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  #21  
Old 12-10-2012, 03:11 PM
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What do you mean, you can't keep it at a stable level?
A sump is generally designed so the return pump area is the only place where the water level fluctuates due to water evaporation. In that case, the fluctuating levels are what triggers the ATO and tops it up with freshwater to maintain appropriate water level for purposes of correct salinity and pump operation.

Or is your water level fluctuating abnormally from the evaporation rate of the water? If that's the case, you might have to post some pictures or at least a drawing to indicate how your system is connected together, because that shouldn't be happening.
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  #22  
Old 12-10-2012, 03:53 PM
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Cheryl Send me a pm with your number i will call you tonight and we can sort this out for you.

don't worry about long distance
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  #23  
Old 12-10-2012, 05:14 PM
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If possible a pic or two may help a ton
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  #24  
Old 12-10-2012, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subman View Post
If possible a pic or two may help a ton
Agreed. Not sure why/how you have multiple sumps/containers...
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  #25  
Old 12-10-2012, 10:09 PM
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This is her sump set up (photo's taken from her build thread):






I think there's restriction in the skimmer container to the sump. The water from the tank is going into the skimmer container faster than it can go into the sump. OR something there anyway.
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  #26  
Old 12-10-2012, 10:28 PM
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In the picture it looks like the 2 1" drain lines join at a tee and then go into the skimmer tub. This will reduce the drain capacity to that of a single 1" line. I don't know how much you want to fiddle with it but could you have one drain line go directly into the skimmer tub and then have the other drain line go directly into the first chamber of the glass sump? I think this would help with the fluctuating return section.
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  #27  
Old 12-10-2012, 10:36 PM
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That is a no brainer what u want if u can go bigger with the bulk head or if u have 2 1" drums that are goi g to the sump then elavate the skimmer portion and that will allow for a faster drain
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  #28  
Old 12-10-2012, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by intarsiabox View Post
In the picture it looks like the 2 1" drain lines join at a tee and then go into the skimmer tub. This will reduce the drain capacity to that of a single 1" line. I don't know how much you want to fiddle with it but could you have one drain line go directly into the skimmer tub and then have the other drain line go directly into the first chamber of the glass sump? I think this would help with the fluctuating return section.
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  #29  
Old 12-10-2012, 11:02 PM
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I still don't fully understand where going on. Is the return section being emptied by the pump then a rush of water fills it again? I haven't read your build so I'm not really sure what's happening on the top side of the pipes.

I was assuming the two drain lines one would be the drain and the other is an emergency. If that's the case then the single line from the container to the sump should suffice as long as it's far enough under the water to pull full siphon. I'm just guessing though. I think one of the easiest things would be to restrict your return line so both drains can keep up.
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  #30  
Old 12-11-2012, 12:14 AM
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A 1" drain will dump approximately approximately 600gph into your sump. If you have two of these going into a skimmer section then you are adding around 1200gph into your sump and only pumping out around 700gph at most back into your display. If this is the case then you would need to out hate valves on your drains to limit the amount of water draining to your sump and to match the flow of the return pump to your DT.

If your pump is draining your sump too fast then you would need to put a ball/gate valve on the exit side of your return pump to limit the amour of water being removed from your sump to match the flow rate of the drain line.

Hope that makes sense,
Dunc

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