I know it is better to have it going to the main tank its self and if I have anymore problems I am going to try that one also.

Steve

Tangman
06-11-2005, 03:17 PM
OK :mrgreen:

christyf5
08-07-2005, 01:59 PM
So where does one get these fuses? The one and only one I had went last night :rolleyes: Typical as I'm in Van today and can't do anything about it.

Christy :)

Tangman
08-07-2005, 04:42 PM
Just give Pacific Coast a call , they will send you fuses for free.
But the reason you are blowing fuses is most probably ,you don't have your flow right ( GPH) . On my 120G ( the one I have for sale) I had problems until I "dialled in" the GPH, but once I did that , I have had no fuses blown for two years.
If you have a CL-650, the manual recomends 650GPH , and that is measured at the end of the pipe/ outlet where the water pours back into the main tank. I used the head loss calulator on RC. Also the GPH you are shooting for on the calulator must be 100GPH more than your target GPH , because that is about how many GPH the chiller will restrict the flow.
Also after a call to Pacific Coast about useing a CL-650 on my 250G new set up ( the CL-650 is only rated for up to a 180G , the reason for the call ) they told me , that after rescent testing they have found that their posted GPH's are a little low and a CL-650 will work best at about 800 GPH .
HOPE THIS INFO HELPS

StirCrazy
08-18-2005, 06:07 PM
Ok so I have finaly gone on a trip with no losses in my tank, chiller worked like a charm through the last two weeks of heat wave we had. My discussion with Pacificcoast didn't help in the problem as all they could tell me was put it on its own circut, don't use an extension cord, and other fuses are inferior to ours.

well there fuses were blowing as much as others, I am on an extension cord (be carful you have one the right size for the current you could be using) and I already had it on its own plug. none of the changes they recomended worked so in the end I found that during the summer I have to put my temp spread to 4 degrees instead of two. I have not blowen a fuse sence I changed the pull down to 4 degrees and that was through several 25 degree pluss days (about 2 weeks in a row)

the guys there are helpfull but they are just distrubitors and not the company that builds them so they can only help so much.

Christy while you are in vancouver go to some electronic stores and look there as they are hard as hell to find on the island. they are the smaller version of a 10A glass fuse.

Steve

christyf5
08-18-2005, 06:12 PM
I found the fuses here in Nanaimo :biggrin:

As well, I also only had problems when I attempted the 2 degree spread setting. I set it back to 4 degrees and haven't had a problem since. Frustrating since I want the chiller to hold at 79 degrees but don't want it to go down to 75 at night before the heater comes on :rolleyes:

reeferaddict
08-26-2005, 12:31 AM
You know.... for all it's worth.... I have my Coralife 1/6 keeping 210 gallons of water at a steady 79.5 during the day and 77.5 at night... (assisted somewhat by room AC)... I was really worried when I stuck 900 watts of light over the 135 that heat was going to be an issue... but I put a couple real good fans in the hood... and summer's almost over and I STILL have yet to see 80... No blown fuses... no hassles... happy inhabitants...

Aquattro
08-26-2005, 12:48 AM
As well, I also only had problems when I attempted the 2 degree spread setting. I set it back to 4 degrees and haven't had a problem since. Frustrating since I want the chiller to hold at 79 degrees but don't want it to go down to 75 at night before the heater comes on :rolleyes:

My unit keeps the temp stable at 4 degrees as well as it did at 2 degrees. I have still blown the occasional fuse, but I switched out the fuse holder to a standard unit and can buy fuses at the gas station if I have to.

Aquattro
09-03-2005, 11:31 PM
See?? I post in this stupid thread, and wham! Blow another fuse. This time I hit 93 F and lost 2 or three corals!! Yes, the nicest 2 or 3!!
@$@%$^#$%^% Chiller!!!

Willow
09-04-2005, 12:07 AM
dude sell that pos and get a better chiller!

Aquattro
09-04-2005, 01:45 AM
dude sell that pos and get a better chiller!

no sh*t!!! Also lost my last piece of my purple cap.

Chin_Lee
09-04-2005, 06:35 AM
are you guys cooling your tank only with a chiller or do you have a fan as well? I put my chiller on its own thermostat and my fan on another. Fan on <80 degress, chiller on <82 degress. Chiller has turned on only once this summer for me and yes I did have to replace a lot of water from my sump but it sure beats replacing fuses and all that fuss.

StirCrazy
09-04-2005, 03:52 PM
See?? I post in this stupid thread, and wham! Blow another fuse. This time I hit 93 F and lost 2 or three corals!! Yes, the nicest 2 or 3!!
@$@%$^#$%^% Chiller!!!

um.. when was this it hasn't been that hot has it?

StirCrazy
09-04-2005, 03:53 PM
are you guys cooling your tank only with a chiller or do you have a fan as well? I put my chiller on its own thermostat and my fan on another. Fan on <80 degress, chiller on <82 degress. Chiller has turned on only once this summer for me and yes I did have to replace a lot of water from my sump but it sure beats replacing fuses and all that fuss.

I am only using the chiller now and I am having no problems but I have a fan forcing extra air through the chiller which Brad doesen't. I wanted to turn off the fans so I wasn't evaporating 5 gal a day.

Steve

hawk
08-14-2006, 05:24 AM
I'm (was) considering one of these units. Is the basic problem with blown fuses, not enough flow?. With adequate flow are they reliable?

Also, using the sizing chart it recommends a 1/2hp for my water volume (450g). But that is with a 10 degree pull down. I could get by with a 5 degree pull down. Would the 1/4hp work, or would it be cycling on/off too fast?

Aquattro
08-14-2006, 05:41 AM
Since increasing the flow, I haven't blown another fuse (close to a year). Realistically, go for the bigger unit, I think the 1/4hp would be good for a max 180g. Anything bigger, spend the liitle extra for the extra power.

hawk
08-14-2006, 06:05 AM
Thanks for the quick reply. I tend to agree that bigger is probably better, but the cost is almost twice as much and the dual controller is not available. Which I think would be quite handy. Also the 10 degree pull down is twice as much as I would need. But on the other hand if the 1/4hp can't provide a 5 degree drop then bigger is my only choice. Any other recommendations for larger chillers?

fortheloveofcrabs
08-14-2006, 04:46 PM
I have a 1/10hp PC chiller that I got from J&L two months ago. I forget the model number, but apparently it's the latest generation. It's a single stage unit. The unit arrived, and I run it with a Mag 350 (or is it 450?) on a 55 gal - no sump. My tank was running in the high eighties now it stays at 80 (It turns on at 81, and drops it to 79). The thermometer in the unit seems pretty accurate once I set it up (it was reading two degress higher than my glass theomometer). Well, the Unit ran strong for about two weeks, and then one day the LCD started saying 122 degrees, the chiller constantly ran, but my tank was not losing any heat...

I called J&L and spoke to Jeff, he said that he'd get PC to gimme a call to trouble shoot the unit. They did (like half an hour later - speedy) and the tech on phone deemed the probe the problem. The shipped me a new probe. It arrived 3 days later...

I installed it (pretty simple) but the problem remained. I called Jeff back. J&L couldn't exhange the unit for me (even though less than 30 days old!) and I had to ship it to PC in the US. Well, $150.00 shipping charge and 5 days later, I get a call from PC, saying that the main board on the unit it messed up, they replaced it, and the unit was running fine now. I had the unit back 3 days later and it's been great since.

J&L appologized for all of this, and flipped the shipping bill. Jeff was a HUGH help, so thanks, I really appreciate it (if you read this board :))

Through all this though, I did lose 5 polyps on a 7 polyp frog spawn that I got 2 weeks earlier from AI (so it was like $90!) from heat. Poor little guy... He's comming back though.

I've never had a fuse blow on the unit. PC did say that non-functioning probes were pretty common on these units though. Over-all, for the money, I think it was a steal.

smellsfishy
08-15-2006, 07:49 PM
has anyone used an external temp controller on these chillers like a madusa or Ranco. To get better control I was thinking of putting the chiller and pump on the same controller so the pump isn't running all the time.

KarlK
08-27-2006, 01:57 PM
As a refrigeration mechanic, I think I may know what's going on with this fuse blowing. If you don't mind, I'll ask some questions.

1) What is your differential set at (2 or 4 deg)?

2) Are you blowing a fan directly onto the chiller?

3) How much flow do you have through your chiller (really)?

I think that what may be happening is the compressor is trying to start before the high and low side pressures have had time to equalize when the chiller shuts off. The little compressors they use on these chillers (the same as in window air conditioners) are not meant to start under load. If they are required to start under load, they just sit and hum until they either trip on their motor protector (if they have one) or blow the fuse.

You can check for this yourselves. When the chiller shuts off, listen to it closely. Put your ear right up to it. You should hear some hissing for a little while. Keep listening until it tries to start again. You'll hear a little click as the relay engages to start the compressor. After that, if the compressor doesn't start right away, you should hear it hum, then it will stop after a little while when the protector or the fuse cuts it out.

There is something avaliable to help this. They are called "hard start kits". I use them on compressors of this type that have a problem starting because of high starting load.

I mentioned the temperature differential because a larger differential will allow more off time for the comressor and more time for the pressures in the system to equalize.

If you blow a fan directly onto your chiller coil, it will also help to equalize pressures faster; As will having higher flow through the chiller.

I hope that this helps. I see that there have been no new posts since the 15th, so I assume no one has had problems or they are just sick of the units.

Let me know if this info helps you. Without actually seeing the units and hooking up some guages to them, it is hard to tell. I wouldn't mind knowing if this is the problem.

StirCrazy
08-27-2006, 03:59 PM
Hi Karl, sounds like this may be the problem. mine was blowing when I had it on the 2 degree setting. what I did was hook up a 1200 gph to it and I figure it is getting about 700. this helped during cooler weather but I ended up having to take the front filter off and hooking a big fan about 3 feet away to increase the air flow through the unit.

what is this hard start kit and can anyone put it in or do you have to break the freon system to do it?

Steve

KarlK
08-27-2006, 11:01 PM
I need to know what kind of compressor motor is in the chiller. If there is a wiring diagram I could tell you if it would work for you....

StirCrazy
08-28-2006, 12:45 AM
I need to know what kind of compressor motor is in the chiller. If there is a wiring diagram I could tell you if it would work for you....

I'll take some pics of Brads when we move his stuff.

Steve

KarlK
08-28-2006, 01:05 AM
I'll take some pics of Brads when we move his stuff.

Steve


I'll have to wait for that time, then. I couldn't find any schematics online.

:question: