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#11
12-19-2014, 08:12 PM
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Just because it's high efficent doesn't mean it's direct vent. Do you have 2 pipes off each appliance both going outside?
Personally id frame the sump off with a door and a good seal so you don't have to deal with the panel and a garenteented electrical night mare in a short time
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC 
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#14
12-20-2014, 04:29 AM
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Quote:
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC
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#16
12-20-2014, 03:42 PM
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Not that I am an expert but I haven't had any issues with my sump being utilized in my mechanical room. It sounds like my setup is identical to what you are describing, but I don't have my electrical panel in there which is the only difference. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions. I find it a very convenient arrangement for doing any maintenance on the tank.
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#17
12-20-2014, 04:12 PM
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^Ductwork rusting not the end of the world some circuitry on your furnace rusting out- costs you a service call and maybe some labour. Any leaks in your return air duct and it sucks in super humid air over time could rust out your heat exchanger and blow products of combustion throughout your house.
The panel is a HUGE issue The breakers in the panel rust and seize in position and can't trip properly you have an overload on a circuit-boom house fire. This summer my capacitor on my AC went and it tripped the 100 amp breaker if that breaker was seized in place I would need to go buy a tent because my house is now ashes. Insurance could possibly chalk it up to negligence Now no house no stuff. This is of course based on you getting yourself and family out alive. I usually cycle all my breakers including the main 1-2 tines a year just to make sure that doesn't happen. I could go on and on about why it's a bad idea to have a large open top body of saltwater close to the mechanical for your house. There are bandaid fixes but best way is to seal off the sump room so it's tech. In a separate room, but st the end of the day I don't live there. Wreck Ive replied to your PM.
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC
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#18
12-20-2014, 04:37 PM
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What kind of humidity are we talking here in order for a house to burn down? In fact it seems like I could benefit from a little added humidity in the house. I certainly don't want to get involved with any kind of advice that could lead to a potential loss of somebody's home, but for me, it seems to be fine.
I do have a bathroom fan that through an access panel is technically the same room, so I run that once in a while to ventilate.
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#19
12-20-2014, 05:23 PM
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A lot.
But your mechanical room door isn't opened regularly either so with a sump in there humidity will build up fast. Over time it could seize your breakers. Call an electrical company and ask if there is any potential danger putting a large open top body of water with water movement and evaporation in close proximity to your panel. But your panel isn't in that room so it doesn't really apply to you.
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250G DD LED SPS R.I.P. 180G LED SPS 80"x36". 300G custom build Owner of Mountain Ridge Heating and Gas Class A gas fitter, HVAC Last edited by e46er; 12-20-2014 at 05:26 PM.
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