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  #21  
Old 11-22-2011, 03:50 PM
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Yeap pretty sure bottom is backwards as Steve said. Also keep in mind you have no auto shut off so you'll have to manually turn off the SUPPLY water when not in use.
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  #22  
Old 11-22-2011, 06:10 PM
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Ok I will try again. I was just going off what StirCrazy said but maybe I messed up his instructions.

Quote:
Originally Posted by StirCrazy View Post

take your red line you just removed from #6 and plug it into #1
This means the red inlet hose is going through 1?

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  #23  
Old 11-22-2011, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -=James=- View Post
Ok I will try again. I was just going off what StirCrazy said but maybe I messed up his instructions.
remember I can read the sides from your picture.. so adjust 1 and 6 acordingly. which ever says in, make that your water from the tap to the unit. which ever says out make that to the inlet of your membrain (#7)

Steve
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  #24  
Old 11-22-2011, 10:02 PM
Buckeye Field Supply Buckeye Field Supply is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StirCrazy View Post
double check on the bottom three filters that your red line is going to a port that says "in" if there is no "in" on either end then you have to open them and see what the filters are as mentioned.
Steve
Very good point! The top of the lids to the housings below the bracket will be labeled "in" or "out"

Russ
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  #25  
Old 11-24-2011, 05:24 AM
-=James=- -=James=- is offline
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Sorry for the late response. I still cant figure it out for the life of me.

Lets make it easy. Please tell me which numbers should connect and ill try not to screw that up. I indicated red arrows of what it says on the unit.

Thanks again guys!


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  #26  
Old 11-24-2011, 06:51 AM
Buckeye Field Supply Buckeye Field Supply is offline
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Assuming that your red arrows on the housing lids indicate which one says "in" and which one says "out":

First (left most) housing should contain a sediment filter
Middle housing should be another sediment or a carbon block
Third housing (right most) should be empty or have a carbon block

Tap water comes in to 2 and comes out 8.
Connect 8 to 3 on the RO membrane housing.
Connect 7 on the RO membrane housing to 4 on the DI housing
Rotate the DI housing so 9 is at "12 o'clock" position rather than "4 o'clock."
Water coming out of 9 will be your final DI water for use in your tank.
Remove the top, white "taste and odor filter" from your system. It does more harm than good in this position.
Connect 6 to the un-numbered port on the black-handled flow restrictor.
Connect 1 on the flow restrictor to a drain.

Russ

Last edited by Buckeye Field Supply; 11-24-2011 at 07:06 AM.
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  #27  
Old 11-24-2011, 07:17 AM
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Here you go Russ. Thanks for all the help! He offered me to call him for a step by step guide.

Correct, the red arrows indicate IN and OUT
From left to right: Sediments 5 Micron, GAC, CCB 1 Micron


Last edited by -=James=-; 11-24-2011 at 07:20 AM.
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  #28  
Old 11-24-2011, 07:57 AM
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Success! Thanks so much Russ.

I am filling the 180 now

BTW anyone know where to get a cheap TDS meter? Home Depot doesnt have them.
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  #29  
Old 11-24-2011, 08:18 AM
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Got mine from BRS.

That's some real dedication btw... problem solving at 2am so you can start filling your tank. Respect!
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  #30  
Old 11-24-2011, 08:58 AM
Buckeye Field Supply Buckeye Field Supply is offline
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Yeow. Someone sold you a less than ideal set of prefiltes. Assuming you are on city water w/o chloramies, a good combo is a 1 micron sediment filter and a 0.5 micron carbon block. GAC prefilters really have no place in the high capacity systems we use in this hobby. Really no need for a third prefilter, but you could use a second sediment filter or a second carbon block if you'd like.
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