NOS-ICH anyone tried?

[Craigdillman]

^ yea agree

Honestly I think your beating around the bush if you want the ich gone you got to treat it properly if you don't mind having it then it is what it is, UV sterilizer isn't the answer I think would be a waste of money on that tank and I'm not even sure you would "see " any benifit from it

I think a lot of people are giving the same good advise

[smitas5]

Ok, I get it, the only other reason I was considering UV, was the algae on the glass, thought I'll keep it for algae if it does not help with the ich.

As for the ich, I have some logistic questions..

2 ways I was thinking to handle this if it gets any worse at all:
- move all fish to quarantine, treat with hypo 1.008 for a week or two, but don't move them back to the DT for another week, but start raising the salts and add some live rock I have cycling separately for the last 3 weeks on their own.. QT is small and keeping amonia away is a challenge.

- do same, except instead of hypo, treat with copper and then keep doing water changes till all copper gone before adding live rock..

Am I leaving any loopholes here for parasite to survive?

Fishes I have: maroon clown, yellow tang, mandarin, yellow stripe gobby. Even though I was told mandarin can not get ich, was thinking I would need to move him too?

And thansk again for all the advice..

[hillegom]

Most people keep the DT fallow for 8 weeks. Most strains of ick will be dead then. Any less, then you are gambling.
I would QT the mandarin as well. Ick also infects fishes gills where we do not see the parasites.
I don't do hypo, but I thought the lowest you could go was 1.009?
I do tank transfer. Once your DT is free of ick, you might consider this method for your incoming, usually one fish at a time.

[Craigdillman]

Originally Posted by smitas5

Ok, I get it, the only other reason I was considering UV, was the algae on the glass, thought I'll keep it for algae if it does not help with the ich.

As for the ich, I have some logistic questions..

2 ways I was thinking to handle this if it gets any worse at all:
- move all fish to quarantine, treat with hypo 1.008 for a week or two, but don't move them back to the DT for another week, but start raising the salts and add some live rock I have cycling separately for the last 3 weeks on their own.. QT is small and keeping amonia away is a challenge.

- do same, except instead of hypo, treat with copper and then keep doing water changes till all copper gone before adding live rock..

Am I leaving any loopholes here for parasite to survive?

Fishes I have: maroon clown, yellow tang, mandarin, yellow stripe gobby. Even though I was told mandarin can not get ich, was thinking I would need to move him too?




And thansk again for all the advice..

Ok man IMMA Help you out here

Both the hypo or copper will work but

- you need a month of hypo for it to be sure you get it 2 weeks isn't long enough
- copper is a shorter process than hypo and might be better to be quick for the mandarin cause thats gonna cause a problem

EITHER way you need to keep the DT fallow no fish for 8 weeks or all your work will go to waste, yes most concensious is that mandarins are mostly immune or less likely to get to ich BUT they can still be a carrier of it and it would suck to do all the work and waste the time

Have you looked up the TT method? For the price of that UV serializer u were talking about you can go on kijiji/canreef and get 2 used 20-30 gallon tanks 2 heaters 2 old crappy HOB filters and lids and do the TT method its only 14 days i think and after you just keep them in the tank for 6 more weeks and make sure the DT is fallow and your good to go

Sounds like you already have 1 QT tank and setup so all you need is 1 more used set up nothing fancy

OR last option is Grab a used tank (but bigger) and run a Copper in there if it was bigger than the ammonia is slower and you can do WC and run Prime and it should be ok

I know its a lot man i only trying to help you Cause i feel for you and went throughout the same process when i upgraded from my 30 to big tank over a year ago and got ich was in denial and finally came to terms and got my **** together and fixed it and now i won't go without QT every fish and dipping inspecting all my coral

[hillegom]

^^^

Smitas I would advise you to read this again:
http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/...ths-facts.html

[smitas5]

Thank you all.. Sorry I'm slow with this

Correct me if I'm wrong, but if I have 8 weeks to keep my DT idle, there is no advantage to do copper treatment right? I know it's faster, but I also read that copper and ammonia reducing treatments don't always work as nice?

I'm already looking for another QT and was thinking to run it full time in the basement for the future needs. By the way the one I have is less than 20G, suspect could be more like 10... so looking for 30 ish gallon one now, so could serve for treatment, also maybe could add some live rock there to cope with single fish during quarantine.. not too sure about the light needed, at the moment it's something from fresh water tank..

Thanks again for you help. I keep observe all the fish and they all look good for now, so I stay away and try to cause as little stress as I can.

[lpsreefer]

chloroquine phosphate is what I use for ich treatment.
Nice acticle on it
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/2/fish