The Glassware Nano build - Page 3

argan · #21 10-08-2009, 04:31 PM

I would see if you can get a bigger mug from an A&W, they have ones that are almost 2 litres, like 12" high.

Ephraim · #22 10-08-2009, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sphelps

Have to say that that isn't the smartest thing I've read today. I love the ingenuity of your build but I can't see this being a real reliable and stable system. Perhaps one would be better to stick with corals that aren't in the $300 range

lol yeah i hear ya, it's definately going to be running for a while before i put those babies into the mix. But at the end of the day it will be better for them as they will be more accessible for feedings than where they are now (24" down tucked in a corner in my reef tank)

BlueAbyss · #23 10-08-2009, 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by soapy

I would love to learn more about how to set up these lights with ballasts also. If anyone comes across any DIY articles that explain more about the power setups please post them.

Wiring a ballast and fixture is the easy part, but finding a fixture to get the same effect is proving to be more difficult. Fitting a 70W bulb in a headlamp assembly may prove to be the only option for someone that wants to do this, but that's going to require some fabrication. Would be nice to see someone try it though...

Zoaelite · #24 10-08-2009, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ephraim

lol yeah i hear ya, it's definately going to be running for a while before i put those babies into the mix. But at the end of the day it will be better for them as they will be more accessible for feedings than where they are now (24" down tucked in a corner in my reef tank)

Smaller tank means more target feeding means a happier Rhizo, considering the sump and Marks experience I think he should be good to go

.

soapy · #25 10-08-2009, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BlueAbyss

Wiring a ballast and fixture is the easy part, but finding a fixture to get the same effect is proving to be more difficult. Fitting a 70W bulb in a headlamp assembly may prove to be the only option for someone that wants to do this, but that's going to require some fabrication. Would be nice to see someone try it though...

So would you use the ballasts that came out of the car and then run them with a computer power supply like the guy in the article does. Or would you run the bulbs straight off some other kind of ballast?

BlueAbyss · #26 10-09-2009, 08:29 PM

I have 70W ballasts that run regular 70W DE metal halide bulbs... check out my tank thread, I don't want to muck up Ephraim's thread (sorry for the hijack

). I have to mention, though, that this thread has made me get the move on with my own multitank setup, thanks for the kick in the pants Ephraim

Ephraim · #27 10-10-2009, 12:08 AM

took a shot under the stand today, it's getting pretty busy with pipe down there. looks like a mess, but it make sense, i swear!

Myka · #28 10-10-2009, 12:24 AM

Very...interesting!

I'm interested to see how this works out for you!

soapy · #29 10-10-2009, 01:58 AM

Nice! You probably already know this: gate valves would give you a lot more precise control over your flow but unfortunately they come at a lot higher price. But since you don't have herbies flow control may not be too much of an issue. I have a herbie set up with a ball valve and it tends to creep a lot more than a gate valve. Are you finding any issues with that on the system yet? With your set up maybe it doesn't matter at all?

Ephraim · #30 01-12-2010, 10:47 PM

Well, this upcoming nano contest has renewed my interest in this build. i haven't done anything with this since October. Life kinda got in the way and no progress was made. But as of last night.... SALT HAS BEEN ADDED! We now have a salt water aquarium. Live rock will be going in this weekend. Lighting will be put within the next 3 weeks.

Quote:

Nice! You probably already know this: gate valves would give you a lot more precise control over your flow but unfortunately they come at a lot higher price. But since you don't have herbies flow control may not be too much of an issue. I have a herbie set up with a ball valve and it tends to creep a lot more than a gate valve. Are you finding any issues with that on the system yet? With your set up maybe it doesn't matter at all?

With the space restrictions, gate valves were not a viable option with this build. I prefer to use them when I can, due to ease of adjustment. Not using them shouldnt create any difficulties however, I have found the biggest issues with balls getting clogged over time is when they are 75% or more closed. Before that point, they tend to be consistent IMO, and all the ones in this system are within that range(except one)