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  #21  
Old 11-10-2015, 02:39 AM
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So for those who've asked questions and/or offered to help me out with this little project here's everything I'm dealing with:

1st Gen controller:

Front



Back:



Guts/Innards

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  #22  
Old 11-10-2015, 02:40 AM
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2nd Gen controller:

Front



back



Guts/Innards

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  #23  
Old 11-10-2015, 02:42 AM
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Pump. Connector from controller has 3 pins

front



back



sorry, no gut shots of the pump. I can get at the impeller but thats it. Pretty sure it'll all be encased in epoxy inside anyway...
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  #24  
Old 11-10-2015, 03:27 AM
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You already have the MW power supply rated at 24 VDC, 8.8 amps. That's roughly 211 watts. The photo you posted of the pump specs shows a max of 170 watts. Have you tried hooking the power supply directly to the pump? Should work if you wish to run it at full speed. Just need to confirm polarity of the leads. The 3rd wire is no doubt feedback to the controller & not needed if running at full bore without control circuitry.

If you're handy with a soldering iron & really liked the way the 1st gen controller worked, try replacing the electrolytic capacitors on the board, the firecracker cans. Quite often these fail & render the rest of the electronics useless. Sometimes you can see the failure in the form of bulging at the top of the can. Many an expensive electronic component has been trashed due to failure of a few cheap capacitors in the power supply. They're only a few $$s each & worth a try to see if it will resurrect the original controller.
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  #25  
Old 11-10-2015, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike31154 View Post
You already have the MW power supply rated at 24 VDC, 8.8 amps. That's roughly 211 watts. The photo you posted of the pump specs shows a max of 170 watts. Have you tried hooking the power supply directly to the pump? Should work if you wish to run it at full speed. Just need to confirm polarity of the leads. The 3rd wire is no doubt feedback to the controller & not needed if running at full bore without control circuitry.
Hey Mike, is there a way to figure out what the polarity is without damaging either the pump or power supply? Can I just plug 2 wires coming from the power supply to the different combinations possible and see which 2 work? Are the only 3 things that will happen be 1) the pump run backwards if the polarity is crossed, 2) not run at all or 3) run properly?

Or can I smoke something by just trial and error?
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  #26  
Old 11-10-2015, 06:29 PM
RDNanoGuy RDNanoGuy is offline
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You can't run a dc pump directly off a regular power supply. The controller actually switches the coils in the pump on and off very rapidly in a pattern to get the magnet in the middle to spin. Without the controller the motor will make about half a revolution and stop. It is more like an a/c motor in that respect.
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  #27  
Old 11-12-2015, 03:45 PM
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I wouldn't recommend a trial & error method of determining polarity for a motor. Not likely that anything bad would happen with 24 volts, but not worth the chance really. Try to determine polarity with your multimeter. As mentioned earlier, if the signal from the controller is some sort of pwm or pulse, an oscilloscope is the best way to detect that, but the multimeter should react by jumping off zero. If you have an old analog multimeter, you may be able to see the needle move. It will either jump in a positive direction or try to hit the stop at the left of the meter display.

I asked in an earlier post if you could determine whether the motor is a PMG (permanent magnet) DC motor. If it is, it should run on straight DC voltage no problem, this is how all the little 12vdc cooling fan motors work. The coil circuitry design of a PMG DC motor is such that the voltage is switched internally to keep the rotor moving. However, on a low cost product such as the Wavelines, it will be next to impossible to find out more details on the design. Even more established companies producing higher cost hardware are unlikely to be very free with their design information. Best of luck with this endeavour!
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Last edited by mike31154; 11-12-2015 at 03:50 PM.
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  #28  
Old 11-17-2015, 08:48 PM
Waveline Waveline is offline
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Please do not wire the power supply to the pump directly!

Send us your serial number and we will warranty the pump.
email: daniel@rlss.ca




THE WAVELINE PUMP CANNOT BE WIRED DIRECTLY TO A POWER SUPPLY AND BY PASS THE CONTROLLER. THE DRIVER IS IN THE CONTROLLER AND YOU CANNOT BY PASS THE DRIVER. IN ADDITION THE CONTROLLING SOFTWARE IS IN THE CONTROLLER, WITHOUT THE CONTROLLING SOFTWARE NOTHING WILL WORK.
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  #29  
Old 11-18-2015, 03:40 AM
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Will you warranty pumps that are two years old like this?
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  #30  
Old 11-18-2015, 05:52 AM
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I was considering a Waveline DC pump for my cube.

Suggestions on an alternate brand? Reef Octopus?
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