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  #11  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don.ald View Post
I like it, but shipping would be $20

Home Depot would be the best bet
I agree, Home depot or Rona is best, but they never seem to have true bulkheads.

You could also try getting a bulkhead from Mistking. They have distributors in Canada.

http://www.mistking.com/Premium-1-4-...-Bulkhead.html

If anyone knows where to find John Guest bulkheads in Canada, please let me know where.
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2012, 03:58 PM
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Try bartel and Gibson. They should have them
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  #13  
Old 11-16-2012, 04:03 PM
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Rick, I have 5g jugs with screw on lids that are threaded in the center for a JG fitting. Works great.
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  #14  
Old 11-16-2012, 09:55 PM
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Here are some pics on how I have mine setup.

This pic is my fresh RO/DI water on left and salt mix water on right.






Here it is using the john guest fitting into the pvc plumbing




After a bit of experience I've figured out you can thread john guest fittings into PVC with no modifications to either pvc or john guest fitting.




and a pic of the same unit you're looking to purchase.




Hope that explains a little more.
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  #15  
Old 11-16-2012, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molotov View Post
Here are some pics on how I have mine setup.
Pics help a lot thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Aquattro View Post
Rick, I have 5g jugs with screw on lids that are threaded in the center for a JG fitting. Works great.
Sounds simple
Thanks
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  #16  
Old 11-17-2012, 12:44 AM
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If you're willing to diy your own bracket you can save additional cash by getting a standard furnace humidifier valve. They're about $10 or so & should be available at most reno box stores.

As far as JG fittings & bulkheads, if you live in BC, Andrew Sheret is a good source, they have most of them & although they cost a tad more than you might find on line, they're local & a component in hand is sometimes better than waiting for the mailperson.

Here's a pic of the valve I'm talking about, I think it's a "Wait" brand. 10 bucks & a diy bracket or close to 40 for the fancy one you linked to with the bracket included:

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Last edited by mike31154; 11-17-2012 at 12:48 AM.
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  #17  
Old 11-17-2012, 04:17 PM
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Hey Mike,

Your the one that gave me the idea for the gravity feed. I liked the idea that you don't have to depend on electrical float switches sticking or pumps failing or what ever else.

I also paid about $10/float valve from BRS. At $10 per float I have no problem replacing them every year whether they need replacing or not.

So far this system has been 100% reliable for me.
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  #18  
Old 11-18-2012, 02:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by molotov View Post
Hey Mike,

Your the one that gave me the idea for the gravity feed. I liked the idea that you don't have to depend on electrical float switches sticking or pumps failing or what ever else.

I also paid about $10/float valve from BRS. At $10 per float I have no problem replacing them every year whether they need replacing or not.

So far this system has been 100% reliable for me.
Glad to hear it's working for you with no issues. May as well add that the photo I posted is fairly old. I actually shortened the float by one chamber & it still works fine. These humidifier valves are not sealed, they simply have a hollow bottom with 4 chambers, one of which I cut off because it's in my display & less intrusive when shortened. If you're using it in a sump & visual pollution is not an issue, then you don't need to do this, you'll get a little more leverage with all 4 chambers intact to ensure a good seal when the sump is topped off. I use the valve in a modified gravity setup where I pressurize a carboy to push the water to the display using an air pump, so it's unlikely for me to over top off. Gravity feed does have the potential to over top off, so it's a good idea to size your top off container so that it won't be a total disaster in the unlikely event the mechanical valve leaks.
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Last edited by mike31154; 11-18-2012 at 02:19 AM.
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